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1. Is there a way of removing the pins, without damaging them for good? I cannot find or...
Short answer is No. You can find replacement pins, washers, and spacers at Classic Shaving.
http://www.classicshaving.com/page/page/523001.htm
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2. The ivory scales are not damaged, but they are dirty, and the pores have soaked some dirt too. What is...
Are you sure it is ivory? If you are, then there is usually only a need to buff them with a fine white polishing compound. If you are not sure if they are ivory, bone or celluloid, send me an email and I will let you know how to test for them. Sandpaper of any grit on ivory should not be necessary unless you are removing scratches. 1000 is ok, but you would be better off with 1500 or tighter. If it is just soil and grease, use Quick and Brite in the paste form, full strength with a soft toothbrush.
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3. The blade doesn’t have a red rust (active?) a lot, but it is black ~80% of the...
WD has a lot of uses, and it can be helpful in some stages of restoration. You would be better off with some kerosene for rust removal. I keep a squeeze bottle of it. When it is needed, I tip the bottle while covering the tip with my index finger. After turning the bottle back upright, there is enough on my fingertip to apply to the blade a little at a time. It goes a long way. Too much won't hurt, it's just messy. Don't smoke while you are doing this :wink: And more importantly, use the least abrasive approach first. Use Maas or Flitz first with a cotton shop rag. Doesn't work, go to kerosene and 0000 or 000 steel wool. Still too light? Then try fiber wheels or scotch brite. If that doesn't do it, then go to sandpaper.
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And, finally, how do I sand off the edge? It is like saw all over the edge, and has 2mm...
MM's don't compute with me. One of the hardheads who refuses to convert to the metric system. You have asked a lot of short questions that do not have short answers. Almost like saying, "How do you rebuild a carburetor... or something." :? But to try a relatively short answer, I am going to make a bunch of the guys here cringe. I use my variable speed Burr King that uses 2inch by 72inch sanding belts. I stik a worn 180 grit on, run about 800 rpms at the contact wheel and make as much as 1/8 of an inch of a blade edge disappear in about 15 seconds. I tilt the blade downward at a 10 to 15 degree angle and traverse the blade parallel to the grinding surface. If the blade is perpendicular to the grinding surface, you will either chip it further, or break it, or cut the shit out of your fingers. Without a Burr King, you can do the same thing with one of those belt sanders from Sears. Use finer grit belts. And be mindful that they are one speed. They can heat up a blade in a hurry. You will get a ton of sparks with little fingers exploding from the ends of the sparks. That's what it should do. The more dense the spark, the harder the steel. Do not use a lot of pressure, never hold the blade in one spot, and do not let heat build up. You will have to hit around 500 degrees before doing any damage. Use bare hands so you can tell how hot the blade is getting. If it gets too hot to hold, back off, and dip it in warm water. Of course, you shouldn't do any of this if you are not comfortable with the dynamics of a blade against an unforgiving and moving belt that will remove meat from a bone a little quicker than it does steel. If you turn any part of the blade a different color, like brown or blue, you have just toasted your blade. Practice on a junker first. If you don't have either of those, find an old coarse sharpening stone and start sawing. Or... you can hone the marks out.
Hope that helps...
