What Needs To Be In My Workshop?

Ok guys, I have decided to jump into the slightly murky and quite possibly messy world of straight razor restoration. (Damn this forum and its inspirational value!).:nono:

I have noticed that there have been threads that have discussed this topic, for example: ‘Shop Tools’; however, many of these threads focus on a certain area -- in the case of ‘Shop Tools‘: power tools.

I am interested to know if anybody can give a more detailed list of what I would need to undertake complete restoration projects. I would like some thoughts on the basic tools and the more advanced equipment. I’m currently building a small workshop anyway -- dust extraction is a pain in the neck -- so any advice on equipment is much appreciated.

If this question has already been asked I apologies; any links to the threads, however, would be appreciated.

I’ll post a picture of the workshop once it is finished -- hopefully furnished with some of the equipment yet to be suggested!

I’m based in the UK; however, I’m sure I could ship from abroad if necessary.

I look forward to hearing your suggestions,
Paddington.

P.s. I originally registered with this forum to ask about categorize of collections; now look what you have me posting!:gaah:

Have you looked at Bill Ellis' restoration cd yet? I hear it is a good resource

Yeah, Bill Ellis' CD is really fantastic. It arrived the other day and I have already been through it about twice.

Though it does have some good ideas for tools, I am looking to get a more general sense of what people use. Just to give me something to think about!

Honestly, what else will the shop be used for, that is much more the determining factor in what you will need than what you may want to razor work. The tools I use for razors are mostly used in my hobby room rather than the shop.

In general I suggest one of These to guys who are setting up a shop. Why? no reason other than they just seem cool to me.

This is the main power tool in my shop, in addition to cuttin gI also have sanding disks, and a drill chuck/ router attachment for it. It can handle most of my general woodowwrking needs.

Neither of the above, however, is really useful for razor restoration, but if you convince your wife thats why you need them we won't tell :D

The one piece of equipment I would suggest is a GOOD dust mask - the kind with quality filters and three-point harnesses - not those flimsy paper Kleenexes generally passed as dust masks. The exotic woods we generally use for scales are a lot of the times toxic, and VERY detrimental to your respiratory health.

I just bought this, as an example: Dust Respirator - Lee Valley Tools

Before I would buy any scroll saw, band saw, or stationary sander, this, above all, would be my first purchase.

Mark

I second the dust mask as a requirement. I use one of the two canister masks.

I almost hesitate to recommend the following piece of equipment that I find very useful because if not used correctly, hands down it's one of the most dangerous pieces of power equipment that can be used when buffing blades. The low price blows me away too:

VARIABLE SPEED GRINDER/BUFFER

DO NOT buy the above unless you're also going to buy and use a pair of these:

WOODCARVER'S SAFETY GLOVES

The biggest thing about the above grinder (take off the grinding wheel/s and add buffing wheels and it's a buffer) is the fact that it's variable speed and can be used in the 1750 rpm range. Most inexpensive grinders are not variable and run at 3500 rpm which is pretty much useless for working on thin tempered steel. A 1750 rpm Baldor buffer would set you back 5 times the cost.

Seriously though, you could have the arms of Popeye or the Hulk and have the reflexes of a Praying Mantis (Thanks JMS for posting those Praying Mantis vids!;)) and a buffing wheel at 1750 can rip a blade out of your hands or into your hands before you even blink if you touch it to the wrong area of the wheel or more often it's when you think you're in the safe zone and you're not (buffing is all about cutting and polishing and where you place the blade on the wheel in relation to which of those two activities you're trying to accomplish).

So.....awesome tool, but not for those who won't employ safety or use it carefully.

Chris L

Hi guys, thanks for the responses.

Wildtim: I am going to be using the workshop predominantly for making violins and perhaps the odd guitar. I will also be using it for fly trying; however, this takes up little to no space and does not need any equipment except a good vice. Though the equipment that you posted does look great -- the work table is fantastic! -- I doubt that I would be able to find much of an application for it in the razor line.

I’m really looking to find out what the restorers on here use. Are there any favorite tools amongst you all that you couldn’t live without?

Milton Man: As I mentioned in my post I’m putting in one hell of a dust extraction system. Though, as you pointed out, a mask is essential. Luckily I already have quite a few good ones! I have some experience of working with wood (though limited). However, upon completion of the workshop I hope I can really start to get involved.

I might even have a go at making my own blades. Now that would be fun!:D

Chris L: Wow, what a beast. I used to have an old grinder; however, it got pinched a couple of years ago. Like you say, the price is just right! Not sure what the shipping to the UK would be + sorting out the plugs, etc. Good call anyway! Thanks for the link to the gloves, they look really nice. Perfect for what I do.

I’m thinking of trying to find someone in the UK who restores razors and asking if I can go and have a chat/watch them sometime. You never know, there might be someone who could give me a bit of hands on help.:hmmm:

Paddington.

