Washer Jig Update and more jigs (long post)
Warning: Long post.
I have been updating my washer making setup from the last time I posted about it (My First Scales: ... ). I won't repeat the info in this post. Instead I will only describe the changes.
http://www.winpte.com/str8/WasherJig2.jpg
Pic#1,2,3: Washer compression vise. Used to make washers like this:
http://www.winpte.com/str8/WasherGear.jpg
I made this jig when I wanted to fancy up the washer used in the violin and had no way to hold the little bastards down for the notching.
I place a finished washer into it like in picture 1 (unfortunately I was too lazy to make a domed washer for the photo and used a flat one that I already had). Then lay the jig alternately on each face and use a cutter wheel to cut a notch in the washer. I use the notches in the center of each face and the center of the pin as two reference points for lining up the cutter wheel. (This is where a pedal control helps, the lining up is easier with the motor not running.)
Pic 2 shows the components (from left to right) 2" 5/16" carriage bolt, 1.5" 5/16" nut, 3/8" length of eraser with 1/16" hole drilled through it, about 1/4" of 5/16" bolt with 1/16" hole drilled through it, about 5/16" of brass 3/32" tube (I.D. 1/16"), about 3/4" long brass rod 1/16" O.D. and peened heavily on one end.
In the background is the eraser refill which was used for the compression part of the vise and the eraser holder.
Pic 3 shows a blow up view.
The way to use it:
1. Loosen the carriage bolt.
2. Insert the washer on the pin as far as it will go (the end is conical due to heavy peening).
3. Slide on the pin the 3/32" tube.
4. Insert he pin into the hole in the front of the vise. Tap lightly with a hammer to make sure the brass tube sits firmly against the washer, this prevents the washer coming loose.
5. Tighten the carriage bolt. This compresses the eraser (use rubber if you have it) and since it has nowhere to go it winds up compressing the pin inserted into it holding it tight.
I get 12 reference points on circumference of the washer: 6 centers of faces and 6 corners of the of the hex nut.
Pic#4: Some additional helpers
The two 1/2" rods with 1/16" hole which goes right through. I use these to peen 1/16" brass rod. That way I only have to peen one end of the pin in the razor. Reduces stress. I have two lengths, one for normal pins and the other for the theme scales which have one end of the scales thicker. (Stratocaster & Violin pivot)
These are also useful for knocking out the pin from a freshly minted washer using the jig in original post. In that post I used pliers but got tired of extra needed dexterity.
I also made a new conical mandrel to sand the washers from a carbide bit. I cut off the bit and ground shank into the shape by putting the bit into the handset (flexshaft) and shaping it while spinning against a stone in the dremel.
I used a cutting wheel and made grooves along the shaft (at the tip) to give it a little more bite into the washer, this makes it harder for the washer to spin through while sanding.
I used a 3/32" shaft because it fits into my quickchange handset. You can use a 1/8" shaft if that fits your tool better. This replaces the tiny ground screw in the original post (pic#11 & 12)
Instead of using my thumb to hand sand the washer I use a small square stick, sharpened with a pencil sharpener. Just slide the washer as far as it will go, snip off the wood that sticks out and sand the washer.
The stick is really one of those extra long fire place matches, I keep a box in my work area just in case I need a wooden rod.
The next change is the way I cut the 3/32" tubes and 1/16" rods. I found it to be a real PITA to use a knife to cut the tubes. If you don't line up the blade exactly perpendicular to the axis when you roll the tube to cut it you get a nice spiral up or down the tube. Plus, if the knife slips off the tube it makes a nasty gash in whatever is below.
Here is a much easier way:
http://www.winpte.com/str8/TubeRodCutter.jpg
This is a compact copper tube cutter available in any reasonable hardware store in the plumbing section, it accepts 1/8" to 7/8" O.D. tubes and is used for those tight areas when you need to cut existing plumbing. I've had it for years but never used it for its intended purpose.
I modified it to work with 3/32" and 1/16" diameter tubes/rods by putting a piece of 1/8" brass tube between the rollers and attaching it with brass wire. The 1/8" tube prevents the smaller diameters from falling through.
I now cut the tube for washers by putting one end of the tube into my flexshaft handset and the other into the tube cutter. Use very slow speed to turn the tube while tightening the cutter bolt. The tube is cut in a couple of seconds, clean, easy and every time.
I will be adding a stopper screw to it so that I can cut identical lengths without hassles.
The same method is used to cut the 1/16" brass rod to make pins. The cut is clean and slightly domed. This eliminates the need to file the end before peening as you would have to if you used flush cutters.
I hope you found this post useful. If you are interested I can post about:
1. "micro table saw" made from 3/4" x 3/4" x 8" plastic square rod and a cutting wheel in flexshaft handset which I used to cut exact depth slits in the wood for the frets in the Stratocaster scales.
2. "micro rolling mill" made from two small bearings, 2 1" 5/16" bolts, 4 pieces of plexiglass and a small table vise. I used it to flatten brass wire into ribbon for the Strat frets and the brass rod into flat rod for the frame of the violin box.
