Wedge angle

I am making some scales out of wood. One set is teak and is slightly under 1/8 inch thick. When I assembled them there is a 3/8 inch spread at the pivot end. It takes a slight pressure to close to blade width.

The second set is walnut and slightly over 1/8 inch thick. The walnut scales are much stiffer. I looked at my Bill Ellis disk and he says the wedge should be about the width of the blade and a few degrees.

Do you have any ideas on what the opening at the pivot should be before installing the blade?

Having never seen Ellis' dvd I can't answer for what he says...

My general rule of thumb is to start with 1/2 the width of the tang and sand/file/hammer that into a wedge shape and adjust to fit before drilling the hole...

To answer your question directly the flare should be about 1/4 inch on either side of the tang.. But this is not a steadfast rule...

I can also tell you that packed into this sticky is a ton of info that you might want to take a look at...

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html


We have put tons of links in the opening thread of the Workshop trying to put info at your finger tips....

Here's a photo of one of mine. Visuals always help.

Thanks Glen. What size screws are you using as your adjustable pins? I use paper clips and thumb and fore finger. I think your mock up before pinning looks like a good way to go.

In the same sticky is a link about Adjustable pins from Microfasteners :rofl2:


Browse that man, I am telling you there are some slick tricks in there

Ben, that is about my wedge angle. I think I will reduce the angle for the stiffer scales to reduce the strain on the pins. Is that wedge epoxied with no pin?

Thanks Glen I did not scroll to the bottom. The info looks very complete.

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Originally Posted by jreiter22

I am making some scales out of wood. One set is teak and is slightly under 1/8 inch thick. When I assembled them there is a 3/8 inch spread at the pivot end. It takes a slight pressure to close to blade width.

The second set is walnut and slightly over 1/8 inch thick. The walnut scales are much stiffer. I looked at my Bill Ellis disk and he says the wedge should be about the width of the blade and a few degrees.

Do you have any ideas on what the opening at the pivot should be before installing the blade?

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3/8 is probably close enough if you are talking total distance between the inside of the scales at the tips near the pivot. One factor to consider is the material used. Cocobolo, for instance, would need to be closer together than one of the more flexible materials, including other types of wood. You cannot go wrong having the material of the scales spread 1/8 inch wider than the thickness of the blade at the pivot point. Too much distance at the pivot area will create undue stress on the scales at the area of the spacer and can also cause the scales to bow too much between the pivot and the butt of the razor.

The thickness and angle of the spacer is a mite more critical than the distance between scales at the pivot so as to insure proper tension at the tip of the scales. Measure the thickness of the blade where you want the blade to seat within the scales at the butt of the razor. That's how wide the spacer needs to be at the fattest part. Quarter hollow blades would have a thicker measurement than a full hollow blade if you wanted the same exposure showing from the profile view of the finished razor as full hollow razors get thin real quick real close to the spine. As a general rule, you could use a 3/32 thickness at the wide part of the spacer and taper down from there. Pinch the two halves of the scales onto the spacer temporarily with your thumb and finger just to check the gap near the pivot. That's the part that needs to be 1/8 inch wider than the thickness of the tang at the the pivot point. Once the distance is where you want it, then you can start pinning. I think you will have a more professional look if you learn to peen pins rather than use those nuts/bolts. The ones that Zowada uses are pretty nice, but not the over-protruding ones you can get at microfasteners. There is a video on making wedges on Ellis' blog that may help. That link can be found from his web site.

Thank you Otis that is a very good explanation of fitting the wedge. Bill said the width of the blade but I could not visualize what he meant from his explanation. I am using 18 gauge brass escutcheon pins and 1/16 brass rod for pins. I have to make a fixture to hold the rod for pre- heading.

I have made a dimpling block for #0 washers but the ones I have still look to large. I have ordered #0 and #00 brass washers from Micro. I am currently using salvaged washers for my repairs.

Do you have any suggestions on the washers? I have not tried cutting blanks from 1/16" brass tubing and forming them on the dimpling block.

so have you seen the fixture in the Wiki on making washers using a rod in a piece of round stock? If not take a look. otherwise if you have a paper punch that is used for 3 ring binders and your brass is thin enough you could try that. I have seen that posted somewhere on here.
Good Luck

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Originally Posted by jreiter22

Thank you Otis that is a very good explanation of fitting the wedge. Bill said the width of the blade but I could not visualize what he meant from his explanation. I am using 18 gauge brass escutcheon pins and 1/16 brass rod for pins. I have to make a fixture to hold the rod for pre- heading.

I have made a dimpling block for #0 washers but the ones I have still look to large. I have ordered #0 and #00 brass washers from Micro. I am currently using salvaged washers for my repairs.

Do you have any suggestions on the washers? I have not tried cutting blanks from 1/16" brass tubing and forming them on the dimpling block.

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Washers for the inside at the pivot, or washers for the outside to hold the scales together?
For the inside washers: Tower Hobbies has some 8.5 x 11 sheets of thin plastic that works good for spacing washers and for friction control of the blade as it rotates against the scales. The stuff is less than half a mil thick and comes in a couple different colors. Use leather punches for whatever diameter you want to use to make the washers. I like 3/16. Put a 1/16 hole in the center with a makeshift punch on an individual basis for each washer or drill several at a time as they build up inside of the leather punch by making a dozen at a time.
The makeshift punch can be made by grinding a flat spot on a slight angle at the non-business end of a 1/16 inch drill bit. Put it in your drill press upside down and match it up to a 1/16 hole you have previously drilled in a piece of steel. Place the plastic disc over the hole, press the drill bit through the plastic into the hole in the block and bingo - a washer is made. This can also work with shim material of thin brass. Make sure the hole is deep enough in the lower block to make several washers before having to drill out the hole to remove the plastic plugs or brass plugs.
For outside washers: Use the #0 brass or stainless washers that are .125 OD, .065 ID. You can get larger dia washers also to stack them to achieve the bullseye look. The size #00 can also be incorporated into use for the bullseye washers or just as a lone washer. However, if used by themselves, be careful peening them because you will easily embed the washer in softer scale material during the process. Also, the inside diameter for the #00 is around .055 as I recall and you would have to ream the hole out to a minimum of .062 to use 1/16 rod. A #51 drill bit works if I remember correctly. You can also order 1/16 nickel silver rod to go with the stainless #0 washers if you don't want yellow for pins. Nickel silver is merely white brass to simplify the nomenclature.

Stopped by Harbor Freight for some 1200 wet or dry. They had some small long nose pliers without side cutters for $1.99. I drilled them to hold pins for pre heading like someone suggested works and much easier than my idea. I will look for the wiki on the washers.

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Originally Posted by jreiter22

Ben, that is about my wedge angle. I think I will reduce the angle for the stiffer scales to reduce the strain on the pins. Is that wedge epoxied with no pin?

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Sorry, only just seen this. It's glued with waterproof PVA. No pin at the wedge end. There are photo's of it in the workshop somewhere. It wasn't everyone's cup of tea, but i liked the clean look.
If you glue & don't pin the wedge can move when you clamp & the scales move easily. You have to ensure everything remains exactly where you want it.