I am removing all material that Lerch may find offensive or construe as a personal attack... bye bye, now...
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I am removing all material that Lerch may find offensive or construe as a personal attack... bye bye, now...
Thanks for the updated info Bill,
What's a good online source for the specialty drill bits?
Hey Bill, as usual, really good info.:)
I am removing all material that Lerch may find offensive or construe as a personal attack... bye bye, now...
I used the same technique and a real dentist's drill bit. It's cone shaped and (i think) diamond coated... Just ask your dentist if he has one to spare:)
Nenad
What did you put the dental drill bit into? Rotary tool or regular drill?
I picked up 50 micro drill bits on ebay for about $15, and that's with the guys F'ing me for $10 shipping when the package had $2 postage. All were regrinds and were carbide, so they don't flex or dance around. They are small enough that I've drilled directly through a pivot pin to the opposite side, though I didn't attempt this with my favorite pair of scales! Carbide tends to break easily, but at 0.30$ a peice, what the hell.
I've also got a few dozen brand new carbide dental drills and end mills which are great for cutting detailed inlay and other small projects. All are still in the original condition, some still have the wax covering the blades. If any one is interested in some, I could part with them for about $2 a piece, which is what they cost me.
I'm currently having good success using a small 2nd cut file to get almost down to the scales..the washer is then almost gone and it pops off..cut with flush cutters and gently tap out with a 1/16"flat punch. I find it much safer on celluloid scales I want to use again..no heat.
Gary
I've been meaning to pickup one of these. It's a drill & rasp set that's been retooled from the electronics industry. 50 pieces for $25 CAD. Not sure how well it'd work for removing pins, but I'm sure they'd at least come in handy elsewhere.
Them's the best. Very fragile though. high speed, you can run up to 40,000rpm for the smaller ones. I should know..we use then in PCB manufacturing. They take about 10,000 hits in our CNC machines.
Gary
ps Great price..very cheap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToxIk
I'm actually going up to Lee Valley tomorrow. Jason, if you need a ride, just say the word.
I picked up mine from Think & Tinker along with lots of other PC-board making supplies, techniques and ideas.
The only thing to watch out for with the carbide bits is that they don't flex at all. Any sideways motion and the bit will snap.
Not a big deal you say because it is only 1/guzzillionth of a dollar per bit, but consider that many times the bit will snap in the hole you are trying to drill. When that happens your hole-to-be is now plugged up with jammed in carbide.
Trying to get that bit of carbide out without ruining whatever you were drilling is an interesting experience. :td
I'll second that... Had a heck of time fixing the hole afterwards.
For the few I've done, I've just used a triangle file and filed the pin down until the washer pops off; then I punch the remaining pin thru the scale.
Are there some pins that have the washer integral with the pin so that you'd have to completely grind everything down to the scale to get it off?
I use the hand file, also. Cover the washer with masking tape, and file away. When it's almost done, open the razor all the way through, the pressure will pop off the washer.
Nenad
I cover the washer with tape and then drill out the pin using an old centrifugal Archimedean drill and a 0.8mm drill bit to start and then moving to a bit slightly smaller than the razor pin.