In need of Advice!

I have runinto a situation an dI dont know what to do. I have a Marshes and Shepherd Pond works frameback that I was going to put new wood scales on. I mad some scales out of purpleheart that the person requested, Now, when I went to pin the blade into the scals I pinned the toe end first and then attached the blade. BEfore I pinned the swivel end I noticed the blade was going to scrub. This was a first for me so I looked carefully at the blade. I noticed the the blade is rotated on the tang slightly. I do not know if it were made this way, but the sclaes I took off of it showed signs where the blade had scrubbed. Now I figure I can put a stop pin in and add another brass wedge, but I am not sure of the best approach. CAn anyone tell me how to make this work because its a nice blade and the person I have made it for wanted something collectable and usable. I need to know how to proceed.
Thanks,
Trey

is it an option to drill the pin hole? You could do a slightly larger pin hole at a very slight angle bringing the blade back in line... then use a thicker pin to fit the hole. No expertise...just an idea:shrug:

Maybe sleeve/drill the pivot hole out oversize to 3/32" so that it is perpendicular to the blade plane? Then use 3/32" X 0.14 brass tubing over the 1/16" pin?

How much wider would the wedge spacer have to be for clearance "as is"?

To do it as is I would probably have to make the wedge a total of 1/8 to 3/16. THe bend is not really that oticable to the eye, it just shows up when you try to set it into the scales for pinning. I am going to try the extra wedges and then see how that does. If not, I may try to drill the pin oversized and at an angle but I am going to have to get additional pins to do it. Thanks for the advice though and if the spacers dont look right I will consider drilling. I will try to post pics after I get thewedges finished.
Thanks,
Trey

or you could add an extra thrust washer (0-wide pounded flat) on one side to bring it back to closing centered.

It sounds as if you are doing the "Sheffield Twist", Many of the older Sheffield blades are not quite straight, some have the tang the does not have an even grind so they want to drift to one side...

If you look in the Wiki you are going to find some tricks in there that work for this stuff...

Using adjustable pins from Microfasteners.com is almost a must when it comes to building scales they allow you to put the razor and the scales together multiple times with ease, to check fit and function..

You need to re-think the wedge or re-think the use of a center pin, measure the tang thickness, I am going to guess it at between 3/16 and 1/4 inches, start your wedge thickness at 3/16 if so, then "wedge" it to about 1/32 over 1.5 inches long then just slide the wedge forward and backward to where the blade looks to miss everything and cut or sand to fit... That is the way to do it right.. If that doesn't do the trick then you might have to put a 3rd pin in to re-flex the scales.... I rarely use a third pin for flex mostly just for looks but those old Sheffield's can wear ya out.... You always assume that if you build the scales straight, the razor will work, and it just isn't so... Many times the tang is not straight ! ! nor even a straight slant \ / it will look like this ! / this is most likely where the problem is... Now sometimes you can actually find a blade that is truly twisted in relation to the tang, that's a lot of fun :gaah:

Welcome to the wonderful world of restore,,,;)

Doing your own restores is one thing, you take the time and pick out the juicy fruit, the razor that everything is "right" on.... Taking on a restore from somebody else, that in general has no idea what to even look for on the blade and razor, is another animal all together...

Usually the pin hole in the old Sheffield’s has so much slop that messing with the pins will not fix your centering problem. The centering is regulated by how the tang is bearing on the inside faces of the scales. Here is thread about centering,

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ng-uneven.html

Using a real wedge shape also helps when you have those thick tapered tangs.

Charlie

Thanks to everyone for the advice. As it turns out, if I ad to more wedges the total withwill be 3/16ths and the blade should still close fine. I a still thinking about adding a third pin, but this will be at the discretion of the buyer. Thanks for all your help, I will remember these things the next time I run into this situation.
Trey

Here are the pics of the finished product. This is an old Marshes and Shepherd frameback 6/8 with Barber's notch. I hope you will take a look and let me know your thoughts. Tee blade doesn't scrub anymore and the Purpleheart wood is much different than I expected. I ended up adding extra spacers and nylon washers on the hing pin and the added two blace wedges both about 1/16 wide and it ended up working. The shave is is incredible, though I have come to expect this with these Sheffield blades. I am selling it to a newbie form work and I I hope he is happy with it. Since the blade is at least 157 years old, I think he will say he is using a peice of history. I am also giving him the origninal bone scales if he ever wants a pro form here to fix it to original and put it in a collection. Let me know if you think he will like it.
Thanks for all the helpful comments. There are some great people on this site.
Trey

By the way, there will be a little finish work on the wedges that is not shown here. THis was the pre-polish finish onthe wedges.
Trey

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Let me know if you think he will like it.

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I think he'll like it. I do.