Printable View
Actually, it's not duct tape, I use electrical tape to tape the spine when I hone because it's more resistant to water and slurry, so I don't have to swap it often.
But, there's a downturn, by having very strong glue, when I remove it, the spine catches its goo and I find it hard to remove it.
Can I use some kind of chemical stuff like acetone or something without ruining the blade? Even alcohol doesn't remove the goo completely!
Lighter fluid. Works every time you need to get rid of sticky crap like that.
Hi, 91% isopropyl alcohol on a clean towel works but requires rubbing.
Monte
Goo Gone is your best friend :-D
I use it to cheat the university by buying used books and taking the stickers off :-D it will do the job fantantasitcally
Acetone should do it. I believe I've tried that before. I just wouldn't use it near goldwash or that frost etching. Also, I'd keep it away from scales, especially celluloid which would melt.
On the other hand I usually just get the tape residue off with heat and friction. If you rub it between your thumb and the razor it comes off quickly. Just make sure you get it all.
I second the lighter fluid. It removes glue and that's the he and the she of it.
Lots of solutions here, as always ;)
Thanks everybody.
Just to recap, there are many solvents that will remove adhesives left from tape but depending on what the surface is made from, I'd normally recommend starting with the least aggressive and work my way up if necessary. Plain old mineral spirits (paint/varnish thinner) works well too, is slightly less volatile than some of the others mentioned and are less likely to damage the surface you are trying to clean. I've been caught with my pants down when it comes to Goo Gone, it dulled the surface of a glossy plastic door on my cloths dryer when I tried to remove some tape residue.... Mineral spirits didn't touch the surface at all, well at least not for the short period of time it took to get the rest of the tape off.
Regards
Christian
I agree with Kap 0 on the mineral spirits, it's a great, tame solvent, naphtha (lighter fluid) works well too, but evaporates much faster. Acetone is also a great solvent, but must be watched around plastics. Turpentine will work well too and has a nifty aroma. Strong soap and hot water might work as well. So long as the tape adhesive residue is new and not old and hardened, it should be fairly painless to remove.
good luck,
I've sucessfully used, of all things, WD-40 on a paper towel or rag to get off most sticky stuff. I used to work as a bike mechanic, and we used this to clean bikes all the time, including the rim tape and handle bar tape residue. Parenthetically, I hear that WD-40 is mostly kerosene, and I remember we used that on the farm all the time to clean stuff.
I also second lighter fluid.
Mark
Don't Repeat DON"T use any of the strong chemicals near your scales...just a hint acetone and anything with naphtha will eat scales, trust me that's how we pop inlays to re-do them..... I just dissolved some old DD scales to pop the brass inlays this week.....
WD-40 will take the goo right off the spine and I have never had it hurt any of the scales........ Vintage or custom
sixgun,
Do you mean the vapors of those chemicals will harm the scales or is it necessary to get liquids on the scales to cause harm? And are you referring to all the chemicals I mentioned?
:hmmm:
Acetone for sure is the worst. I would not even open that on my bench near any razor I did not want to dissolve the scales on...
The rest are also harmful but to a lesser degree, keep in mind they are your razors you can use anything you want...... My recommendation is WD-40 or a like product, that is the safest I have found that does the job quickly.... I have not tried that on a custom razor with a oil finish such as Beeswax/Linseed so be careful there it might penetrate that finish....
Eh...
Maybe a funny question,
but why not use tape that doesn't leave glue on the razor?
I never had any problem with the cheap insulation tape I use.
What little goo stays on the razor is easily wiped of with one swipe of my thumb.
Just wondering,
Bart.
Hi Bart,Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart
I don't have any other kind of tape that sticks to the blade so well, so I use electrical tape. The other tape has less glue, but after a few rounds on the hone it starts to get wet and "glueless".
Hi!
I would try a microfiber cloth dry or with alcool. WD40 works well generally, Orange Glow also.
As for acetone, it was the main ingredient in nail polish remover. The primary ingredient in nail polish is nitrocellulose (cellulose nitrate) it's used to make celluloid. I would not try it.
Wikipedia : Celluloid is the name of a class of compounds created from nitrocellulose and camphor,...
Good luck !
McKie
If 99% alcohol does not work then try lighter fluid (naphtha) or WD40.
Naphtha will not harm celluloid scales or any other kind of plastic scales including bakelite, or wooden scales treated with acrylic finish (CA), however it will harm wooden scales treated with oil based finish.
Acetone will destroy all of the above.
None will harm steel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detach
+1!!! Goo Gone is the best, as long as you love the fresh smell of citrus in the morning. The only thing I can not answer to is how it effects the finish of the scales.
cp
WD 40 works well, not surprising seeing it's probably 90% Mineral spirits.... great solvent, frees up stuck stuff but makes a lousy lubricant.
The weird part is that I've used the aerosol WD40 which is mostly mineral spirits but the gallon can of the stuff is more like an oil, at least the can we had back in the gunshop some 20 years ago.... then again, it might have been 20 years old by that time and most of the solvents had evaporated... I've not cracked open a new can in many many years.
Christian
OK let's try a more logical approach here guys, besides the "possible" damage to the scales. Do you really want rags or tissue soaked in highly flammable solvents, and the danger of the vapors in your house?????
Again use what ever you want!!!!!
It is always a good idea to check the ingredients printed on the container of any solvent (hopefully it is the correct container), and know what effect it will have on your target material. It is also a good idea to know exactly what your target material is made of (or what it’s coated with).
Remember anything can be potentially dangerous… luckily; with solid information most of us will use responsibly.
+1 on the WD-40. It does the job just fine. It also is great for lighting coal-fired forges. ;)
The cheapest aftershve my son wont wear......!!! It does stink....
i use it to remove permanent marker ink when honing as well...
Mark.....