Tablesaw or bandsaw?

I currently only have a coping saw and a mitre saw. Because of this I have only purchased 1/8 scale material. I would like to be a little more flexible with my wood choices, which means I need to be able to cut larger pieces.

Should I get a tablesaw or a bandsaw for this? I was initially thinking of a tablesaw, since it is pretty frickin' useful, but recently I have been thinking about a bandsaw because it would do the job plus allow me to potentially do some scroll type work.

Any suggestions either way?

bandsaw


Thats my opinion and I'm sticking to it.

Charlie

With a bandsaw you get much more versatility. Tablesaw is good for cabinets and boxes… long straight cuts. I get much more use from my bandsaw. Have fun with it and watch your fingers. :tu

I have them all. While you cant make cabinets with a band saw, you cant cut scales on a table saw. You could resaw stock to slabs with a thin kerf blade on a table saw you cannot cut the curves or do the detail work. Each tool has its place, for resawing stock and doing the curve cuts for scales, a band saw is what you need. But be for warned, good tools are not cheap. I have a 1.5 horse Jet 14 inch band saw, you can run 1/8 to 3/4 inch blades for different work, although I would not recommend going over a half inch blade on that unit. With the thin 1/8 blade and the right guides, you can do near scroll saw work. A scroll saw shines for those super tight turns and you cannot do inside cuts with a band saw.

A table saw is good for big work. I just made a 33x12x12 inch red oak humidor this evening. Why the strange size? It is made to fit inside a horizontal filing cabinet. The Spanish cedar liner will get resawn to 1/4 inch slabs on the band saw and planed to uniformity. The right tool for the right job makes life so much easier.

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Originally Posted by cannonfodder

While you cant make cabinets with a band saw, you cant cut scales on a table saw.

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Yup. That about sums it up!

Hmmmmm tuff one, I have a lot of tools for Gunsmithing, all of which are big full size ones, that are scary as hell for working on little tiny razors :D

Buy the band saw first, IMHO, but a table saw sure makes life easy for ripping scale blanks, with a thin kerf blade as stated above....
There is a company, Proxxon (sp*) that makes mini power tools that I have been really considering just for this work, check out their stuff if this is only for small work...

Also the most useful tool for me when making scales, is actually a 4x36 belt sander, and they are cheap as all get out....

Want to save real money, check out the pawn shops first, especially right now there is an over abundance of tools in them....You can find high quality stuff for less than half price, and usually all they need is some cleaning and new blades....

Hey cannon, post pics of that humidor if you don't mind. I like the filing cabinet idea. I want to turn one of my big servers I don't need online into a humidor. My server room is already at a comfy 65 degrees.

Bandsaw, and get one that will also cut steel. then keep blades handy for both. I think you'd find it would do a good job for you on the g10, g11, carbon fiber etc. not that I've tried it, but I think a steel cutting blade would last you longer than a standard wood blade.

Red

The just rebuilt/refreshed table saw and the base humi. Used cabinet grade red oak 1/2 inch ply for the body since it will be in a cabinet. The lid will be half inch solid red oak with a half inch overhang on the front and sides with a flush back and rolled edges. Everything will be lined with 1/4 inch cedar and a countersink lid for sealing.

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Originally Posted by Big Red

Hey cannon, post pics of that humidor if you don't mind. I like the filing cabinet idea. I want to turn one of my big servers I don't need online into a humidor. My server room is already at a comfy 65 degrees.

Bandsaw, and get one that will also cut steel. then keep blades handy for both. I think you'd find it would do a good job for you on the g10, g11, carbon fiber etc. not that I've tried it, but I think a steel cutting blade would last you longer than a standard wood blade.

Red

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Man that's a big humidor. I'm taking it this is hidden right? I have a friend that I gave a large pelican case to. he uses that as his main humidor and puts all the boxes in there. then his desktop humidor he stocks from the big one, which he keeps in the closet where the wife doesn't look. :)

Red

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Originally Posted by cannonfodder

I have them all. While you cant make cabinets with a band saw, you cant cut scales on a table saw. You could resaw stock to slabs with a thin kerf blade on a table saw you cannot cut the curves or do the detail work. Each tool has its place, for resawing stock and doing the curve cuts for scales, a band saw is what you need. But be for warned, good tools are not cheap. I have a 1.5 horse Jet 14 inch band saw, you can run 1/8 to 3/4 inch blades for different work, although I would not recommend going over a half inch blade on that unit. With the thin 1/8 blade and the right guides, you can do near scroll saw work. A scroll saw shines for those super tight turns and you cannot do inside cuts with a band saw.

A table saw is good for big work.

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My thoughts exactly. I have a 14" bandsaw and 10" contractor's saw (table saw) and each has its uses. For ripping I use the tablesaw, for resawing I use the bandsaw. I used to use the tablesaw for resawing, a glueline ripping blade makes a nice smoot surface, but even with a thin kerf blade you lose a lot of material. I hate seeing several boardfeet of ebony lying as dust under my saw at the end of the day.

