I see people here warning against using it to protect straights after use. It's cheap, available, convenient. Why shouldn't I use it?
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I see people here warning against using it to protect straights after use. It's cheap, available, convenient. Why shouldn't I use it?
As long as you are willing to spray it directly on your face, then there is nothing wrong with using it on your razors. If you are concerned that it might have some level of toxicity risk, then you might want to use something else.
WD40 is not meant for the skin so it's not a wise idea to use it on something that will go on the skin. Also WD40 gets nasty and sticky after a time so it wouldn't be the best for storage as it would be a real pain to remove.Quote:
Originally Posted by pcb01
I have used it for "oiling" the pivot area. No probs there.
WD40 is mostly solvent. If you need a penetrating solvent that leaves behind a tiny amount of lubricant behind once it has evaporated, then WD40 is great.
Example of misuse: Trains in the UK used to have "slam doors". The door catches needed to be kept greased. But sometimes they used a WD40-like oil instead. The solvent dissolved the grease, which washed away. The door catches stopped operating smoothly and a few passengers were killed falling out of trains.
Use the right tool for the job.
WD40 is intended to be used to loosen rusted bolts. It contains mostly solvent and a bit of some sort of oil; the solvent helps the oil penetrate deeply into the rust. It is not designed to be used as a surface treatment for clean steel. The solvent will wash away any existing oil, and the oily substance left behind by WD40 is hydroscopic which will quickly rust your razor.
I would say it makes sense that WD40 can dissolve grease, but I do not agree that WD40 is hygroscopic. That makes no sense. First, I don't know of many oily substances that are hygroscopic. Second, the name of WD40 is from the chemist who was trying to derive a water displacing anti-corrosive. The name is an acronym for Water Displacement attempt number 40. If WD40 caused rust, I doubt if it would be as commonly used as it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by mparker762
Most of us in my business wont touch the stuff as it seems to create additional problems. While it does loosen problematic nuts and bolts and free up hinges and moving parts those benefits tend to be short lived and in short order these parts begin to stick real bad and I have also noticed a serious tendency towards rust on the stuff I had used it on before I knew better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Not good for the scales, period....
Yup, I'm definitely wrong there.
There are better things to put on your razor and your face than WD40.
Nonetheless, there is ample anecdotal evidence that WD-40 is hydroscopic, no matter what the manufacturer claims about it. It is wonderful for releasing frozen bolts, but steel that has been sprayed with WD40 and not relubed afterwards will rust much faster than had it simply been left dry to begin with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
If what you are looking for is a good spray-on rust preventative, then the Birchwood-Casey "Barricade" stuff is really good. Like WD-40 it contains both a solvent and lubricating oil, so you spray it on and it spreads out and penetrates every nook and cranny, but can be left on the steel and will actually protect the steel instead of attracting rust. It's just not any good at releasing stuck bolts...
Having absolutely no scientific evidence what so ever, I can only go by hands on experience.....
I have used WD-40 for the last 2 years on my razors, from cleaning off tape residue to cleaning the inside of scales and pivots....I also wipe it on every single razor after shaving and drying the blade...
It protects my DD and Shumate collections inside of their cabinet and I have not had one problem with rust, or gumming up.....
Now I do actually before using a razor, rinse the blade under hot water.....
Disclaimer: I have not used it on untreated wood scales like the Livi's have, or on the old old pressed leather scales.....
If you want a cheap alternative to Camelia oil, try Wahl's clipper oil available in Wal Mart, Target, Walgreens, CVS. it's basically Mineral oil and safe for your blades and will not harm your scales.
Thirty years ago gun magazines warned against using WD40 as a rust preventative. I read that even oil left on the surface of metal will eventually allow moisture to get between the metal and the lubricant and they recommended wiping the metal down every so often with fresh rust preventative. The best stuff I ever came across is called R.I.G. but regrettably I believe they are out of business. Fortunately for me I have a large can of the stuff. I have an Outer's Silicone Gun Cloth impregnated with the stuff for wiping my razors. Hasn't done my skin any harm yet.
