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Probably asked a thousand times,and if I trawl through the posts maybe I will find...would like to remove pins from a 4 set of razors,very fragile bone handles,so before I go for a polish and clean up I would like to remove the blade
It will probably be..tap pins out but before I attempt can anyone confirm
Stop!
If you take the time to research this forum you would find that tapping the pins is how you make the pins tighter and peen them. Peening means to spread the metal on the end of the pin to make it wider.
Then you would realize that tapping cannot possibly be the method to remove the pins. If you persist in trying it that way then you will just crack the scales.
The only way to remove the pins is to drill out the peened end. You will need to use either a 1/16" drill bit or very carefuly with a 3/32" drill bit. In both cases you will need to use a drill press. Doing it with a hand held drill is very difficult.
Alternately, if you are patient (unlikely since you do not have the patience to search for information :)) and careful then you can file off the peened end. You have to take care not to file the scales while you do it. Take electrical tape and puch a hole the size of the washer in it. Stick the tape around the pin and then file lightly and carefully. The tape will protect the scales if you don't file too agressively. Otherwise the file will go right through the tape.
I personnally use carbide drill bits. Carbide is very stiff and does not bend, it is stiff but breaks if bent too much. HSS small size drill bits flex and that makes it easier to have the bit travel off the pin when drilling. I bought my carbide bits from Think & Tinker. These are used for printed circuit board drilling. At fast speed and slow feed rates they tend to drill exactly where they are placed even if the surface is sloped so they are ideal for drilling out the peened end.
After the peened end is filed off or drilled out the pin can be easily pushed out. Don't use too much force in removing the pin. If it takes too much pressure that would mean that there is still some of the peened part left on the pin and you can crack the scales if you try to force it through the pivot hole.
Vlad...
I could almost just cut and paste that info for my cd restoration update. Great stuff. Additionally, I use a round diamond dust rotary tool bit to finesse the reminants of a stubborn pin from it's position.
Here, you have to be very very very very careful. Use high speeds and keep the bit on the half of the bit closer to you as you look at it through magnification. Only slightly off the center mark, not a lot. Turn the razor to cut away the material, still making sure the bit is still nearest you rather that on the far half of the pin.
You will immediatel recognize the fact that you are on the wrong half of the pin when the bit walks right over the edge of the pin into the soft celluloid leaving an area deep enough to use it as a wading pool for a fat cabbage patch doll.
Thanks for replies...I do not feel adventurous enough..and certainly not experienced enough for pin removals.
vladsch You are correct,patience is not one of my gifts,appreciate your quick reply.
Just got a set of 4 boxed razors...great condition apart from rust spots. currently buffing/polishing and seems to be working. One area I just cannot get into is at the tang and between the scales and tang. Number of rust spots on all 4 blades at this area,I certainly do not wish to remove pins...any ideas how to remove and polish above areas,and across the top of the blades which are cross grooved. The scales seem to be very flimsy and are either bone/ivory,but again in great condition.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=6624859093
Bill think your CD will come in handy,thought I read somewhere it is beng updated?
Thanks
Those scales look like Ivory and you really do not want to remove the pin to clean the blades. You can get in the tight spots using polish or lightly using a high grit number sandpaper. Your four razor set has a high collectable value so you do not want to lower that with aftermarket pins. You should practice on cheaper ebay razors to tighten the pins up as well.
Glen
I think it was Vlad that told me to get into the pivot area dental floss and polish
Regards peter
PS If it wasn`t Vlad and you know who you are I apolagise
I was wondering how to get that today until I broke the scales that I did not want to get rid of =O
Damn, I had a weird experience, this afternoon.
I wanted to practice removing scales, so I grabbed an old flea market razor that was the designated victim for this exercise. Don't have a drill press, so I had to try doing it by hand, also I didn't care too much about the old scales.
(Is it possible to do this without damaging the washers, even?)
Anyhow, so I try the pivot pin first, take a 1/16 drill bit and drill away... it took forever but at last, I drill through, push the pin out and lose the washer in the process (probably on somebody else's balcony ;) )
Ok, this went soso I think and proceed to drill out the wedge pin. Why? because I can... or because I can try ;)
So I drill away, that one is tougher, I think it was repinned, but whatever, I keep going, drill's getting hot, don't care, keep going, and going, suddenly...
... black smoke all over, disgusting stench all over, I run into the kitchen grab some water and pour it over the scales. Turns out the pin got so hot it ignited the friggin wedge.
I had to sand some skin of my fingers in order to get rid of that smell, probably gonna die of cancer soon. :cry:
:p
Hope you guys enjoyed this more than I did, I'd appreciate some constructive criticism.
Redwoood
Redwoood,
Be sure to file or sand down the peen so that it's flat. Trying to drill on a domed surface is no good. A drill press helps, but I do it all by hand as well.
From here on in, this is the process I usually follow:
Take a nail or an awl with a very sharp point, put it in the centre of the pin and give it a few taps to put a little indentation in the pin. This will serve as a little helpful guide to keep the drill bit from dancing.
The next step I perform if I want to save the scales, in other words, it's for greater precision. Instead of going straight to the 1/16" bit, I'll start with a 1/32" bit and create a little pilot hole for guidance. Once I got that made, I'll whip out the 1/16" bit and drill straight through the pin with that. I usually drill no deeper than the outside of the scale; this does fine to remove the peen. If needed I'll go as deep as the inside of the scale.
Sometimes part of the peen will remain attached to the pin at the outter diameter, but by this time, the metal in thin enough that I can easily cut through that with an x-acto knife.
Usually the pins are quite tight in the scales, so you'll probably need to gently but firmly wiggle them apart.
Whenever I drill metal, I always use some sort of oil; or for lack there of, water isntead. I also don't continuously drill, I'll drill for a second, check my progress and then continue.
It would probably benifit you to pickup a drill bit made for drilling metals as well. I have a cobalt bit, vlad had recommended the carbide ones; either should do fine. I got one of these for like $3 at the local home depot, and it just digs through the pin much easier and faster than my normal bits.
In case you're wondering. I've done this with both a dremel and conventional drill. Usually it's just whatever is closer :)
As for whether or not you can save the washers... You sure can. As for whether or not you can drill such that the washers are completely untouched, unlikely.
the scales or wedge were most likely celulose,it ignights at a very low temp ,same stuff they use to make cordite ,the propellant in old amunition eg 303 etc the only difference is the stuff has been nitrated hence nitro celulose (cordite)Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoood
Kind regards peter
I'm not familiar with firearms or propellant smell, but the wedge on this one was white (before) and was emitting a dark black smoke and had a biting smell, not unlike one of those pine scented bathroom sprays.Quote:
Originally Posted by bg42
:shrug:
Redwoood
I think what bg42 meant to say was celluloid.
Cellulose is the an organic polymer; cotten is almost entirely cellulose. Celluloid, meanwhile, is nitrated cellulose (aka guncotton) with camphor added as a plasticizing agent. Celluloid doesn't have much of a tolerance for temperatures so it melts very easily. That nasty smell was probably the camphor, it has a strong pungent aromatic odour.
Thanks for your helpful hints, gentlemen.
I think my bit wasn't quite up to the task and was running too hot too quickly.
Any more suggestions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoood
Use a new, sharp bit. :D