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I'm doing my first restore and replacing the scales with wooden scales. Unfortunately I don't know anything about protecting the wood. I see instructions in the wiki for glue and epoxy resin, but I'm curious why these seem to be the more common methods. Is there something wrong with using polyurethane or lacquer to protect the wood? What method keeps the wood looking the most natural?
The rubbed finishes look the most "natural" whether it be oil. Poly. wax or anything else if you rub the finish in IMHO that is the most natural looking...
The Wiki does not have everything BTW look through the Workshop and the Gallery for Wood scaled razors and you will find a multitude of hand rubbed finishes
Yes a rubbed oil finish will keep the wood looking natural as much as natural is in your frame of eye,
Poly can be used if you wish to have a satin, semi-gloss or high gloss finish.
For me, I like the high gloss finish with poly. I have been using Valspar high gloss water based finish for my scales. I like the look of the high gloss and how it brings the grain out. I also like the fact that the water based poly dries fast.
I guess it all depends on what look you want for the type of wood your working on. "Listen to what the wood and the blade tells you".
I won't get in to specific finishes and what they're good for...but..
The epoxy finishing is in the wiki and is talked about because, as best I can tell, it is easy and almost foolproof for people who don't know squat about wood finishing (which really is an art unto itself....oh man...) or are looking for a fast, impervious finish.
That said, I think the thick gloss epoxy coating looks cheap and ugly... yes, it is more work to use a thin film or penetrating finish and hand-rub it, and they're not *as* durable (although you wouldn't believe how those epoxies can flake if you get so much as a speck of oil from your hand on the wood first!) but they are very much worth it...
Like Glen said, there is a wealth of information in the Workshop and on the web in general about finishes, and I'm sure a lot of us would be happy to answer any specific questions...
There is a great article about using CA (superglue) here. It is the one I used, except I do more fine sanding and use a plastic bag to spread the glue instead of my finger.
Does the type of wood matter for choosing the finish?
I'm using Padauk wood (my first experience with this wood) and I notice there are fine holes throughout the grain. I don't care how long it takes to apply the finish, but I'd hate to leave the wood exposed after the amount of time I already put into creating the scales.
I don't think it mattes with a CA finish. I use it on Walnut, are there are pretty large holes through the grain on Walnut. The glue just fills them in, so the first layer or two may need to be a little heavier.
I'm not very experienced with wood working or restoration here (I in fact failed one of my shop classes in high school). So I tried to listened to the wood but didn't hear a thing, I think I need more practice listening. So I had to instead listen to my inner dumb-ass and do exactly the opposite.Quote:
Originally Posted by turbine712
My inner dumb-ass said; "get a fast drying spray can, let's get this thing finished up" So I decided on a rub on satin poly I found and plan on doing as many layers as necessary.
but I did want to thank everyone for your advice, it really did help find what I was looking for.
Just a few thoughts, I'm not an expert but I do know a few things... (Dan will probably be here soon so if he says something contradictory go with him not me)
You really can use any finish you like... I've seen guys do only wax, wipe-on poly, epoxy, CA, Varnishes, Tru-Oil (and other gun stock finishes).
I don't recall anyone using laquer, but I don't see why not (Nitro-laquer is used lots on guitars and such).
I have had good luck with using tung oil on walnut scales, epoxy, wipe on poly, spray poly, and a few combinations of each... Tung oil with a shellac wash coat, then wipe on poly is a fun finish if you have some nice grain in your wood.
I would say one thing about Epoxy finishes though since it has been brought up... I do think that epoxy is among the most durable and waterproof finishes around (although for scales I don't think it needs to be perfectly waterproof or anything), and if pulled off correctly can look anywhere from perfectly smooth glass to a beautiful satin finish ... that being said I think wipe on poly is one of the most fool proof finishes.
But really, the sky is the limit in finishing, just know the strengths and weaknesses of each finish and you'll be off to a good start.
There are a lot of finishes as its been said here already. I will say this though, Tung Oil, wipe-on poly, or Danish Oil are much easier to use IMO. However, the durability of Epoxy is great, but I found grinding down the drips to be less than easy and it can be messy. It does however look pretty neat.
To me, for beginners Tung Oil is the easiest way to finish wood and offers the person the ability to increase gloss with coats as opposed to getting the right gloss in two coats. Plus, it doesn't chip or peal like poly can if its not done right.
Just my opinion.
that ws informative and funny -- God, I love superglueQuote:
Originally Posted by DPflaumer
one more question about finishing the finish. Every time you go for another coat you are supposed to sand to even up the surface and to make sure the surface can be grabbed by the next coat (at least this is what I thought was the reason for sanding between coats).
So when you do the last coat, do you do anything to make sure the last coat is even after it dries?
You can, yes. Assuming a film-forming finish this involves wet sanding using a special lubricant and higher and higher grades of sandpaper, ending with 0000 steel wool, rottenstone, or a special rubbing compound.
I think you can probably find some good articles about this online. What you do is pretty well determined by the level of gloss you want in the final product.
Try googling 'hand-rubbing finishes' for some how-to articles.