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I've filed the pins down to almost flush with the plastic and no matter how hard I bang on them with a punch, they won't budge!
The odd thing about these pins is they didn't look like the typical two-part peened pin over washer idea, but rather were just a single part, round semi-sphere at both ends.
I filed both ends and they just look like smooth circles. I really don't want to damage the scales as they're the reason I bought the razor.
Any ideas?
Ah of course, why didn't I think of it sooner: drill em out!
Sadly I only have a Dremel-type tool so drilling might not be super easy. But it's the best bet I have right now...
DO NOT DRILL WITH YOUR DREMEL!!
The bit will seek the path of least resistance....the scales, not the pin... you will wobble right into the scales and ruin them.
You NEED a drill press and some sort of jig to hold the razor, period.
Ah good point, thanks for the warning. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by BKratchmer
Unfortunately I have no drill press. Any other options?
You might try putting them in the freezer for 10 minutes or so, then GENTLY tapping the pin. This *might* damage the scales, and they'll be extra brittle cold... but it might shrink down the pin enough to slip it out.
Hmm, good idea. Could this damage the steel of the blade at all?
You can use a power tool, or you can go very slowly. Mark the center of the pin with a sharp prick punch, or a #11 exacto blade. Then use a smaller drill bit and a pin vice to slowly drill out the center part of the pin. You will not have to drill very deep. Sometimes pins will thicken flare a bit down from the washer.
You can also try heating the pin with a solder iron to soften the scales right next to the pin.
Charlie
Now that's a good thought! Keep in mind, a little melt, nick, scratch around the pin is probably okay, as you'll be putting some kind of washer around it (I assume). You have the width of this washer as a nice no-show work zone.Quote:
Originally Posted by spazola
I'd give Charlie's idea a try- he's done a lot more of these than I have!
I used the dremel with no problem. The key was to go with the center punch and to drill for only a couple seconds at a time making sure your on track needless to say a lot of start-stop-start-stop. Honestly I had more issues using the small drill press my father handed over to me. What really will help if you have to go the dremel route is to get a foot pedal switch (if you've got the corded style dremel that is). Either way with those extremely small bits on a not so even surface you'll need to choke up on the bit with the chuck to help increase the stability of the bit your using.
Lol, there's definitely a temperature theme going on here.
Okay I've come to the conclusion these are very hard pins. They must be made of steel because they're even a b**** to drill. I'm trying to drill a very small hole in the center of the pin, and at the same time I think this is causing the pin to heat up and give me that advantage as well. But these guys are hard!
This is basically the route I am going, and there seems to be some progress made, will keep you guys posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by hornm
I just took a chunk out of the pivot pin area of a beautiful DD#1 special. I am going to epoxy the hole and see if I can save the scales. It was a beautiful razor, but the blade was scrubbing and I wanted to polish it. Just turned out wrong. I tried drilling and filing to no avail and went with a punch and by the time the pin came loos, I have chipped the scales.
Be Careful. Its tough to get them out sometimes, but i usually am ok with a drill so long as I mark the center with a punch like someone suggested above.
Good luck getting those pins out! Would love to see some pictures too :D
If you have or can get one of those spring loaded punches that have adjustable pressure that helps. One handed operation to mark the pin for drilling and then you can adjust the pressure to help "walk" out the pin. You can usually get them for under $10 U.S. (mine was like 7&change)should be pretty close to the same in CA.
Hurrah! It worked!
Thanks guys--drilling was definitely the ticket. There was no way that pin was coming out just with filing and tapping. I did manage to scratch up the scales around the pivot area so I might try getting some plastic polish and buffing them out. At any rate the blade is now free and can be properly polished up independently, and I can try my hand at repinning!
I'd love to, but I'm gonna have to invest in a decent digital camera (or borrow my dad's, but I doubt he'll part with it easily). The only one I have now is from the dark ages and is best left alone. :tdQuote:
Originally Posted by avatar1999
chaiguy,
I have had similar troubles with bent pins; they are a right sod to get out :(
I now sleeve all the pivot pins holes to stop this in the future :)
Best regards
Russ
For future reference, they sell small spherical diamond burr sets that you can use to hollow out the metal. Its not as fast as drilling, but its less risky.
I've never had any trouble with removing pins by filing and tapping since I started using a jewellers anvil. This one has a hole about the same size as most pin heads so only one side needs to be filed. Because the scales is supported all the way around the pin there is very little chance for the scales to crack or break. As for a punch I use a cheap jewellers screw driver filed to a point.
Using this method with these tools I don't have to rely on tapping, but can hit it a bit harder if need be.
That's a great idea--what do you use to sleeve the holes?Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatMan
Is this the sort of thing you're talking about, Nathan?Quote:
Originally Posted by ndw76
Horn Anvil On Base Jewelers Tools Jewelry Tool NIB on eBay.ca (item 110454445819 end time 13-Nov-09 00:17:39 EST)
Chaiguy,
I have found the easiest material to use is the plastic pipes that come with aerosol cans. It cuts easily, and is self-lubricating.
You have to search about a bit to find ones with the correct outside and inside diameters.
Others use brass/copper tube.
Best regards
Russ
What I have found is that the pivot holes can be of different sizes. Therefore I have used JB Weld and fill the pivot hole, sand it flush and re drill it to the size I want. Saves a lot of figuring out on what size tube I need.
Yeah, that's the one that I use.Quote:
Originally Posted by chaiguy