'Inox' is my preferred poison & you can even buy it in America :p
Inox-MX3 The Supreme Lubricant...
Go to the nearest pharmacy and pick up a bottle of Baby Oil (Mineral Oil)... It's cheap, non toxic, leaves no residue... and has a bunch or other uses.
The reason for the anecdotal evidence of it's hydroscopic properties is actually up above in one of the previous posts.Quote:
Originally Posted by mparker762
The reason is that it is mostly made up of solvents, and leaves VERY little lubrication behind. So, it will strip away all the oil/grease that is protecting a piece of metal from oxidation, and not leave enough of it's own lubricant behind to do anything useful in terms of lubrication or protection.
That's why I used to love it for cleaning my bike chain when I commuted on a bicycle. It would dissolve all the old grease, drive out all the water in between the links, and flush out all the road grit in the process so I could re-lube the chain after it dried. Once I started doing that every week instead of just adding more chain lube, my chains started lasting about twice as long.
its def not for face.
ive met several old men that swear that spraying wd40 on your knees is better than any arthritis medicine...:confused:
found this page saying the health effects of it.
http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/tfacts79.html
it shouldnt cause rust though....Quote:
WD-40 literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed WD-40 back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion — a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula on his 40th try.
i think if your using it on machinery or whatever the parts should be wiped and done up with manufactureer reccomended oils.
The only thing WD-40 is good for is cleaning grease off of your hands in the shop and getting those stickers and labels off of jars. It will gum up guns or fish reels big time.
bj
They may have reformulated WD 40.
I tend to think of WD40 as a 'Jack of all trades master of none'
As far as I know it is water based. This came up when there was talk of it containing silicone and being potentially harmful to catalytic converters, which as far as I know it is not. I've had problems with it damaging certain paint finishes and 'O' ring materials.There are better rust solvents,better lubricants and better corrosion preventatives available. I seem to remember an article in the Daily Telegraph (UK) where Dr James Le Fanu suggested spraying it in arthritic joints.
Everyone knows you only needs two thing to fix it all : WD40 and duct tape.
If it don't move but should - WD40
if it does move and shouldn't - duct tape
Myself I prefer automatic transmission fluid on my blades - it's clean, smells good
or Hoppes. :)
In that case, shouldn't it be called WD40.01?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
Interesting read...
The Gun Zone -- Corrosion Test
Looks like I might be switching products
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...campaign=10612
now i will note this, its not supposed to be used in firearms because firearms get incredibly hot with use. from revolvers to ak's theyll flat out melt your skin off if your firing them fast/long enough.
i would imagine that this heat is why they say not to use it on guns,
also, NOONE recomends wd40 for long term protection, its to clean, and then wipe with manufacturer recomended oils, which would vary between stainles and carbon, guns and engines etc etc.. might it be OK, yes, but definitly not recommended.
it doesnt lube for long, if you put it on a squeaky chair itll be squeaky again in no time. the only times itll seem to last long is when it actually loosens pre-existing oils.
it is known to carry the same ingrediants as stoddard solvent :
White spirit - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
results from nails being misted with salt solution:
brand.............................after5 hours.......................after 29 hours
Best
Eezox ....... No rust, bright........... No rust, bright
Break Free CLP .........No rust, bright ....No rust, bright
Excellent
Break Free LP........... No rust,bright ...........Trace rust freckling
Very Good
LSA Medium Weapons Oil .........No rust, bright , .......Some freckling small rust spot
WD-40....... Trace freckling......... Some rust freckling, few spots
Good
RemOil....... No rust, bright........ Some rust freckling
TW25-B........ No rust, bright .........Some rust spots and freckling
Fair Rust Prevent Trace .......rust freckling....... Significant coverage with rust spots
Maybe
CRC 5-56 No rust,.......... bright Freckling.........rust strip 1/3 of bottom
Sheath Trace.......... rust freckling......... Rust spots & freckling
Unsatisfactory
Hoppe's Lubricating ......Significant rust on bottom....... About 50% rust covered
3-in-One Oil ........Significant rust spots ......More than 50% rust coveredtaken from gssixguns link.
