I just started sanding on this Wade and Butcher that I picked up today.
After the initial coat of rust was removed, I noticed a crak under the point on the front of the razor.
Is this razor doomed, or can it be saved??
thanks,
John
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I just started sanding on this Wade and Butcher that I picked up today.
After the initial coat of rust was removed, I noticed a crak under the point on the front of the razor.
Is this razor doomed, or can it be saved??
thanks,
John
I guess that crack might affect the blade's stability. Since the toe is already buggered, you might just consider shortening the blade :shrug:
It "could" be shortened and made into a different point...
I say could because it "could" just snap more too...
You can use a Dremel with a 120 grit sanding drum and go at it slowly and see what happens...
Look at some of the stuff Seraphim has done to points and Tangs in the Gallery it will give you confidence...
I have ground a half dozen blade tips and edges in the last week even though I thought and said I never would. I only had one shatter when grinding the edge but that razor already had several half moons cracked out of it. The main thing is to make sure the blade is pointed down in relation to the wheel. Wear eye protection dip in water with each pass. I grind from the center line to the spine and hand diamond file from the center to the edge. You can see the results. That razor is on eBay 160364771799. Also two others with the points rounded.
I'm a novice, but that looks like solid work to me.
Do not be to humble this site has the information, I have learned a lot by asking questions from the experts.
Sorry for not reposting sooner, had to play Dad's taxi tonight :boohoo:Quote:
Originally Posted by jreiter22
I'm gonna probably pick up a small grindstone at the local hardware store tomorrow and try to reform that front end. I hate to do that, because I loved the way this looked origionally, but I would rather do a bit of surgery and try to save the patient.
I've got a variable speed flex shaft that I'm going to use with the slowest speed. Then slowly remove the front end and go for a deep "C" cut for the front end. I'm only going to remove the least amount possible if I can.
In the meantime, I've been sanding with 220 grit wet/dry by 3M. I'm trying to take out all the vertical lines above the bevel and up at the spine of the blade. Once that's done, I'll move through my rotations of grits.
Question about sanding, Do you need to remove all the "ghost marks" from the oxidation at a lower grit before moving on to a higher grit??
thanks for all the info and the time,
John
Ok, here is the new reworked tip on the W&B.
What do you guys think??
John
edit: Glen, I took your advice and used the 120 grit sanding drum. Worked like a charm!! I just took it nice slow and easy and worked in the direction of the crack. Thanks a ton for that tip!!
Good luck navigating that thing around your nose.Quote:
Originally Posted by shutterbug
I guess I would go for a more traditional barber's notch look and shorten that top bump a bit. But that's just my aesthetic talking, you're the person who knows what you like. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparq
Didn't think of that, but then my lip hasn't seen the full light of day in almost 20 years. :D
Mr. Wade approves