Thread: One piece scale advice.

Hello guy's,
I need some help. I've got a beautful piece of ebony here & it's going on my Friodur 7/8". I wany to make a one piece scale but my research has led me to two methods.
Basically,
Method 1. Cut the slot as a wedge, tapering from the tang down to the point.
Method 2. Cut a straight slot & let the razor's tang force the scales into position.
I'm going to mock one up with some softwood, but input from the experienced is what i need.
Does anyone know how the custom makers tackle it?
It's the first step before the shaping of the scales, so the ebony remains a lump of wood 'till you kind gents can advise me!
Thanks in advance

I cut a straight slot. It's easier and makes very little difference structurally. While it is true that the wood will encounter less splitting force if the slot is tapered, I don't believe it's enough force to split normal wood (things like palm, bamboo, balsa... may split, but they are touchy to begin with)

Thanks Dan,
I guess that there is limited experience on this, so you answer is appreciated!
Still not sure what to do yet though. Maybe the mock up will help, but as different grains behave differently, i'm not so sure.
Cheers

One thing to keep in mind is the potential for movement. Wood will almost always distort in one way or another when resawn. A dense wood like ebony takes a long time to stabilize, exposing the internal structure will make a difference- hopefully not much, or in a bad way.

Aesthetically I prefer a tapered cut rather than single width groove. You need a certain width at the toe to allow the blade to seat properly but I still try to keep that tight and neat. The quickest and easiest way though is a single kerf of a thick circular saw blade

Thanks kevint,
Although i'm a carpenter, my clients rarely use exotic woods. It useful to get your perspective. I assumed that due to the denseness of the timber & tight grain it would be fairly stable. I hadn't even thought of the possibility it may move. Having no experience with it i'm not sure what it's going to do. A tapered cut would reduce the stress placed on the scales. I'm not necassarily after the quickest option, as i want it to look right.
Cheers

Is it a waxed block? A moisture meter can be helpful I hear. I don't have one. The exotic stuff i get (very small quantities) is usually when i see an extra nifty piece, or it's really cheap. Bought with no specific purpose so i let them lay around with some of the wax scraped off occasionally, so that within a couple years they are cleaned off and ready to really equalize.

If you make a one piece from two pieces you have easier options to make corrections before gluing the halves together.

I have one of Dan's Double arrows with one piece scales. Listen to his advice, the scales are beautful.

Thanks Ookla. Any chance of some photo's? It'd really help.
The block was wax dipped at one end kevint. It's approx 7" x 1"1/4 x 1/2, so i'm hoping it's well & truly seasoned, & it's acclimatising in my house now.

oh yeah, that already is blank size already

. I had the thought that you could keep it in place by clamping it tight against the tang or tang like object and let it rest and stabilize like that. If it's cold there like here you'll have the heat on so that will help, but keep both ends coated 'til you're sure it wont split... well that's the wood geek way (if you are able to weigh it accurately you can tell by stable weight the piece is ok)

I screwed up my first rip so rather than risk another set I did the two piece and have kinda got stuck there. It is a pain in the rear. what attracted me was the way I could close up the back and toe. I'll try to finish up number 3 sometime, this was 2.

I wish I could make a tapered bevel with just two cuts afterall were talking one piece

Thanks very much for posting that! It's so much easier to actually see it. Looks good. Nice & tight to the blade that way.