A question of scales

I havent been in the workshop for a while but i've come up against a problem. Perhaps you folks can help me.

I'm re-scaling a Dovo blade. The scales were slightly damaged, plus I dont like plastic scales at all. I am putting them in mahogony. However I have managed to take the metal decoration off of the old scales and would like to apply it to the new scales.

Part of these are affixed when the pins go in. The other part is purely side decoration. I also want to varnish the scales. So my question is: in which order do I do the following?

1) Attach pins including the metal heel decor

2) Varnish the scales

3) Attach the side decor

Also, how would I attach the side decor? And How do I make the decor fix best to the wood? It had previously been inlaid onto the plastic. Now it doesnt sit flush.

If you need pics let me know. Many thanks in advance.

First you have to get the side inlay on there / in there

You can either actually inlay this into the wood by cutting out the spot carefully with an X-acto set, and epoxing it in, then doing your finish coats...(very hard to do right)

Or you can put one coat of finish on the wood then CA the inlay to the wood and build up the coats of finish around the inlay (very hard to get perfect with out being messy)

There are some examples of this that Floppyshoes and I did with DD Reapers and a Wonderedge I did here with Acrylic scales...

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-gssixgun.html


http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...-re-build.html


There are a few more in the Gallery too... I know Mad Max did a sweet Puma inlay and if you search Vlad's stuff you will find some nice inlays to

Here are some pics of the razor as it was before I took it apart:

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...y/P8080132.jpg

On the reverse side the scales had developed a crack straight through so I had to make some replacements. The bits I have to transfer are the barbers on the heels and the 'Dovo' logo.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...y/P8080135.jpg

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...y/P8080136.jpg

Is that right? I dont understand how I 'cut into the wood'. I have only very VERY basic tools. Think hammer, drill, sandpaper, hacksaw....

You are going to have to do the "on the wood" application then...

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

(very hard to do right)

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But oh so nice if you can pull it off.



As far as how to cut it into the wood, it's just a matter of taking an exact knife and carving it out. Easy in terms of concept, and way the heck above my personal abilities to actually do it.

If you will do this then you may want to make the scales as close to the original shape as possible, you stand the best chance of getting it neat.
“On the wood” will look pretty darn good even if you don’t carve out the indent for it.

The most difficult part of this is the bolsters (I think this is what you call the “barbers on the heels”). You could use chalk (like the marker test when honing) to see the high spots when shaping the butt end of the new scales… sand and test fit again... when close to the final shape the glue (epoxy is probably best) will fill any small voids for a perfect finish.

However if you make them different shape you will have problems getting the metal to reshape to the new contours… I wouldn’t recommend it… … in other words “shape the scales to fit the bolsters but don’t try to fit the bolsters to the scales”

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Originally Posted by smythe

The most difficult part of this is the bolsters (I think this is what you call the “barbers on the heels”). You could use chalk (like the marker test when honing) to see the high spots when shaping the butt end of the new scales… sand and test fit again... when close to the final shape the glue (epoxy is probably best) will fill any small voids for a perfect finish.

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This is not really all that necessary. Since the emblems are thin brass, you can get the shape relatively close and then push/hammer the emblems onto the scales to make the fit perfect. From what I've seen, the Dovo and DD bolsters are poorly cut out of the brass stock to begin with, then set into the celluloid while it is soft. This hides a lot of the shaping flaws, but makes for a tough time when you're trying to re-set them on something hard.

I think that may well be the case floppy. The metal is soft enough to bend with the hand but difficult to bend into a shape matching a hard surface. They were originally attached to the heated celluloid.

One other question: how will I polish the brass if i'm applying varnish to the whole thing? Presumably I polish it before attaching, then varnish. Am I correct?

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Originally Posted by sidneykidney

I think that may well be the case floppy. The metal is soft enough to bend with the hand but difficult to bend into a shape matching a hard surface. They were originally attached to the heated celluloid.

One other question: how will I polish the brass if i'm applying varnish to the whole thing? Presumably I polish it before attaching, then varnish. Am I correct?

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I normally affix them with CA, then polish them in-place before degreasing and topcoating. If you're doing it that way, always give the scales a wash coat (I use shellac) so that you can clean them properly after polishing the emblems.

What is CA? :s

cyanoacrylate a.k.a. Super Glue, Krazy Glue etc.

How do you plan on putting the CA glue on the scale and how are you polishing it after it is dry?:confused:

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Originally Posted by catackett

How do you plan on putting the CA glue on the scale and how are you polishing it after it is dry?:confused:

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You are as wise as I am. I think you need to ask Glen or someone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by catackett

How do you plan on putting the CA glue on the scale and how are you polishing it after it is dry?:confused:

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Elementary, my dear catackett.

DISCLAIMER: This is how I do it, there are other ways.

You get the emblems where you want them and shape them as needed, then place a few drops of CA on them. You then wiggle them a little with a straight pin to get the CA to flow around and under the brass. Then you let it set for a while (I wait 20 min minimum), CA can remain gummy for much longer than the 5-8 seconds the bottle says. Then you use a razor blade and 220 grit sandpaper to remove all the CA that ended up on top of the brass. Finally, polish with 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper, degrease and topcoat the emblems and scales at the same time.

I turn custom wood pens for fun and with that you apply it as the blank turns on the wood laeth. So you could try using a disposable brush to put it on. However it drys very quickly.:confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by catackett

I turn custom wood pens for fun and with that you apply it as the blank turns on the wood laeth. So you could try using a disposable brush to put it on. However it drys very quickly.:confused:

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You may end up with a brush glued to your scales. CA "flash" cures, even the slow-curing type will set up quite fast if you look at it wrong.

If you think you will glue the brush to the scale then only us it to glue the brass. I would use self laveling epoxy to cover the scale after you get the the brass finished. Then finish the inside with some spray poly.
Hope this helps.:)