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ok guys this is something i am having some trouble with i can make a good spacer. thats pretty easy to do. but trying to get a good bevel seems to be to much to handle. so can all you master wedge makers give us a good idea on how to do this. if you could include pictures that would be over the top. thanks again guys
Depends on what tools do you have...
I use sandpaper glued to a flat surface such as a sheet of glass (the same glass I use to lap my hones), and rub one side of the wedge until I get the taper. You may want to use sticky tape turned backwards on your finger to get a good hold on the wedge (seen that in one of Bill Ellis’s videos... I think he uses a disk sander). Then rest the finger in the center and the tapered side gets flatter, once the side is flat you will have a wedge. There is no angle to measure, but should be right when test fitting if the pivot end clear the width of the tang by about ¼” or so.
Also, I don’t work with wood, but I would assume you cannot get away with too much angle when working with wooden scales as you can with plastic… plastic is more flexible.
Just make sure you angle it steadily; if you take the work away from the sander make sure you put it back and completely re-set the angle.... you just need to avoid creating multiple bevels across the wedge.
^^Smythe: Re: Wood : Wood is quite flexible, keep in mind things like rocking chairs and boats and the bows from which arrows are fired. I've put some pretty wicked angles on my wedges.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BKratchmer
^^^^ what he said. You only need to grind one side of a flat to make the bevel. It might seem intuitive to grind both sides evenly, but that's counterproductive. Just touch up the thick side edge to square it when you cut it off.
It also helps to use a LONG piece when shaping the wedge. That way you've got plenty of material to use as a handle to keep your hands out of the way of the grinder. Make the bevel to the end, cut it off, square it and you're done.
so if i get this right i only need to grind down one side. to me that doesnt make sense. wont that be an uneven wegde.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jballs918
Only until you re-square the end.
It's true. I learned how to make mine from Bill's video, and my first one went perfectly. It seems counter intuitive, but try it and see how well it works.
hhmm that sounds way to easy i will look into it then i have a set of scales i will cut tonight thanks guys
No problem! Have fun experimenting! :D
My advice is when you figure out an easy way to do it on a full proof method, send me an email first so I can patent the idea.
I have spent more time on making a wedge than sawing and drilling wood scales.
Floppyshoes taught me a neat trick. If you have a band saw set the angle of the table to 5 degrees and run you block of wood through. What comes out won't have the wedge shape so turn your block of wood over and run it through again. What comes out the second time will be a perfect wedge.
Rich
“You ought never to take anything that don’t belong to you - if you can not carry it off” – Mark Twain
Richard,
i kinda understand what you said but a picture would be great. what would make a great thing for the wiki.
I'll see what I can do but I am somewhat tech challenged .
Rich
"There is no native criminal class except Congress,"- Mark Twain
5 degrees is perhaps a tad too much. Since showing Rich this trick I've found 3-4 degrees is more appropriate for most razors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard
Could someone possibly post pictures or give a more detailed explination of what "re-squaring" means? I can't seem to fathom the idea in my head. Everything I see comes out uneven.
Kevin
In response to this thread and other similar inquiries, I put together a wedge making tutorial that will (hopefully) help: http://straightrazorpalace.com/workshop/44690-you-can-make-wedge-icedog-method.html