Question on Mirror Finishing

I am still new at restoring razors and each time I start doing one thing better I find I need help in other areas. I noticed Alex put some pics up of a Wostenholm IXL with a beautiful mirror finish. Even though I sand up to 2000 grit and use my dremel with turtle waz and dremel metal polisha dn a jeweler's polish I always have minor scratches. Since I am trying to be perfect I want to know the best method for achieving a mirror finish. All I have is a dremel and I cant put a bench grinder in my apartment so that is not an option. I have also found that my battery powered dremel runs 5000 rpms at the lowest setting. Can anyone please guide me ont he best way to achive a mirror finish, because the closest I have ever gotten could not even begin to be sescribed as a true mirror finish.
Thanks
Trey

The way to achieve a mirror finish is to make absolutely sure that all the scratches from the previous grit are gone before you move on to the next. That's about all I can say. It doesn't matter if you use a $10 dremel or a thousand dollar buffer and wheels, the same applies.

If you're seeing scratches, it's a low grit abrasive that caused it. Scratches from 2000 grit should seem more like haze or cloudiness.

No matter what– if you stop at 2000 grit and all previous scratches are erased, it still will not be a mirror polish. A mirror can only be achieved with buffing compounds (and MAYBE micromesh sandpaper although I've never tried). It's possible to do it with a dremel, but very difficult. Search for threads on polishing compounds and mirror polishing and you'll get answers as to what compounds to use when. Personally I don't like mirror finished blades that much– they show EVERY mark once they are put into use and as soon as you scratch it once... WHOOPS! Anyway, I hardly ever try for a true mirror. I'd rather have a nice high grit, uniform finish.

You know what's funny is a lot of people think Jeweler's rouge is for steel, it's not. You can use Black Emery, Green Stainless and Blue All Purpose Polish. They're made by Enkay. These are all commercial buffing compounds. I've taken a piece of Aluminum and buffed it out with some Jeweler's rouge, and it pretty much had a mirror finish, like chrome. I use mine on a Buffer/Grinder that has adjustable speed. It goes down to 2000 rpm. Over 3000 rpm is really not recommended for buffing. I know you can, and if you stay away from the edge, your ok. Working with razors and a dremmel takes some skill.

+1 with the other guys. You must remove all scratches first, before buffing with wet/dry sanding.

I gotta +1 with Alex give me a properly done 2000 grit then lightly buffed finish all day long for my personal razors....
There is nothing more irritating than putting a mirror on a beautiful blade and then yep there is that first scratch from the hones ARGH !!!!!:rant:

The only way I've found for a true mirror finish is with careful sanding, then buffing. I'll take mine to about 9 micron, then buff. I rarely use the grey compound, because it's liable to scratch what you're trying to polish. I go from the grinder to white, then green, then pink no-scratch compound. A true mirror finish is difficult to achieve, but IMO should be the goal, particularly with razors. Smoother is sharper, and will also help prevent rust on carbon steel razors. If you're still seeing scratches, you need to go back to a coarser grit to remove them, then work your way back up the grit progression. On an object like a razor, a mirror isn't too difficult to maintain. I probably wouldn't use it on a hunting knife. I'd probably go with a hand-rubbed finish on that, but on a razor, I pretty much always go for a mirror. Anything less seems unfinished.

@Joe Ch.: I remember me on one of the best mirrors I ever seen on one of your razors. You have my highest respect for this, because I´m still not managed this for mines. But I will try it.
Again and again and again... :D