Has anyone tried using a rust remover like CLR or Rust Oleum for removing light or heavy rust from a razor? I'm thinking about doing that for a razor that my metal glo did little for.
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Has anyone tried using a rust remover like CLR or Rust Oleum for removing light or heavy rust from a razor? I'm thinking about doing that for a razor that my metal glo did little for.
I have not tried it myself, but many have. I've never heard of a single one coming back with positive results. Using muriatic acid (which is the active ingredient in many rust removers) on your razor is a bad idea. It can cause staining, and not the even kind of staining you can pass off as blueing.
Straight answer. Don't use any of those products mentioned on your straight razor.
You want to remove rust badly. Sand it down or use some greaseless compounds and shine everything back up or leave satin.
Leave satin? what does that mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximilian
+1
I have heard of all kinds of people trying all kinds of things, but I have never seen anyone post positive results...
Another thing to keep in mind is that if there was an easy way to "NO RUST" Myself, Dan d Man, Max, Alex, Lynn, Ken, Buddel, Oz, one of us would be using it... and all of us sand, buff, or grind, our way to clean shiny steel... Please if I am wrong here one of you guys correct me...
A satin finish sometimes also called a brushed finish. You usually stop half way as to give your steel a matte look versus a high mirror shine. One of the advantages of a satin or matte look is that imperfections don't show up as much compared to a mirror shine.Quote:
Originally Posted by BYUTexan
I don't use rust remover, but I do use gypsy tears for that extra high gloss mirror finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Gypsy tears? Where do I get it?Quote:
Originally Posted by floppyshoes
Here's the situation. I have a Masonic Wade & Butcher razor and I want to preserve the etchings. There are various rust spots that I couldn't get off with a polishing paste Would it be difficult to sand those various spots? or would I need to sand the whole thing?
They just don't work and will harm the scales. I would stick with a proper Dremel attachment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BYUTexan
Ahhhhh you are still working that blade...
OK etching/engraving if you can feel the pattern imprinted in the blade then perhaps you can keep it
I have found the the Murphy's law of etching/engraving is that the pitting is most likely deeper then the design...
The absolute safest method for keeping engraving is the tumbler method, and it will even wipe out etching or wash...
There just is no perfect scenario, to remove pitting one must remove metal, remove metal and you can loose the designs...
Now the tumbler will polish the metal and pits equally so that the pitting looks better but it will still be there...
hope that helps...
Bottom line is that with some razors you just have to live with the pits to preserve the etching.
What is pits/pitting?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner777
That would be areas of deep or sometimes shallow pits in the steel from rust and erosion of the surface steel over time. They are black and usually are small areas grouped together. Sometimes they can be removed in various ways but other times they are deep enough you can only remove part of it.
I'd post a pic but I don't have any right now with significant pitting.
Do you have active red rust on this razor????
Do you have a pic????
Did you put metal polish on active rust????
Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I don't have a camera, so I'll have to borrow one to post pics, but the rust is black in color.
Black could be whats left under the red rust, stains hard to say without seeing it though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner777
there is actually some red rust under the black rust in one heavily rusted area
Okay Glen, I have to ask: Would it be bad to put metal polish on red/orange rust?
Being new at this I've paid attention to the WIKI and have begun to learn to sand and polish. One of the first real lessons was to pay attention around engraving. Do not be so aggressive instead work lighter and you may still have to make a choice between losing the engraving or keeping some pitting. In either case the razor can be brought back to a great shine, you may just have to make a thogh choice.
Most of us use MAAS which is a slightly abrasive polish. It won't hurt anything to use a polish but they vary in abrasive qualities. So results will vary somewhat. As far as the etching is concerned the etching on some razors is pretty deep so you can actually work the entire blade and have the engraving intact just not as pronounced or deep.
Sometimes the depth of the pitting is so deep you would have to remove it to get rid of the pitting. As for me I get as much stain, pitting etc off as I can and still retain some degree of readable etching.
Not wrong Glenn. The gentlest "cleaner" I've found for rust is CocaCola & it still blackens the steel requiring sanding & buffing. The stronger acids will pit the steel to varying degrees... & require even more sanding & buffing.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Quote:
Originally Posted by ENUF2
Yeah, I bought the razor for the Masonic etchings primarily. If I can get most of the black stuff off that I couldn't with the paste then I;ll be content.
Because you are going to create even more work for yourself by smearing the rust, same as using polish and a Dremel will smear the red or black stains/rust even worse... You can actually "burn" the stain into the metal using a felt wheel and polish trying to get it off to soon....Quote:
Originally Posted by BKratchmer
Red rust simply scrapes right off with a DE on SE razor blade....
Guys don't ever just take our word on this stuff try different things yourselves, no telling what you might stumble upon that works....