Did I just destroy this blade?

Hi,
Was working on this blade and I think I killed it.. KILLED it!

First sanded down the blade, about 5 hours.
Then I polished up the blade, to check my sanding, looked nice.

After this I tried to make a rounded edge (spine is rounded too). That worked out nice too.
All looking pretty well, I tried to make a rough edge with a 200-ish grit stone.
This is where something was off, as you can see in the picture. The blade was so thick, it took me ages to put an edge on it, when the edge was on the blade, the spine was worn down!
Not only the spine looks a bit lame now, but the edge is totally uneven.

you call kill when Temper has been change that makes blade really dead. You can 't do anything.
This blade is great condition. i can see there is uneven wear on the back of the blade.Unable to see edge. Most important fact is edge should be straight. if edge is straight then you are good to go even don't worry about different width of the bevel (doesn't matter to effectiveness of the blade).
Now if edge is wavy then you have a little problem. You can use taping method to straight edge or breadknifing. Not hard to do but it isn't easy ether. if you need additinal help let s know.
GL

you did not kill the razor, unless, like Hi-bud sayd, you have ruined the temper of the blade
during some (machine?)sanding

The worn down spine is unreperable, but nothing that ruins the function of the blade.
What you should do is add 2 or more layers of tape if you are going to hone more.

One question: did you manage to put an edge on the blade, yet?
If so, the hardest work is done.
Apply tape and sharpen as usual

The wide uneven bevel is of no (negative) consequence for the shave,
as long as everyhing else is fine.

I had excactly the same probem with a beautiful erich ern near wedge.
It took me hours to get an edge but when I got one,
everything else went fine. btw. it´s spine and bevel look exactly like yours.

Check for a smile or negative smile once more before you move on.
If there is none, you are good to go

Ah, this at least is comforting, I didn't heat up the blade, so that should be fine.

Out of interest, what make is the blade?

I have a Hall & Fielding (Sheffield) that looks very similar, which I still can't find any info on! Has the same spanishy point/ barber's notch and bismark grind, although its a near wedge

Kevor, that's one of the main reasons many always tape the spine when honing a (newly restored) razor.

But you didn't kill the blade. It should shave just fine if honed properly.

Good job on the hand sanding.

Ya know there is a Wiki article about how to do this WITHOUT putting 100 years worth of wear on the spine...

In fact if you go to the original thread and read that it is even better...

Honing = one thing

Restoration is a whole other ballpark

I am right now working on an even better system then the one in the Wiki but that one does work and works rather well....

One other thing, not to be picky, but really those huge wide uneven bevels do not have to be there.. You spend all that time cleaning up a blade, why on earth would you want to not take 1 extra hour to set the bevel nice and neat and not tear up the spine...

You guys are correct the face will not feel the difference, but the eye sure sees it....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scipio

Out of interest, what make is the blade?

I have a Hall & Fielding (Sheffield) that looks very similar, which I still can't find any info on! Has the same spanishy point/ barber's notch and bismark grind, although its a near wedge

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No clue, the marking was worn off when I bought it.

gssixgun: you are right, sure will never hone another knife without some tape on the spine...

JFTR, here is the article Glen was referring to: Honing a damaged blade - Straight Razor Place Wiki. It would be most useful if someone who knows his way around honing went through the original thread (in the references section of the Wiki article), and added the salient bits to the article.