What kind of tools required for restore a blade.

:)Hi all,
Please tell me what kind of tools are used for restoration of a blade. If possible please post some picture and site where i find all these things.

Regards:)

Start here

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...storation.html


That will give you some great ideas


This sticky is at the begining of the Workshop forum we put it there for a reason, you might want to read it..
There is quite a bit of info in it...

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Tahnks man, i read the thread. i am just thiking about my razor restoration which i would like to do myself. please let me know some hand tools.

4000-2/30 rotary tool kit..

Picture:
http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/MDMC...3/r03387v3.jpg

Includes

* Dremel 4000 High Performance Rotary Tool
* Circle Cutter/Straight Edge Guide
* Sanding/Grinding Guide
* Storage Case
* Quick Start Book
* 191 High Speed Cutter
* 401 Mandrel
* 402 Mandrel w/ Screw
* 407 Coarse 1/2" Sanding Drum
* 408 1/2" 60 Grit Sanding Band (2)
* 411 3/4" Sanding Disc, 180 grit (3)
* 412 3/4" Sanding Disc, 220 grit (3)
* 413 3/4" Sanding Disc, 240 grit (2)
* 414 Felt Polishing Wheel
* 420 Heavy Duty Emery Cut-Off Wheel (2)
* 421 Polishing Compound
* 426 1-1/4" Fiberglass-Reinforced Cut-Off Wheel (2)
* 428 Carbon Steel Brush
* 429 1" Felt Polishing Wheel
* 432 1/2" 120 Grit Sanding Band (2)
* 445 1/2" 240 Grit Sanding Band (2)
* 541 Aluminum Oxide Grinding Wheel
* 561 MultiPurpose Cutting Bit
* 84922 Silicon Carbide Grinding Stone
* 90962 Wrench
* 932 Aluminum Oxide Grinding Stone

Is this enough...

youll do pretty good with a veriety of sandpaper grits, and it gives you more of a feell with your blade, youll do it real good with a rotary tool. and fast too.. but.. not as much "quality time" with your razor before you use it.
i personally spent close to 30 hours hand sanding, and fine polishing the blade, plus another ten honing a nasty chip out of the blade

I own a dremel with accessories myself but I find it pretty expensive in use (the accessories that is), at least if you plan to restore a lot of razors. At the moment I'm actually using sandpaper of different grids but that's verrry slow and I don't think too healthy (repetitive stress syndrome or how do you call this in English). So I now bought some buffing wheels I can just use on my electric drill machine.

Additionally to the restoration forum, which is the main source of information for you, we have also amalgamated a few threads into illustrated tutorials in the restoration section of the Wiki.

Here is a sure fire equation for disaster, but don't take my word for it look through the workshop at the pics...

Razor + Dremel + inexperience = Broken razor or injured restorer...

This are great tools in experienced hands, wonderful polishers, but as you browse the Workshop forum you will see plenty of threads about disasters with them...
For a begining restorer I always recommend hand sanding/polishing to start, then progress from there....

Patience is probably the best tool for a newbie restorer. It will take far longer than you expect to get a blade shiny. It would be best to ditch the dremel and do the first one or two by hand, at least then you get the process down without the mistakes that can easily be made with a dremel. Plus, there is very little chance of having a wavy finish when you hand sand.

Take the above advice and it should answer all of your questions. There was a thread started not too long ago for pictures of restoration workshops here:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...shop-pics.html

I'm still pretty new and posted my basic setup in that thread. Sandpaper will be your best bet at cleaning things up -- I use a range from 400- to 2000-grit which I buy locally at AutoZone. The Dremel is a good all-around tool but as Glen noted, at those speeds it's easy to destroy the blade and possibly injure yourself. If you opt for the Dremel then make sure you're careful around the razor's edge, wear safety equipment, and always be aware of the Dremel's spin direction in relation to the razor.

For removing blades from scales I use a small file on the old pins until they can be popped out with a hammer and 1/16" punch. I recently got a few razors that didn't have any washers and had to drill through the pins to remove them. In my newbie opinion, removing old scales is the hardest part of beginner restoration because the scales can be brittle and the pins could be rusted/bent. I thought I was being cautious when I started and then broke a scale, so now I'm really cautious. :)

Repinning can be made easy with Microfasteners, which are tiny machine screws and nuts. They worked great for me before I started learning how to peen. Another good wiki article on it here:
Adjustable Pins aka Microfasteners - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Hope that helps.

Thank you all seniors,
The valuable information and suggestion is help me to improve my restoration skill.
If i tried with sand paper (What grain?) whether it will water or not. I have a stand drilling machine. can it be used as buffing?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hothotpot

If i tried with sand paper (What grain?) whether it will water or not. I have a stand drilling machine. can it be used as buffing?

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With all due respect, do you actually read the information you are given here? Grit sizes are here: Hand sanding a blade - Straight Razor Place Wiki. Anything that rotates is a recipe for disaster in the hands of an amateur. Do not use a drilling machine for buffing. Use sandpaper.

Electric tools, such as Dremel, are not necessary, but they will make the work faster. Depending of the condition of the blades, you need sand paper (180 - 2000) and some oil. Polishing paste for finishing. You might also need some tool for restoring the scales, but it is up to the material the scales are made of.