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Here is one of the razors in my SCORE ... but it's got 2 cracks that may ruin it completely, or not...
I've been seeing a few grind aways lately that may aply to this one. Can the heel be ground away even with the tang and arched down to remove the cracks? Still leaving quite enough blade to be useful :)
What are your thoughts?
I got a razor off eBay a few weeks back that looked like it just had chips, but there was actually a small crack as well, about the same size as the ones on your razor.
I'm about half way through honing it out with a 325 DMT and loads of tape and so far (fingers crossed!) it seems to be working!
I'd regrind the heel , the cracks are a bit too far in for my taste but I think you will still have a serviceable edge.
Personally, I would grind the heel away like you sugested. Just be VERY carefull doing it, I've done it a couple of times and it's worked out well.
I'd say to grind it out... it will be a bit weird if you just grind it out to the cracks though (IMHO). I'd make it a shoulderless grind with a wicked profile (along the lines of Glen's wade de butcher etc.)
would make it useable if the crack does not spread
Here is a pic of the grind I'm thinking of, ya turning it into a shoulderless. Heck it's broke now so the chopping may save it from drawer fodder or the recycle drawer...
I am laughing so hard right now.
I too bought a W&B and it too has the exact same crack in the exact same spot.
Was not visible in any of the pictures when I bid.
Even so, the seller no longer lists on eBay and all the pics of the sale have been removed. The knew it was cracked but I'm screwed now.
Oh well. I'm going to sharpen it into a letter opener.
+1 for this.Quote:
Originally Posted by L R Harner
If the crack doesn't spread i would just sharpen it and take a few test shaves and be happy with it. I would remove and reshape the blade only if the crack would become a problem.
I had to do this to my W+B too. I carried on and took out the shoulders too, makes for a more consistant look IMO, though its a hell of alot of work matching the hollowness smoothly.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...tml#post572590
Ya these two crack are like someone tried to use it as a screwdriver, the inside section is displaced. All I have is a dremmil but I may be able to get use of a mill (need to learn to use it anyway :p ) Securing the razor for the mill would take me more time than I have right now to think about it... Off to work :p
That must just be a surface scratch at the spine in line with the larger crack at the edge? If it were a crack also at the spine, it looks like the whole blade could snap in half. Can you see what I'm talking about?Quote:
Originally Posted by DwarvenChef
Chris L
Best I can tell at the moment is that the crack ends at the top of the black mark. I don't have my loop available so 5x only shows me it ending there... Ya if the crack extends much past the tang level I'm calling it dead... that would be a shame as I'm getting rather attached to the shape of this thing :p
I've seen more than one turn-of-the-century razor that was deliberately made with the length of a full-size straight, but only with as much blade as a double-edge safety razor. About an inch and a bit. Robert Williams has made at least one such razor by request. I suspect this was because there are some shavers who find the 3.5+inch blade intimidating. I know I did when I started; my first razor was a brand-new Henckels in 2000 (they were still making them back then) that was at least half an inch shorter than standard, though of course the material was left off the toe.
The razors I'm talking about have a short blade hanging way out on the end of a full-size spine with about three inches of space between shoulder and pivot.
In other words, I'm sayin' that shortening a razor from the heel can actually make a more desirable razor for some people. I'm already shortening razors from the toe when they're cracked at that end, then fitting custom scales to make a "petite." I get plenty of bidders on those.
Would this be ok on a dremmil? Or would a belt grinder be better? Dremmil I my beable to handle But I don't have the belt monster yet.
I would assume the cracks should be stableized prior to grinding, use the cutting wheel to gring the crack away... Or am I just adding work where it's not needed?
I think you'd need to sneak up on the cracks from behind. Don't attack them from the belly of the blade, that would make them grow. Start at the shoulder and would toward them.
You could do the work with a Dremel, but you'd go through a lot of grinding bits or sanding drums.
Makes sence to me.
yep keeping the vibration to a min will help keep the crack from running