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How do the grit numbers compare between wet dry and micro-mesh? I bought some micro mesh but even the highest grit doesn't seem higher than 2k of the 3M.
No matter what I use I can't seem to get rid of very fine scratches while polishing. I am using compounds with a buffer as well. I thought the micro mesh would help but it doesn't seem to.
The 1500 Micro Mesh compares approx. the 600 grit from the 3M. So the 12.000 MM is approx. 5000 at normal grits.
Fine scratches on what???
The blade??
or the scales????
I'm going to say that there's something in your micromesh or on your surface. You shouldn't have any scratches with the highest micromesh.
Yes the blade. I go back down the line of grits thinking that I didn't get out all the scratches from the lower numbers and go back up but still see lines. Is a glass finish really doable or am i being unrealistic?Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
A glass mirror finish is doable, no doubt but when sanding you need to remove the scratches from the previous grit. It seems somewhere in your sanding pyramid you left scratches that were not properly removed. When some leftover scratches are present you can go to town with your 12000 Mesh or green compounds, you'll achieve a nice polished look but the scratches will remain.Quote:
Originally Posted by radray5
Unless your buffing wheel is contaminated with some lower grit compounds or for some reason your sand paper is. When moving up in the grits be it sand paper or buffing wheels always make sure the blade is as clean as possible.
Personally I have never had much luck with Micromesh on the steel, that's why I was asking, it works great for me on the finish on the scales, but that is about it...
Maybe Mad Max can give you some help on how he uses it, but I switch to the Buffer and compounds after 2000 grit wet-r-dry....
Thank you all for the input. I agree with Glenn the micro-mesh seems like a good idea but I don't see much effect above 2k 3M.
And I think you are right Max, I am thinking my buffing wheels need to be changed. The lines are VERY fine and the buffing should be removing them.
The only thing I can think of is contamination, although I keep them separate with different compounds maybe it is sawdust or too much compound on the wheels. I am at the point of getting the blade VERY shinny but those fine lines won't go away. I guess when all else fails, start from scratch.
I agree with Glen, in my opinion MicroMesh is not the first choice for steel. I´m shure the higher grits from MM dont will work effectiv on the steel, thats why you dont can notice a different to the 3M. For Wood, Horn, Bone and this stuff it is great, for steel you will get better results with the 3M and good buffing compounds.
I don't use Micro Mesh anymore since it's all buffer, polishing, buffing and compounds. That's quality stuff, right there.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Like everybody said, it works great on scales if needed, especially the acrylics, horn, bone or poly or any glossy coating you have applied on wood, ...
I always test all my products. These were my finding with Micro Mesh.
When I have a mirror polished blade coming from the buffer (scratch free) and I swipe it with a 12K micro mesh the blade incurs scratches.
That's why I stopped using it on steel.
Here is their conversion chartQuote:
Originally Posted by radray5
Micro Mesh Grit Size Conversion Chart
MM doesn't gouge as deeply as wetndri so a 1500 MM which is equal to 400 w'n'd may take a while to get rid of a 400 grit pattern. As has been said the 12000 is 2 micron so you still need a buff & compounds if you're after a mirror.