Just as a question, what would be a good way to shine up an older razor? The blade is a 5/8 fullow hollow by Torrey, and its losing some of its luster. Just looking to bring back the shine . Any ideas?
Printable View
Just as a question, what would be a good way to shine up an older razor? The blade is a 5/8 fullow hollow by Torrey, and its losing some of its luster. Just looking to bring back the shine . Any ideas?
Some polishing compound or CrOx on a cotton rag, and wipe untill shiny again.
Alot of the guys here use MAAS for the final polish. Personally I use mothers mag & aluminum polish.
Great ideas, thank you. I have access to a buffing wheel on a dremel hand tool. Would you think that will bring it back to a mirror shine?
Prudently used, it should be fine. Whether polishing by hand or by machine, it always is worth repeating:
Always exercise caution in polishing your razor
It may be worth searching the forum using the words "dremel" , and "broken" or "accident"
You see, now those type of keywords kinda make me think twice about trying this.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbhagwan
I've always used semichrome of flitz on a paper towel. If you start with sandpaper you have to remove the scratches left by the previous grits. I've heard 10 hours of hand sanding to get to the point of buffing with wheel or with dremel. I am not ambitious enough to go through that so I live with the patina. :)
The Lynn Abrams shaving video demonstrates polishing a blade with a dremel. I picked one up last weekend for that purpose and have ordered some MAAS. Basically he recommends polishing the blade parallel to the edge rather than perpendicular. I think if you watched the demonstration you would feel better about trying it.Quote:
Originally Posted by joshb1000
The video also covers honing, which I put off for months until it got to where I couldn't put it off any more.
Being the only son of a confirmed electric razor shaver, I need all the help I can get!
After working with a dremel several times, I would't use it if a paper tovel with polishing compound would be enough. Too much danger for the razor, if you are not cautious enough :)
I have found a lot of success using MAAS and a hand towel. I removed a lot of tarnish and residue from very old razors with this simple method. It was surprisingly fast and easy. Just be careful with the rubbing/polishing when you near the edge. I would recommend you try by hand first and then move up to the dremel if you are not getting the results you want. You don't want to be kicking yourself after you break the razor because you rushed into something. Remember, straight shaving is meant to be a slow and enjoyable process.:)
+1 I mix chromium oxide with mothers and it gives a great shine.Quote:
Originally Posted by jeness
I appreciate all the tips, I'll probably refer to the video again, and start with just a hand polish. Thanks again everyone
I use a product called Flitz on a paper towel and that will get the grime off. I finish by putting on Renaissance Wax and polishing with a cotton diaper. Will stay shiny a long time specially if you use oil between shaves. Steel will oxidize over time even just a little is noticeable on a highly polished razor.
Later,
Richard
My favorite are the Cape Cod polishing cloths. They are more effective than the plain polishes and can remove quite a bit of patina or rust.
If you use the dremel watch the direction of rotation relative to the edge and WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
I take the easy way out. I bought a bench grinder that I converted to a buffer. Combined with some grealess buffing compounds it's a great way of keeping your straights very shiney.
Yes/noQuote:
Originally Posted by joshb1000
If you love this first razor, do all by hand. Sounds silly, you need to feel and touch razors in general to learn thier details.
You will get quicker results with a buffer, and risk high speed damage at the same time
Kinda like racing a bike or car. It's easy to nail the throttle in the straights. Using the same gusto in the curves,you'll jack it up. There's a reason all racers start small displacement.