Restoring a Blade

Restoring might be the wrong word... but we'll go with that.

I'm just curious as to the "correct" method of ending up with a mirror finish. I've worked on guitars, so long term (multi-week) processes is nothing new to me -- especially when you're using 32000 grit papers, polishing compounds, etc.

Wood, I understand it's nature.

Metal, though, I'm clueless. I've read the Wiki articles regarding restoration, but it's only one method -- I assume there are multiple.

What is wrong with using a cleaner to get grime off? I imagine it is harsh to the metal, yes, but what if done slowly and in small amounts? Is sanding the only real way of doing this?

This all is being brought up because of a Shumate 018 I bought at an antique shop. Everything isn't in horrible condition, but it definitely needs some TLC and a general make over. The tang has a hammered/dimpled effect to it and I really do not want to screw that up because of sanding.

So... suggestions would be great.

Thanks,

Riean

For razors that have Hammered tangs / Designed tangs
after the blade has been cleaned up, then the best way that I have found to get them clean and not lose any designs etc: is the tumbler method... That is actually the gentlest cleaning method that I have found to date...

The one question that seems to come up in the workshop more than anything is the "Sanding" question... So far no one has posted a better way to clean and smooth old blades, sooner or latter to get the steel nice and clean and shiny you have to use some sort of abrasive... We have seen many posts that elude to miracle chemical cleaners, but I haven't seen follow ups yet...

Hmm... Thanks. I'll have to do some research on that then.

And I guess I'm on the quest to find another method -- preferably without destroy a potentially nice razor!

Thanks again.

For hammered tang I simply leave it alone, even if there are a few rust spots beneath the finish, and wrap tape around the tang if I need to sand the blade (you really don’t want to scratch the finish).

As for “cleaning” the blade that would depend on the condition of the blade “as received”… and the type of grind, if thin hollow ground you want to do as little sanding as possible if you go that rout.

But first try a little metal polish, you may be surprised at what it can do.

Just use a scotch pad to get most of the grime off. Then spend hours buffing the razor with MAAS and a cloth. Thats the simplest and least amount of tool investment way to do it. Won't remove any pitting, but your razor will be clean and shiny. And so will the pits. :)

Really, theres no shortcut. Even power tools are just powered sanding. You need to use an abrasive to remove pits.

Smythe - Thanks a bunch for the info.

Leighton - MAAS?

Expanding the post a little... What is a good method to remove pitting and what does it exactly look like. Rust = Red and obvious. I'm envisioning pits as being dips in the blade itself that are black, correct? If severe enough they can be felt, right?

Again, reading the wiki and some general how-to's say sanding is the route. (Who knew that metal and wood would require nearly the same tools...?)

I figured there wouldn't be any shortcuts, but there's nothing wrong in asking. I rather enjoy finding things that don't have shortcuts; it makes it more genuine and meaningful. Especially when the end product can be used.

Maybe it's just me, but shortcuts sound like a heck of a lot of BORING! Let alone not nearly as rewarding.

You've got it right. Pits are shallow areas in the blade. They can be polished, they'll just still be there.

MAAS is a form of metal polish, very popular among us. Also popular is Flitz and T-wax premium rubbing compound. Hate writing that name. Why can't they make it shorter like MAAS, 4 letters....

Correct, pitting is the dips in the otherwise smooth surface on the steel (left after you remove the red rust), usually black in color, however the black color can be polished out, the pits will remain (without sanding) but will be shiny like the surrounding steel. A few folks prefer this method… simply polish the pits, no sanding, hone her up and enjoy the shave.

The best way to remove the pits is sanding… you cannot “replace” the steel that’s gone from the pits (oh how we wish), so you have to sand the surrounding steel so it all appears smooth and level.

Shortcuts? Unless you have a grinder with “twin facing counter rotating wheels”… sanding is the way to go, some use single wet grinding wheels, others use belt sanders, but most use the hand method… sorry there are no shortcuts.

One more thing if you decide to go the sanding rout, you will need wet/dry sandpaper 600, 800, 1000 and 2000 grit available at most auto parts store.
Also be careful while hand sanding the blade, even if you think it’s dull, you would be surprised how easily the paper will “unintentionally” sharpen an edge.

Hahaha! Yeah. T-wax premium rubbing compound is a mouth full! :rofl2: I'm off to get some MAAS then.

I have two razors (and a third if I want to go buy it) to play around with ideas. May as well try both and see the differences. Hmm... This may get addicting...

Oh, and note taken: Beware of unintentionally sharpened edges when sanding...

P.S. I freakin' love this forum! Hahaha! :bow

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Riean

What is a good method to remove pitting and what does it exactly look like. Rust = Red and obvious.

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Definition of pitting

HOLY !@#$! Sand paper works! I didn't think it would be this effective... Apparently I was under estimating the strength of the razor. After a 400 grit sand it's shiny already. I can't wait for the higher grits now!

That link has been book marked Clavichord. Thanks a bunch.

EDIT: Yeah. I'm addicted. Give me more razors!