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Here is another antique shop find. A nice W&B Extra Hollow Ground 5/8. It really was a mess when I picked it up! I have been hand sanding using micro mesh and going easy around the etching as I want to preserve it.
Can anyone give me some tips on not messing up the etching, but removing the rust? I may have to drop down to 200 wet /dry.
I think this is going to b a fantastic razor when cleaned up properly and I am sure will be a fantastic shave when honed up.
Richard
I'm very new at this as well, but I did want to say to be careful when you're using different amounts of sanding in different locations on the blade. I tried this to protect the etching on one of my blades as well, however due to the amount of sanding the rest of the blade needed the end result was small differences in the amount of sanding that came up to the spine of the blade. The drawback of this being that the blade now doesn't sit flat on a hone... Since then I've resolved that once I'm going to do any amount of serious sanding to a blade I'll do it uniformly across the face of each side. But that's just my policy now, maybe someone with more experience can tell you how to get the best of both worlds.
Questions on sanding may get more attention in the Workshop forum.
Post your question there and include the pic.
Nice find on the razor.:)
Moved to the Workshop!!!!
Adjusts his Mod Cape and flies away :):)
OK
4 things that I know of that can happen here...
1.You sand and sand and sand and either the etch is deeper or the pits are deeper... "Murphy's law of Restore says that the pits usually are"
2. You use the tumbler method which cleans the entire blade bright and shiny but leaves the pits just like they were before, just brighter and shinier...
3. You use a buffer with the same outcome as sanding, only faster...
4. You use the buffer but cover the etch with CA and paper and buff around it,,, Don't know the outcome, I haven't tried it yet...
Hope that helps...
I was just working on one simular to that and this is what I did
I use a dremel and made the sanding rolls the lowset grit I used was 1200 it will not take out everything but also doesnt remove a lot of metal either. Used a light touch on slowest speed. then 1500 grit and finally 2000 grit. Flitz polish buff it out. Looks alot better and still have all the etching :)
Thanks for moving my post and for the help . Looks like I have have some work to do on this razor. Sadly the rust is on some of the etching so I may have to leave some . It will be a bit of a challenge , but I am up to it It should be a good shaver in anycase. The dremel will be next on the list to buy.
I am in no hurry to restore this.. I'll take my time and if anything , it will be a good one to learn about restoring before I do some of my really good ones.
If you are going to use a dremel, just be careful. It is very easy to leave a 'dip' in the blade from a momentary pause in motion. If you are using a sufficiently high grit, it may not be a problem. But, you could also end up with a mirror finish that it fit for a house of mirrors from all the dips and valleys you've got into the blade.
I'm going to quote Glen here; "A restoration rushed is a razor ruined"
That is why I said a light touch on slow speed. Also Toxik made an excelent toutorial on making the sanding rolls you can find it Tox|k's homemade sander tubes
edit for spelling