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How do you polish the brass inlay (it LOOKS brass) on scales without damaging or dulling the scales themselves? I have a Hess "Forty Four" that has "Forty Four" inlaid in the handle that is tarnished heavily. I'd probably just use a Dremel buffing wheel and some brass polish if I thought it wouldn't hurt the scales. Also, can you recommend a source for re-pinning supplies? Thanks!!
I would highly recommend against using a Dremel on the scales....
If the brass or silver is really tarnished then some 1500-2000 grit sandpaper can be used to clean that up with minimal damage to the scales...
After the 2000 grit, some MAAS or Flitz on a smooth cotton rag, you don't want a washcloth or towel like material, the loops can catch on the inlays....A few times polishing by hand will bring the scales back to like new condition.... Don't forget to clean and polish the inside of the scales as best as possible too....
BTW those Hess #44's are one smooth shaving SS razor......
In the Wiki itself, are a few different links for pinning supplies....
I've been polishing all my celluloid or plastic scales with brass or silver inlays with a polishing/buffing wheel on the lowest 5000 rpm my Dremel can give and the shine is amazing. I did this on a Hans Otto, J.A Henckels, DD,.. and all the plain plastic plastic scales I work on.
I jut use some Maas which I leave to dry on the inlays and I have some plastic polish that I use for the scales.
The important thing here is to use those polishing wheels (not the felt ones!) and low rpm. The felt ones can and will burn the scales if you're not careful.
Works like a charm and I never had 1 plastic scale or any inlay destroyed.
Glen's system works too if you don't own a Dremel.
Thanks guys. That brings up a couple more questions: Who sells MAAS and Flitz, and also, once I do get the inlays polished, how can I protect the inlaid part from further oxidation? So are those inlays usually a solid brass or something and not just plated? I was a little worried about buffing through the plating if it was in fact plated, but since it is made in Germany rather than China, I guess it's safe to assume it's a solid piece, huh?!
They are solid, but there are very, very, thin.... almost a foil...
Also keep in mind that Max is an experienced restorer and he knows how to use a Dremel and what to look for, as to the inlays... Anytime I give advice I will always give the safest way possible, not necessarily the best way possible...
Some Walmarts carry MAAS, and most any auto parts place will have both or at least Flitz....
try walgreens for MAAS.
the polishing wheels work, but keep them slow and moving around or they will burn the scales. hand rub on the scales is the safe and time tested. you will appreciate the work and finished product. live and learn.
vgod
Also be aware that some emblems look like foil but are, in actuality, metalic paint.
+1 on what Dan says and I agree 100% with Glen. The safest way when you're not experienced is by hand. No power tools. The best way to learn and feel confident in what you're doing is first to try on anything that really hasn't any value to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by floppyshoes
A dremel or any power tool can destroy your work in a a split second if you're not careful. Using the wrong add-on or wrong polish can be fatal too. Always wear some kind of protective gear for your eyes and fingers.
Well, I got some Flitz and a cloth buffing wheel for my Dremel today and that inlay shined up beautifully and much easier than I was expecting----I'm thrilled with how that shine came back! I also got some 1500 and 2000 grit paper and am working on getting some scratches out of the rest of the scales. I can see I'll probably need to go higher in grit, though, because it buffs up, but not to the "wet-look" sheen that it had before. As always, suggestions are appreciated! Although I've done a lot of woodworking, I haven't worked with plastics too much, so this is sort of uncharted waters for me. How high of grit do you go before buffing? Thanks Max and Glen!
I use the micro mesh pads and go all the way up to 12000 grit. I then finish with the buffing wheel. My local hobby store sells them. They range from 3000. 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 grit.