I have spent years building a proper wood shop. With the addition of that big cabinet saw and a jointer recently I am in heaven. I will give you an example. That big humi. I rip and cut the ply to size on the table saw. I cut the box angles on the table. Make the rabbit cuts for the base on the router table I built into the table saw. Now for the liner, I have a ¾”x8”x3’ Spanish seeder board that needs to line that big box. So I rip it to two 4” planks, plane them to make sure they are square then resaw them into 4 3/16 inch boards from each section, then plain out the mill marks and make sure each is the exact thickness. Now that one board has become 8 4”tall, 3’ long boards. You cannot do that in a table saw and ripping a 4’x4’ board in a band saw, while possible, would be a major pain and your results would probably suck. But we are getting way OT.

To cut the rolling angles used in scales, you need a thin blade, be it band saw, scroll saw or coping saw. You can put a ½ inch blade on a band saw and resaw ebony, maple, bone, horn, antler, composite, etc… I have cut them all in my saw, and for just scale making a good band saw, 6 or 8 inch table belt sander and a spindle sander will do wonders. I have made a dozen sets of scales in one afternoon but I have it down to a science at this point. A word of wisdom, don’t go cheep. Yes you can get a band saw for $200 at the big box hardware store, but you will be disappointed. You cant do a big job with a small tool, but you can do a small job with a big tool.

I have both and use the band saw much more . The band saw is much more versatile and much safer working with small pieces (no kick back). I will work much closer to the blade with a band saw than with a table saw. Using a resaw blade you can easily slab a 4"x4" down to 1/8" scale stock and as other members have mentioned there is much less wasted wood due to the thickness or the blade.
The one thing that I would look for is roller bearing blade guides for the top and bottom.
I use my table saw for cross cutting wide stock and ripping very long stock.
"Hope this helps

Thanks for all the input guys, I was leaning towards the bandsaw anyways, but think everyone has validated my opinion.

Anyone have or used this: Ryobi 9" Bandsaw

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Originally Posted by dnjrboy

Thanks for all the input guys, I was leaning towards the bandsaw anyways, but think everyone has validated my opinion.

Anyone have or used this: Ryobi 9" Bandsaw

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Forget the Ryobi. If you're looking to just buy a band saw and mostly use it for smaller work get the Skill band saw. I got mine at Lowe's and paid like $110.00.
It comes with a rip fence, miter, laser guide and 2 speeds. The laser guide is extremely accurate and helpfull.
I cut 1/8 slabs with no problems whatsoever. I just cut a 1/4 inch slab of Red Morrell burl blank in 2 x 1/8 slabs today. Perfect.
Couldn't be happier. The max. cutting height is 3 1/2 inches. which for smaller blanks is no problem.
If your serious about woodworking and bigger projects then a 14 inch band saw is what I would get but be prepared to pay a higher price tag.

I've been to Lowe's and looked at that bandsaw repeatedly. I don't have a bandsaw and would love to get a nice quality big one, but for now I wouldn't mind getting one just for scales. Max, from what you wrote, I assume you consider the Skil to be adequate? I was worried that it would not accurate enough.

As a person of little experience I bought a scroll saw that happened to be on sale at home depot. Now, for just cutting pieced that have been taped and getting shapes it is great. The problem I have is that a lot of scale stock I buy off ebay is 3/8 in the types of wood I want. Now, ripping 3/8 with the scroll saw is impossible, but I have seen it done with a small band saw. My father has a table saw for ripping, but my fingers are too valuable to risk ripping 3/8 with a table saw. I also have had pieces kick back on e and almost got a finger cut off because I was dealing with this stock and an improper push stick. So, I am planning to buy the craftsman 10" with rip fence and right now its $200. So, all I can say is listen to these guys, but dont buy a scroll saw unless you are planning to only cut shapes. THis is my two cents, but I have screwed up a lot of things since joining this site. But I have used a band saw for cutting scales and ripping 3/8 stock without much problems.
Best Wishes and Protect the Fingers.

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Originally Posted by Utopian

I've been to Lowe's and looked at that bandsaw repeatedly. I don't have a bandsaw and would love to get a nice quality big one, but for now I wouldn't mind getting one just for scales. Max, from what you wrote, I assume you consider the Skil to be adequate? I was worried that it would not accurate enough.

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I think it's a bargain for what you get. Skill is Bosch. It's made in China, but what isn't.

It's real easy to put together. The only thing you need to do when ripping is to use your fingers (always be carefull not to get to close to the blade) and hold the piece of wood against the ripping fence. Kind a like when you hone and are holding the tang side of the razor while using your other hand/fingers to counter weight/balance the razor.

Go slowly, follow the laser guide which once calibrated is spot on! and rip it through. You might end up with a lesser width at the end because you really can't use your fingers that close to the wood when trying to push it through the last inch or two.

I'm totally happy. I have a few other Skill tools and they are very good. Again, we're not talking for big project either like cannonfodder. For those you need the big guns.

Small bandsaws are fine, It is all you need for small to medium size work. Buy high quality blades and set the saw and guides up correctly and it will do what you ask of it. Buy a used copy of Mark Duginske’s band saw book. It is a very good book on the how’s and why’s of bandsaws.