The Gun Zone -- Corrosion Test
that eezox better be some good stuff, its exponentially more expensive than wd40, over 3 dollars for 1.5 ounces, my wd40 im lookin at cost the same, and is 13.5 ounces, plus these can come in twin packs and stuff.
ive been trying and trying to convince my buddy not to use 3in1 on his guns. but it says guns on the bottle so he wont listen/.
When I was gunsmithing I lived in horror at what this stuff does to firearms (and everything else it touches). The build up over the years can take forever to get off and not without damage to the finish. Because of that I will never have the crud in my house, there are many other products out there that have a reasonable reputation. Heck mineral oil is preferable over that stuff :p
The winner seems clear, but a picture helps...Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Preventing rust on your rifle.... - AirgunBBS.com
Nail 1 - control (no oil)
Nail 2 - 3in1 oil
Nail 3 - Silicone spray
Nail 4 - WD40
Nail 5 - Break-Free CLP
Nail 6 - EezOx
http://i317.photobucket.com/albums/m...hotos/rust.jpg
I'm surprised that Hoppe's faired THAT bad. I have used both Hoppes and Break free on my firearms with no ill effects to either but I do keep fresh silica gel bags in my safe, so that helps I'm sure. No results on the trans fluid though. :) Actually I do wipe my tools down with trans fluid after working on cars and such, it removes the fresh gunk and haven't had a wrench rust out yet. I've yet to see a dirty, grimy automatic transmission while pulling its innards out.
Back to the original topic though, mineral oil has suited me well for my razors. I only do this with the razors I keep in the bathroom. The rest I just make sure thay are dry and stay in a friendly environment.
I've come up with my own gun blend made of
20% engine assembly lube (super super sticky)
30% Marvel Mystery Oil
15% Hoppes Powder Solvent
35% AmzOil 5-30
I'm mega corrosive
really really corrosive
the engine assembly lube makes it STAY
the hoppes and MMO smell nice and clean crud
the motor oil is simply the slickest ever
BUT
I nearly put it on a razor !!!
Problem?
Celluloid and gunpowder are the same thing !!!!!!! :gaah:
I'm gonna try EzOx
An old acquaintance who was an Artillery officer commented that the Army required the use of Break Free as a rust preventive on artillery tubes. He further said that was good enough reason for him to use it as his rust prevention program on his personal firearms. That being said, it became good enough for me to use on my rustables.
It's easy to be easy...
;)
I don't have any guns, though that may change soon due to some local circumstances, but even if I had one, I doubt that I would be rubbing it on my face. Does anyone have any idea about the relative toxicity of these various lubricants?
Well, if you ever change your mind, at least make sure it's not loaded first. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
um.... less than lead? :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
I don't use my stuff on razors, no idea on the stuff others use.
I wipe my blade and wash before shaving.
Let's hear it for Ron buyin himself a piece !! :rock:
Nothin's dyin if the lead ain't flyin!!!
finger off the trigger and hammer dec0cked (filter LOL)Quote:
Originally Posted by igitur55
I wouldn't hesitate assuming these two thing
He could also go with the throwing knives (see other discussion).Quote:
Originally Posted by gratewhitehuntr
'Inox' is a food grade lubricant so would be safe I imagine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Inox-MX3 The Supreme Lubricant...
WD-40 Solvent????????? LOL
Baby Oil....that's the wonderful WD-40, you can use without any problem on your blade. (this is my very very very personal opinion)
Mineral Oil
Seriously. WD-40 is mostly a mix of baby oil, Vaseline, and the goop inside homemade lava lamps.
What's Inside WD-40? Superlube's Secret Sauce