Sorry, I wouldn't have suggested that grinder if I knew you were in the UK. You've mentioned to two obstacles that come to mind for getting it to you and operating it.

There are quite a few members in the UK that I'm sure would be happy to introduce you to the world of restoration.

Chris L

Don’t worry about it Chris. Like I said it was a great call; I’m sure that if I decide to purchase a grinder I will be able to find one in the UK -- though the price may be a little higher. Beats getting electrocuted and my family having to pay for both a funeral and import taxes!:rofl2:

Do you think that anyone would let me visit them and see how they restore razors? I thought it was all a bit secretive; people not wanting to reveal their techniques, etc. Heh, maybe that’s just my imagination! People seem to love helping each other out here -- it’s a great little community. (Little is the wrong word).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paddington

Do you think that anyone would let me visit them and see how they restore razors? I thought it was all a bit secretive; people not wanting to reveal their techniques, etc. Heh, maybe that’s just my imagination! People seem to love helping each other out here -- it’s a great little community. (Little is the wrong word).

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Check out this section on get togethers... i think you will be amazed how open and friendly everyone here can be. Many "secrets" are shared openly to be passed on ...

Get Togethers and Meetings - Straight Razor Place Forums

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paddington

Don’t worry about it Chris. Like I said it was a great call; I’m sure that if I decide to purchase a grinder I will be able to find one in the UK -- though the price may be a little higher. Beats getting electrocuted and my family having to pay for both a funeral and import taxes!:rofl2:

Do you think that anyone would let me visit them and see how they restore razors? I thought it was all a bit secretive; people not wanting to reveal their techniques, etc. Heh, maybe that’s just my imagination! People seem to love helping each other out here -- it’s a great little community. (Little is the wrong word).

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You're spot on, Paddington about our group here being very generous with sharing knowledge. I've heard it said that it's less common among the Bladesmith community in general for Bladesmiths to share their "secrets" (although there is a wealth of info on the few blade forums I've joined so maybe that is only partly true?).

Chris L

Yeah, I have been reading through this forum and the contributions are amazing.

I'm looking forward to any future meets. I'll make every effort to go; luckily I tend to have plenty of free time. :).

Anyway, any UK restorers who would let me watch you work for a day or two, pm me! Lol, I'm not really expecting any replies to this, but it's worth a shot!

In the mean time, keep posting ideas for the workshop. It's a good size so anything goes.

Paddington.

Just a quick update:

I picked up a grinder on ebay for only £49. I'll upload a pic as soon as I get it. I'm thinking of making a jig to hold the blade while I work with it -- does anybody do this? I could really do with some ideas.

Paddington.

Paddy,

I can't argue with the desire to pursue this. It's an horrible disease that may well consume you. There is no cure.

But, start with hand tools if you can. Learn, say polishing, by making some polishing sticks and wrapping them with various grits of paper/abrasives. This principle applies to all the processes involved. If you don't understand the basic movements and how to achieve them by hand first, a power tool will simply cause mistakes to occur quicker and most often, in a larger way that is harder to recover from.

Jigs are helpful in the beginning, but eventually you'll find yourself doing without one, especially on concave surfaces. PM sent.

Mike

In reality: if you want to get started, you only need what you already have. Basically, if you have sandpaper for sanding metal (aluminium oxide or silicon carbide) that's enough.
Have a look at my handsanding howto for a detailed explanation about how to restore a blade using nothing but sandpaper and elbow grease.

For making scales: if you have a file and some sandpaper, that's all you need (except for perhaps a saw, and the wood itself).
Drilling the pivot holes is most easily done with a drill press, but a dremel or even a plain rgular drill will do.

Do a search for threads started by me in the Gallery. All those restorations started off with very badly damaged razors, and were finished, using nothing more than sandpaper and common hand tools.
The only electric thing I used was my dremel, for drilling the holes and for polishing the blade at the end.

Today I have some more equipment and I am starting to use power tools, but only because now I know what I need vs what would be nice.
Another reason why I also advise people to start off by using hand tools is that it lowers the necessary investment to get started. Many people start with restoration, but not all follow through. As with all hobbies, there is a significant chance you'll lose interest.

I've had that in the past a couple of times, where I start with something, think I'll like it, buy good equipment and then lose interest sometime later. I am not saying that this necessarily applies to you, but I've fallen into this trap a couple of times in the past, which is why I purposely started out on restoration by hand.

And another factor is that if you do a couple by hand, you'll learn a lot about the materials you're working with.

EDIT: I just realized that Mike is giving the same advice. I should have read the whole thread before answering :). Anyway, learning to do things by hand is a valuable learning experience.

hi, where in the uk are you? +1 on Bruno's comments, this hobby needn't be expensive. the difficult bit is deciding between what you want and what you need.......!!!! If i can help you at all, pm me. there's loads of help on this forum.
Oh, welcome.......!
best wishes,

mark....