Charlie

And here's a few nice tips and small video on the bottom of the page.

I've read up a lot on table saws and bandsaws but still can't decide! I almost decided on a bandsaw (I like the spec of the proxxon micro bandsaw) but then I read that unless I use at least 1/2 inch wide blades that the blade tends to wander and leaves a wavy cut. I get scale material resawn for me at the moment but would like to saw my own, mainly out of 2 inch square blanks, but the possibility of a wandering or wavy cut is putting me off the idea of a bandsaw. Has anyone had a problem like this with their bandsaw? I'm wondering if I am going to have to spend a lot more for a really precise machine.

Regards,
Neil.

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Originally Posted by Neil Miller

I've read up a lot on table saws and bandsaws but still can't decide! I almost decided on a bandsaw (I like the spec of the proxxon micro bandsaw) but then I read that unless I use at least 1/2 inch wide blades that the blade tends to wander and leaves a wavy cut. I get scale material resawn for me at the moment but would like to saw my own, mainly out of 2 inch square blanks, but the possibility of a wandering or wavy cut is putting me off the idea of a bandsaw. Has anyone had a problem like this with their bandsaw? I'm wondering if I am going to have to spend a lot more for a really precise machine.

Regards,
Neil.

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Wavy cuts has to do with technique and improper calibration of your bandsaw. Waving can be a vibration within the cutting line. Wavy cuts may also have to do with the guide blocks being too far from the blade sides to properly support the blade. It's important to find the right tension of the blade.
I cut with 1/4" and 3/8" blades with no problems. I just take my time with a steady hand flow.

Thanks Max for the tip on the Skil bandsaw. Now to find it in Canada.

i use a craftsman 10" bandsaw with a 1/2" 3tpi blade from highland wood working.
then i run over it with my bosch planer and in one set im good to go.

table saws are just as good for resaw cuts. so they take out a little more on the kerf but whatever. the cut is much more dependable and you dont have to worry about tension and track and setting up the guide blocks.
you just have to worry about loosing your fingers.

dont get a skil bandsaw. yes i know skil makes bosch blah blah. whatever. i chose the craftsman because of its price, 200 usd. i replced the rollers on it.

as for the humidor building, good luck with that man. it looks like you got a good plan and the skill to produce. heres my humidor...i didnt build it :)

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...ese/Photo1.jpg
im just waiting for my la gloria cubana figurado to come in :)
mainly it has cigalo 6 and ashotn cabinet's in there

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Originally Posted by Neil Miller

I've read up a lot on table saws and bandsaws but still can't decide! I almost decided on a bandsaw (I like the spec of the proxxon micro bandsaw) but then I read that unless I use at least 1/2 inch wide blades that the blade tends to wander and leaves a wavy cut. I get scale material resawn for me at the moment but would like to saw my own, mainly out of 2 inch square blanks, but the possibility of a wandering or wavy cut is putting me off the idea of a bandsaw. Has anyone had a problem like this with their bandsaw? I'm wondering if I am going to have to spend a lot more for a really precise machine.

Regards,
Neil.

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The quality of the cut from a band saw is a function of many variables. Naturally if you want to make straight cuts, such as re-sawing big stuff down to thin stock a wider blade is preferable. Conversely if you want to do scrollwork, a wide blade is useless. A band saw with a good, sharp blade, in proper adjustment and with a good fence and/or jigs should not "wander". You have to be certain your upper and lower guides are in good shape and set properly. Be sure to set the upper guide so that it just clears the workpiece.
While a tablesaw is truly the workhorse of a wood shop, the bandsaw is much more vesatile and safer. Now I personally believe that any properly designed machine is perfectly safe if used safely. Most injuries on a tablesaw are due to kick backs (which are due to improper use). The bandsaw will never kick back. Having said that, let me add that butchers use bandsaws because they are very good at effortlessly cutting through meat and bone.

I bought a nice bandsaw from Lowe's and it set me back around a hundred bucks. I noticed cut marks on the wood but that could be an adjustment of the blade issue.

Rich

“All good things arrive unto them that wait – and don’t die in the meantime.” – Mark Twain

A decent bandsaw that cuts without wandering and cutting marks needs to have "crowned" tires on the wheels. These are usually made of rubber or urethane and have a convex surface. It's a rule of physics that a tensioned blade will always try to ride the high spot on the tire and that keeps the sawblade very well aligned. Together with guiding blocks above and below the sawtable, preferably equiped with rolling bearings guiding the blade, you could even cut perfect veneer with a band saw. Here's a great US-based company that has all the good stuff for upgrading most bandsaws into precisely operating machines:
Band saw blades, wheels, guides, and parts from Carter Products

That said: the easiest and by far cheapest way to produce thin stock for scale production with great precision, is to plane it down with a well-tuned hand plane. If the blade is sharp, it goes very swiftly. You need a holding jig: a flat surface to which you attach stop guides that hold the stock in place while the plane produces shavings. The stop guides need to have the same thickness as you want your stock to have when done. With a bit of imagination, also tapered spacers can be cut this way.

Bart.