Sanding Questions

I was going to post this in penguins thread but decided to create my own, because some people seem to disapprove of asking questions in someone else's thread. Maybe I'm wrong.

I started hand sanding a blade a few days ago, been at it for maybe 2.5 hours total, maybe less. I have a lot more respect for everyone who does this now. I don't know if my hands and fingers want take much more if I want to be able to play music past 45.

That said, I made an observation maybe someone else can comment?
I am sanding a Heljestrand MK 6, looks a lot like an MK32, not sure what is different about it. As I've been at it on the lowest grit I have begun to notice that the metal on the tang and the blade scratch differently. I think that means they are different metals? The tang part scratches easily and the black pits are rubbing right out, but from the shoulder towards the toe the metals doesn't scratch nearly as easily and, aside from geometric concerns and tight corners, is becoming a PITA to make any progress. Has anyone else seen this, noticed this, read about this?
I have started at 180 grit, and have 15 other grits going up to 3000, FWIW.
I can take pictures but I'm going to the park right now so it will have to wait, sorry guys.
Mad Respect to the hand sanders. All I can think about are ways to rig my dremel right now.:boohoo:

Cheers,
bassguy

Hand sanding is really hard work! I hate it & generally avoid it.
It's unlikely to be two kinds of metal, & more likely to be simply hardened less.
Helje's are pretty damn hard.
Keep the sanding as light as you can while still making progress, or the scratches will be a nightmare to get out as you move up the grits.

Hand sanding is brutal, but it works. I use my hends too, but you need to get you a block. There is great info in the Wiki. I also see you are in NY, I am in Yonkers.
Just go slow between grits.

The blade is tempered harder than the tang.

Your sandpaper. What kind is it? Not all sandpaper is good for sanding steel. You need paper made for steel sanding. I use aluminium oxide paper. If you are not using paper rated for metal, you will just waste your time. At 2 hours you are just getting started. When I am going for a mirror finish, I will go from 400 to 12000 micromesh then 4 polishing compounds on the buffing wheels. It will take me a week of evenings to get through the paper. I would guess 10-15 hours.

Thanks for the tips guys. When I go over the same spot for a while I tend to bear down, but then I remember what someone here said about honing and pressure and sidewalk chalk. The finish is coming along at this low grit, but I am taking my time to get it as close to perfect as possible before moving up the ranks. I figure the damage has to be removed at the lowest grit before moving up, yes?
My sandpaper is silicon carbide. I couldn't find ay AlumOx at the time but saw in the wiki that this stuff works well. It's making scratches for sure, I was just noticing how differently the spots on the blade react.
I am sorry I missed out on one of those razor holders for sale on the classies, maybe I'll get industrious and make my own magneto-razor-holder.

I've had good luck with these for the rough sanding.

Dremel 511E - 2pc Finishing Abrasive Buffs, EZ Lock: Widget Supply

Once you get the rust/tarnish/grunge off, the hand sanding is little more than polishing. Widget Supply (no affiliation - just a happy customer) has a whole line of abrasives for Dremel. Check them out under Polishing then Abrasive - Aluminum Oxide. They have great prices on felt buffing wheels too.