How to remove pitting from the edge??

Hi

I'am starting to restore this old Boker King Cutter that was covered with rust. I can manage the top part of the blade but I notice some heavy pitting on the edge. How do I go about to remove this, should I tape the spine and go at it on a 1k stone or is a 4k enough grit??? Is tape even needed??
Or are theire other means to fix this.

Thanks
Jacques
Laval, Quebec

Please click to enlarge.

Had a blade in that condition... a few laps on the 4K with slurry cleaned it up good...

You will have to decide if you use the tape, keep the tape in place trough to polishing (and always use tape for future honing) or remove the tape after the pitting is gone, reset the bevel and polish as usual.

Your choice

From the pic, because that is all I can go by.... You are going to have to find good steel otherwise the edge will just crumble away, oh it might hold, for one or two shaves, but it will eventually crumble if the pitting is bad...
I would try a 1k stone with a taped spine and establish a bevel, then you are going to have to look at the edge carefully to see if there is still pitting in the bevel (use magnification)...... The bevel needs to be clean bright steel there can be no rough dark spots in there.... this is JMHO and some experience in restoring a few razors :rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

From the pic, because that is all I can go by.... You are going to have to find good steel otherwise the edge will just crumble away, oh it might hold, for one or two shaves, but it will eventually crumble if the pitting is bad...
I would try a 1k stone with a taped spine and establish a bevel, then you are going to have to look at the edge carefully to see if there is still pitting in the bevel (use magnification)...... The bevel needs to be clean bright steel there can be no rough dark spots in there.... this is JMHO and some experience in restoring a few razors :rolleyes:

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+1
I would use a diamond hone to get the bevel back in your case, then 1k, 4k, 8k...

The general principle is what Glen said, you'll have to remove metal until you get a clean bevel.

When you go to put a shine on the blade with mass run the wheel along length of the bevel real careful like. Think about how to do it safely first.

That would help, but I agree with everyone else that honing it would.

This is a case where a microscope is invaluable. What looks like an intact, pit free edge can still look horrendous under the scope. It allows you to stay with the lower grit hones longer until you've removed all of the crud metal. It saves a lot of time and frustration. It also allows you to be confident that you have removed all the crud and no more.