buffing the handles out

Hey guys, I bought a 7 day set of shavesi (I think) razors, I think in the end I got a real good deal. I did post some pics here etc. and got the good advice of not changing the handles or tip shapes on them but cleaning up and then repairing the box.

I took another look at them, they are in great shape, no pitting or staining on first exam, looks like they'll polish up very nicely. the weird thing though, the handles on one side, the side facing the back of the box, are all still shiny (black synthetic of some sort) but on the front side dull. reminds me of vulcanite pipe stems. however it has been many years since I buffed out my pipe stems and I can't remember what I used, I seem to remember tripoli but wanted to check here first.

so how do I buff these out? I did a little of that maas on a rag, after three applications the 1.5" center portion I was testing it on did look shinier, but I think that chucking a buffing wheel in my drill press or even getting the buffer back on its stand would be a much better time investment. thanks guys

Red
PS
I know this info must be on here somewhere, but I just can't seem to get what I'm looking for out of the searches.

The problem with using tripoli or other compounds is that they tend to color the plastic. There are special compounds and wheels for such purposes, but I think you'd be best sticking with maas and elbow grease.

Sounds like they were in a display where they got sunlight on one side.

Be very, VERY careful with putting a buffer wheel in a drill press to polish razors (blades or scales).
Several people here have had nasty accidents or almost-accidents with buffer wheels. Buffer wheels are posessed by evil demons, biding their time until you let your attention drop for 1 second.

Then they will cause the buffer wheel to grab the razor with a cotton loop and fling it away very hard.
In your case, the buffer wheel would conveniently be at chest or neck height.
'Man decapitated in a freak accident'

If you use a drill press, use the lowest RPM setting possible.
Joe Chandler lost the tip of one of his fingers when a buffer wheel grabbed a razor and flung it around against his hands.
Wayne D would have had to change his name to 'Wendy' if not for the heavy leather apron.
And one guy in Gary's shop had his thumb ripped out by a buffer wheel.

Sorry for being so dramatic, but you cannot be too careful when working with a buffer wheel.
A buffer wheel in a drill press is just screaming 'Darwin Award'

I can always use the 1750 rpm motor that I had setup as my buffer before for my pipes, the stand is out there shoved out of the way in a corner. so which compound would I use in that case? I know there was something I used on the vulcanite pipe stems that did not discolor but got a great deep black shine back. only thing I still have left from back then is a cake of wax I used for the pipe bowls.

not too dramatic bruno, I know how fast machines can make short work. I knew a guy who had his hand caught in a table saw, and my friend who just passed away almost lost his arm to a lathe when the flannel he was wearing brushed against a slow turning rifle barrel that would rough enough to act like velcro. luckily he reached and hit the power before his arm went around the shaft more than once.

Red

I used chromium oxide in grease.
They usually sell it in hardware stores in the shape of small bricks. Costs 10$ for a brick. The grit size of mine is around 15 micrometer.

You hold the brick against the wheel as it is rotating. The heat melts the grease and loads the wheel with compound. The you work your blade to the wheel, and re-charge as necessary.

Other compounds can be used as well, but this chromium oxide is the only thing I've really used.
I once tried dovo red strop paste on the idea that it would polish as well.
And it did... it's just pretty gooy, and as the disc started spinning, the paste was catapulted in my face.

Buffing scales is really easy. No need to use power tools. Get yourself some Cape Cod Polishing Cloths. About 10 minutes is all you need to make them like new.

I've had good success with this:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ck-scales.html

I've kept at it at with a little more work at the high stages, I can get results close to kenrup. Close, but keep in mind he's near professional.

Mark

A few minutes with the higher grits micro mesh pads is all I need.