Wax protection on scale-stock

I just bought a 2x2x12 piece of Ebony from Rockler and it has the wax coating on it to prevent splitting, I guess. I know enough about chemistry to get this stuff off chemically, but I am worried about the wood splitting after I take the wax off. I was reading up on this coating in this post: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...x-removal.html and saw the post by cannonfodder about the wax keeping in moisture and splitting once the wax is removed. I have two concerns: one being the integrity of the stock piece which is easily rewaxed, so I guess I'm not really worried about that. What I am worried about is the stability of the scale blanks that I am going to cut out of this piece of wood. Will I need to somehow stabilize these blanks to prevent splitting? Or will the splitting not be an issue? Thanks.

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Originally Posted by adbuett

I just bought a 2x2x12 piece of Ebony from Rockler and it has the wax coating on it to prevent splitting...

What I am worried about is the stability of the scale blanks that I am going to cut out of this piece of wood. Will I need to somehow stabilize these blanks to prevent splitting? Or will the splitting not be an issue? Thanks.

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In raw wood, cracks occur when one section of wood shrinks more rapidly than another. The ends of stock are often waxed to slow the rate of evaporation and get that rate closer to the rate that moisture evaporates from the sides.

Wood bought from reputable dealers has been dried to a moisture content that is even throughout the piece. The fact that your scale blanks are going to be just a bit over 1/8th inch thick actually works in your favor because there isn't a huge volume of "interior" wood holding onto moisture. No point in the interior is more than 1/16th inch away from the surface. Less evaporation rate differential = less cracking. Assuming you've acquired stock that's been dried down to around 10% moisture content or less- which is fairly standard if you're buying from a reputable dealer- I'd be surprised if you get any cracks once you've thinned a piece of stock down to 1/8th inch.

I would suggest cutting a 1/4 inch slice of anything you buy from an untrusted source, and leaving it alone for a couple of days. If it's been properly dried it should remain stable.

Also, consider: you'll be going from rough stock to scales ready for finishing in, what?, a day or two? I suspect you'll be just fine. :)

adbuet,

Have a look at some of the music instrument forums - ebony seems to be much used in fret-boards etc.

Their advice seems to point to 'oiling' ca. once a year, or possibly treating with tung oil to seal the surface.

For my ebony scaled razors, I treat them with Rennaisance Wax, and then re-apply it every six months or so.

Good luck !

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

Thanks for the info everybody. The guy at Rockler who was checking me out seemed to think the wood was cut-off from an instrument manufacturer. I don't know the validity of this, but it has about a 1/8" shelf cut on both ends, so maybe for some sort of jig. Anyway, I am planning on using this for an 8/8" Wade & Butcher I picked up for $35 bucks at an antique shop. I also have some Zebrawood, Bacote that I got from Rockler. Also have some Osage Orange and Locust that I helped cut out of a fence line. Really looking forward to the Ebony though.

I was having the same thoughts as mbaglio...if you "open" the wood, make the scales, and finish/seal the scales all within 48hr I don't see how it would be long enough to allow checking.