Help with acrylic

Hey guys. Today I received my long-awaited shipment of acrylic blanks and eagerly set about trying to make some scales. However, I noticed that as my scroll saw cut through the acrylic, the material seemed to melt and fuse behind the saw. This posed some difficulties when I tried to separate the two halves of the block that I had just cut. I tried prying them apart with a screwdriver + hammer, which while ultimately successful, resulted in one of the halves splitting apart. So, I was wondering if any of you more experienced scalemakers had any tips/advice/strategies to deal with this problem, or for working with acrylic in general. Thanks!

You might need to run your saw on a lower speed. The cutting isn't melting them, it is the heat from the friction. A lower speed should solve the problem.

if you have band saw it will a lot easier to cut .

A slower blade speed, less teeth per inch on the blades, and a faster feed rate are the first things that I would try to lessen the melting.

Charlie

Which Acrylic blocks????

Wax or grease on the blade helps also.

Thanks for the advice guys. Maybe if I run into some extra cash I can buy a band saw, but right now my resources are limited. I don't think my scroll saw has variable speeds, but I'll look into that option. The acrylic was from Monster 1 x 6 Inch Acrylic Blanks.

What has worked for me is a ~7 " , 56 TPI blade, carbide tipped, in my tabel saw. It is specifically made for plastics and soft metals, cost $40 at Home Depot. I had some 4' x 8' sheets of acrylic,1/8". 3/16"and 1/2" thick and it worked just fine. Much better than a router or a bandsaw.

Hope this helps,:)

Most everything I have read so far is good advice....

I cut a lot of Acrylic blocks, there are basically two types, the one you have is more plastic like the other is more dry more like wood...
Anyway that's how I think about it...

I cut a ton of it, the problem with the scroll saws and band saws is the rough finish is leaves, so I gave up on them, and went to my table saw using a thin kerf carbide Diablo blade and a zero clearance plate in there, I rip then down to just over 1/8 (don't forget you have sanding to do) then work from there...

Warning: This is a DANGEROUS practice but it gives me the most and best workable blanks...

You could try sawing the blank using a thin wedge in the cut to spring it apart a little bit if your saw hasn't got variable speeds - be careful inserting the wedge - maybe saw some way into the material and stop the saw before inserting the wedge, shaped at a really shallow rather than sharp angle - it only wants to go in a little way - you can move it along after a while - and it mustn't foul the saw-bed.

Regards,
Neil.