Sanding Block Experiment

So I decided to attempt an experiment with a sanding device I put together today. The following is how I constructed it and the results of the test. Keep in mind this test is very basic and not entirely conclusive. If anyone can tell me a better way to test this device, let me know and I will see what I can do.

Construction..

1. Started with a 1" wooden dowel, shaped a tip and bored out a hole in the back. (picture 1)

2. Yes that is what you think it is, lets try to be adult about it. This particular model is called "Tickle Me, Baby", it has 4 speeds and is water proof (not that I needed water proof, I think they all come that way). (picture 2).

3. Picture 3 is the device put together with a piece of sandpaper held on with a rubber band.

A couple issue to consider while making this item:
-If the wood tip is too long it will absorb some of the vibrations making it less effective.
-I chose an adult device because these are designed to have a smooth vibration as opposed to a hardware store sander. I figured this will be a bit more gentle/safer for razors.
-I tried creating a wood tip with slits in the back to make a collet style grip on the motorized device, and an interchangeable rubber tip. Both these features absorbed vibrations from the device making it less effective.
-The closer the motor is to the tip, the more vibration you will get, the further you grasp it away from the tip, the more vibration you will get.

The following are pictures described above, I will add another post following this one with a simple test I did with the device...

I used a small piece of aluminum to test the sander. I know this is softer than steel and may not give as accurate results, I was just using what I had around.

For this entire test when turning the device on I always used maximum speed, I also used wD40 to lubricate the sandpaper (hearing dry sandpaper on dry metal makes me want to punch babies).

I started by using the device (turned on) to sand the entire surface with 400grt sandpaper. I made sure to sand until there was no doubt that each surface was as evenly sanded as possible. I used sharpie on the surface so I could see how fast the paper cut on both tests. (pictures 1 & 2)

I then changed to 600grt sandpaper and sanded both sections evenly (using new paper for each). Using 50 strokes (1 stroke being an up and down motion). The side labeled with the - I sanded with the device on, the side labeled with the O was sanded with the device off.
I attempted to take multiple angles of the results and left the pictures at original size to try to show how the results differed. The WD40 cleaned off the sharpie marks so you will not be able to see those results (pictures 3-5)


Observations

You will notice by the pictures that my tip may not be perfectly flush considering how thin the area sanded is on the section sanded with the device off. However, it appears sanding with the device on made up for this issue as you can see the sanded area is wider in this section.

I also noticed sanding with the device on seemed to remove the sharpie marks faster (not pictured) but my opinion on this could be compromised because I did build the device.

Sanding with the device on seemed more soothing on my hand and wrist due to the vibrating/messaging action. Granted over a long period of time this benefit could become a detriment as I'm sure many of us know the feeling of prolonged use of an orbital sander.

I will let you judge if this device would save enough sanding stroke during a restore to be worth building one for yourself.

I hope this experiment has been in some way helpful and I am (as always) open to suggestions for improvement.

What a fascinating concept! Ingenious to say the least. When you get around to testing this thing on a razor please post results.

Looks like your on to something there..keep us posted!

I got some fun foam from Michael's to add to the tip (between wood and sandpaper) to get better contact with the sand paper, seems to have worked. I've used this sander on a blade and I think I used too much pressure in my tests. Just like and orbital sander, simply guide the tool around and let the vibration do the work.

I really like the way it works and it keeps me from using too much pressure on the blade. With the right grit sand paper it removes red rust like some magic eraser. I'll have pictures coming soon of my first restore using this tool.

That's a great idea, & i hope you get good results with it. I HATE hand sanding!

However...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheBaron;489224[B

2.[/B] Yes that is what you think it is, lets try to be adult about it.

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:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2::rofl2:

Sorry. I had to get that off my chest.

Very cool idea. I like your experiment. Keep us posted :D

For those of you keeping up on this thread/experiment, here is the first blade I restored using this vibrating sanding block...

http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...al-scales.html

It seemed to save time using this tool, but I've only done 3 restores so far (only 1 of them with this sanding block). Not a very big sample size for conclusive results IMO.

Why/how did you figure the tickler would have a smooth vibration? I'd think the cheapest vibration motor would be the old style cell phone one, just an unbalanced weight on a swing. Is it really smoother than an oscillating sander?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IanS

Why/how did you figure the tickler would have a smooth vibration? I'd think the cheapest vibration motor would be the old style cell phone one, just an unbalanced weight on a swing. Is it really smoother than an oscillating sander?

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how to answer those questions...

I could not find and oscillating sander that I could put a tip on for the type of work I was doing. Sanding into a hollow grind means your sanding tip needs to be shaped similar to a finger (at least all the ones I've seen in our wiki and in the restore section look that way). I've also had my hands on many different sanders and the vibration seemed a little more violent to me. Maybe there's a model out there I don't know about, feel free to clue me in if you know one.

I considered a cell phone motor but I was afraid the vibration (depending on cell phone model) would be too light. That would also require dissecting the phone, pulling out the motor then calculating and wiring power. The work seemed a bit over involved when I could just as easily go get an adult toy and drill a hole to put it in.

As far as knowing what type of vibration an adult toy would have. Well, that has to do with my ex and some stories you probably don't want me to repeat. We'll just leave it at that.

**EDIT**
I should probably add that the adult toy I am using for this experiment is brand new and never been used for its intended purpose in any way.

Since I have done two successful restores with my sanding block I figured it was time to revisit this thread and spend some time updating my info and changes on this device.

First off, I just made some new tips for the sanding block that I will be using in the future (Picture 1). The tip on the right is my original tip the other rounded tip I will use for wider hollows and the one on the left is for flat surfaces (maybe for when I get a wedge to restore).

That black stuff on the tips is not sand paper, that is fun foam. I started using fun foam on the tip to not only cushion it a bit but it also smooths out any imperfections in the shape of your tip. Fun foam can be purchased at craft stores like Michael's and is good when you need a thin layer of foam (I use it on my vice sometimes to protect the finish on my work). It comes in sheets about the size of a piece of paper (just a little thicker) and can be purchased with and without sticky back for under $1. (picture 2). The fun foam will need to be replaced after some time because keeping the sand paper wet will wear on the foam, I keep a sheet in the drawer and cut off a new piece as needed.

Finally, as these sanding tips I made are 1" wide, someone found me a nice gift at harbor freight. I is a box of sand paper rolls that are 1" thick. I have not used this stuff yet, but a 1" wide Alum Ox sandpaper dispenser that I can just cut off and use on my block. Sounds about perfect to me (Picture 3).

Very good ideas, I'm new to making a restoration attempt myself and see how this could save a lot of time. I'm curious though if the wooden tip needs to be anything that advanced or if you could get by with fashioning something from tin sheeting and wrap in the fun foam.

I imagine anything that transfers vibration from the motor to the sandpaper would work as a tip. I used wood dowel because I could cut a chunk off, drill a hole, shape the tip with a sander and be ready to go pretty quickly. This wood is also pretty light, I dunno if tin would weigh more and absorb some of the vibration.

I would love to see someone else attempt to make one of these and experiment with the tips as well. Possibly get some ideas to improve the tip and maybe get some corroborating evidence on the function of the device as well. One member already PMed me a few days back and is looking into building one, maybe get some more date on the project in the future from a second source.

After all this doesn't have to be MY experiment, it could be OUR experiment, seems like the best way if we really want to test the value of the idea.

SRP seems to be quite a pool of creativity, I just throw ideas in the pool to see what floats.