Maybe a dumb question but im new

First just want to say I love this site. Very helpful!

Now to the reason of this post. I just bought this Boker Razor from an antique store today for $6 because there's a chip in the blade. I got it just to have cuz i thought it looked cool. But after thinking about it i was just wondering if it would be possible to bring it from a 5/8 to a 4/8 which SEEMS to be just above the crack thats next to the chip. Like I said, dumb question, but I love the feel and weight of this one so just thought I would ask.
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Also got another one. This one says EDV NEISTROM ESKILSTUNA SWEDEN.
Theres a tiny chip on the blade but its so far back i was wondering if it could still be honed and have no problem with shaving?
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These are all the ones i picked up today
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I would like to support you by saying that there is no such thing as a dumb question. You will always find help on SRP.

Yes, it is possible. I suggest you read this thread:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ped-edges.html

First off, no power tools.
Watch the the stabiliser area near the heal as
it will get in the way of setting a bevel.

For starters you should always shave with a clean edge that's free of any nicks, cracks or chips, how tiny they may be. The risk of getting scarred for life is not worth it. The edge will always be the most important part of your straight razor.

The biggest challenge with that boker is that you'll need to grind away lots of steel, damaging the stabilizer. You'll also completely change the original grind. Even if you do safely succeed to grind it to a 4/8, be prepared to spend countless hours trying to get a decent shaving edge. Personally I'd skip, it's not worth the trouble but if you like a challenge nobody says you can't try.

I would go with Max's advice. He's restored many razors and ought to know what will work and what will not. The Boker is salvageable, but doing so will be time-consuming and the end result may not be worth the effort.

IMHO, I would focus my attention on the Swedish razor in your repertoire. It appears to have the best possibility of being honed into a decent shaver.

Just my 2 cents.

The only stupid question is the one that you don't ask. Max is a pro, listen to his advice. The Sweedish blade would be the first one to mess with if I were you. As a side note, I have busted/broken two out of three boker scales just like the ones you have, so if you do unpin them be cautious in your approach as they are somewhat fragile at the pivot point.

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Originally Posted by Maximilian

For starters you should always shave with a clean edge that's free of any nicks, cracks or chips, how tiny they may be. The risk of getting scarred for life is not worth it. The edge will always be the most important part of your straight razor.

The biggest challenge with that boker is that you'll need to grind away lots of steel, damaging the stabilizer. You'll also completely change the original grind. Even if you do safely succeed to grind it to a 4/8, be prepared to spend countless hours trying to get a decent shaving edge. Personally I'd skip, it's not worth the trouble but if you like a challenge nobody says you can't try.

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Wut he said. This is not worthwhile to do by hand.

Thank you all for the quick responses. I think Im just gong to go ahead and leave it be maybe try on the Swedish or my other one from Geneva Cutlery which the blade seems to be perfect on.

+1 to what everybody else said. Have you been shaving with a straight razor ? If not you might be better off sending the Swede out to a honemeister and beginning to practice restores on razors you come across down the road. Welcome to SRP. :gl:

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

+1 to what everybody else said. Have you been shaving with a straight razor ? If not you might be better off sending the Swede out to a honemeister and beginning to practice restores on razors you come across down the road. Welcome to SRP. :gl:

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I have not yet had the pleasure of shaving with a SR. But I look forward to it :D

now one more question. Looking at the Geneva Razor, it seems that in certain spots the "chrome" is coming off.:thinking: Is this bad? The Blade it self IMO looks GREAT though.
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Originally Posted by prezdead

I have not yet had the pleasure of shaving with a SR. But I look forward to it :D

now one more question. Looking at the Geneva Razor, it seems that in certain spots the "chrome" is coming off.:thinking: Is this bad? The Blade it self IMO looks GREAT though.
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That is not chrome. You've got a bit of corrosion there. If you've never shaved with a straight razor you really should send one out to be honed properly. That will not only give you something to shave with but a benchmark to compare to if you intend to hone your own razors. There is a learning curve in both shaving and honing so it would be advisable to have one or two pro honed to start.

If you decide to abandon the Boker, I'd be happy to purchase it from you if the scales are in good shape (i.e., no cracks, chips, etc). I have a Red Injun that would look great with those scales. PM me if you decide to part with her.

Warm regards,

Larry

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

That is not chrome. You've got a bit of corrosion there. If you've never shaved with a straight razor you really should send one out to be honed properly. That will not only give you something to shave with but a benchmark to compare to if you intend to hone your own razors. There is a learning curve in both shaving and honing so it would be advisable to have one or two pro honed to start.

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I had planned on sending them out I def wouldnt trust my self with honing one and then trying to shave with it :rofl2:

Now is the corrosion a bad thing or can that be taken care of? Im guessing the best thing to do is just have it restored rather than just honed?

And Larry
Ill have to think bout it. These are the first ones I bought, so kinda attached to it lol.

When you send it out to be honed, the honemeister can most likely remove that rust/corrosion with some very fine grit sandpaper or some metal polish (MAAS).

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Originally Posted by jhenry

When you send it out to be honed, the honemeister can most likely remove that rust/corrosion with some very fine grit sandpaper or some metal polish (MAAS).

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Do let the honemeister know that this is what you want.
Some would give it a rub with MAAS but few would pull
out sandpaper or put it on the buffer unless asked.

Keep the razor lightly oiled so no additional rust develops.
I have some pistol cleaning patches on my shopping list
so I can use a patch to rub some MASS then oil on my
too gray but favorite daily shaver to brighten it up.

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Originally Posted by prezdead

And Larry
Ill have to think bout it. These are the first ones I bought, so kinda attached to it lol.

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No worries, prezdead. I understand how you feel!

[QUOTE=prezdead;579327]I have not yet had the pleasure of shaving with a SR. But I look forward to it :D

now one more question. Looking at the Geneva Razor, it seems that in certain spots the "chrome" is coming off.:thinking: Is this bad? The Blade it self IMO looks GREAT though.

As Jimmy said it is not chrome but I have seen the odd one with a nickel plated tang. Nickel is also the first coat before gold plating. It is very hard & durable but once the rust gets under it it will flake off like chrome.

I didn't know this...thanks!!

[QUOTE=onimaru55;579664]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by prezdead

I have not yet had the pleasure of shaving with a SR. But I look forward to it :D

now one more question. Looking at the Geneva Razor, it seems that in certain spots the "chrome" is coming off.:thinking: Is this bad? The Blade it self IMO looks GREAT though.

As Jimmy said it is not chrome but I have seen the odd one with a nickel plated tang. Nickel is also the first coat before gold plating. It is very hard & durable but once the rust gets under it it will flake off like chrome.

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yea it really only seems to be the tang to. But doesnt look like theres any rust just flaking but i could be wrong. Just gotta wait til i have the money to be able to send it out and also get a strop.

Thanks again for all the help yall!

one more thing whats a good oil to use? I tried to search oil but nothing came up

As for oil. I think most use Camellia oil, Ballistol, Mineral oil,WD 40. etc etc. I'm sure there are others. Just don't use anything not originally meant for steel

I use an Aussie made WD spray called 'Inox'. It's food safe so I use it on my carbon steel kitchen knives too but Camellia smells nice :)

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

As for oil. I think most use Camellia oil, Ballistol, Mineral oil,WD 40. etc etc. I'm sure there are others. Just don't use anything not originally meant for steel

I use an Aussie made WD spray called 'Inox'. It's food safe so I use it on my carbon steel kitchen knives too but Camellia smells nice :)

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Great, thank you!