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This is the third set of scales that i have done the same thing to. Am i cutting the blanks in the incorrect direction from the block? Not enought space around pin, scales not thick enough [there just under an 1/8th" :confused: I have been using the 3/4 x 3/4 x 6" pen blocks from woodcraft. Here are some pick of whats happening. Any and all comments will be welcome. [ unless your gunna call me an idget ]
This is also before the pins were tight
Attachment 42311
Attachment 42312
Can you tell me a couple of measurements????
How thick are the scales???
what size are the pins???
what size are the holes you drilled through the scales????
Is the wedge pin set???
is it tight or just set???
the washer in the pic does not look flat on the bottom against the scales is it???
washers actually have two sides one is flat and one is ever so slightly rounded the flat side goes down the rounded side goes up...
is there an inner bearing washer???
What size rod are you using for your pins and what size of hole are you drilling?
I cracked several sets of scales before someone (Glen IIRC) told me to use a 3/32" drill bit for my 1/16" rod. I had been using a 1/16" bit and cracked every set that I made.
Answers within your quote
Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
From what you're saying then I gotta go with the size of the hole, also set your wedge pin first. then the pivot,,,, then tighten wedge then tighten pivot...
The size I drill at is 5/64 FWIW it leaves just enough play room.... also keep in mind those rods we use are not exact there is a bit of variance... I would bet most of that is toward the thick side... As you peen the pin if it swells or bends even the slightest bit it will crack the scale...
There are other ways to do this I am sure but this is the most successful way I have found...
Ps: all this assumes you are gently tapping the pins....If you put yer finger on the anvil, and tap it with the hammer right at the cuticle of yer fingernail, and it hurts, yer tapping to hard...
Pss; Practice with Popsicle sticks it is very tasty, and good practice at not cracking the scales...:)
I can also see that the washer is bent inwards and looks a bit like funnel.
Is it possible that you hit too hard while pinning on top of other considerations mentioned by Glen?
I've never drilled my own scales, but I have noticed that the 1/16 drill bit I use to depin always fits through the holes in vintage scales with a little wiggle room. So I think the bigger hole must be for a reason. I'd try that, as Glen recommended, and see what happens.
Yea, That looks like what I did to some beautiful Olive wood, purple heart and Koa...I finally lightened my tap enough when I heard some say try "doing it like you are hitting it with a tablespoon"....
Thanks for the tips, it probably is the holes as i had to use a little force to get the pin in the hole of the scales. I did the hammering of the finger thingy just before i peen pins to get the motion down. Diabetic so i will have to skip the popsickles.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Thanks again Glen:beer2:
Thank you to all for the input seems like most agree it's the hole size will try again.
Does anyone think i could salvage them with superglue? Aah heck it's only 2 bucks worth of wood, start over.
This is what they were supposed to look like without break and front microfastener
Attachment 42319
Looks like a cool design. The blade doesn't stick out the bottom at that "notch" does it? Looks like it might but I can't really tell.
No it would not have stuck out past the bottom, because if it was opened a little more you could see the blade has been reshaped because of corrosion and is accually about an inch shorted at the heal and although it looks like the blade is larger than the scales in the pic it is not.Quote:
Originally Posted by holli4pirating
I just got some brass rod the other day that was HARD, I mean really hard! Annealed it and it was fine, but I was tapping, tapping, tapping & never seemed to be making any progress...
Quote:
Originally Posted by paco
I would start over before I tried to reglue them. If I HAD to reglue them because it was something that could not be replaced, I'd use Titebond.
Goog
I would keep the grain logitudinal to disperse the forces better - but I'm no expert. Or perhaps a polyurethane or cyanoacrelate finish to stabilise the timber.
glen is right , I would drill the holes slightly larger. Ide also use stabilized wood as it takes more abuse and make sure you use nickle silver pins. Theypeen much easier than SS . You can use brass either will work just fine . I have cracked knife handles theat were snug ,they cracked 3 weeks after just from moisture in the air from swelling.
If you are using brass rod for the rivets, as was noted above - anneal the brass. For most purposes, brass is annealed to still retain a bit of spring at a temperature of 670 F. If you want to make it dead soft, which may be a good idea here, get it to red heat. You can let it air cool or quench it - that matters not as it's the heat-to point that's critical. File the ends of the rivets flat if you cut them with a nipper to make the peening easier and better looking.
good luck :beer2:
Cut out another set today, drilled pivot hole larger and annealed brass as suggested, worked fine. THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE ASSISTANCE.:mexwave:
