Scale design

When making scales of hard flexible material such as wood it is difficult to use the standard wedge shape at the butt end. When pinning the pivot this puts stress on the scales and often the tang is tapered making the matter worse. The end result is that the blade will want to open of it's own accord and not sit well between the scales.

I'm going to try using a flat wedge (what other term to use ?) to keep the scales parallel but at the tang end file a wider gap up to where the grind on the blade starts.

This should allow space for the tang to pivot freely ( with some friction of course)and allow the blade to rest near where the spine gets thicker within the scales. It will also mean the scales can be sanded more and not be too chunky.

The question for all of you scale guru's is: Has these been done, is it common practice, does it make sense. To me it does.

Comments most welcome. I searched Bill's blog but did not see mention of this.

Basic hand drawn sketch tries to get across the idea.

Cheers

Gary

Gary,
I frequently use flat, or nearly flat wedges, particularly on 3-pinned scales.

Joe, want I want to try though is to get the scales closer together. If you look at a standard scaled razor the gap is quite narrow at the wedge end so why not have that same gap along the length of the blade up to where the tang starts. This way I can get scales that are narrower.

I'll try it out this weekend and post pics etc to show how it worked out. I may bolster the thinner pivot point end though as it will be the weekest part, I'll see.

Thanks for the reply Joe.

Gary

I would think that narrowing that gap between the scales for the full length would increase the danger of catching the scales while closing the razor. Especially if you're making the scales themselves thinner as well (and thus more flexible).

Thanks Sharkhat, I've considered this, the wood I use is hard and not flexible and with correct pinning the blade will align straight with the gap so it shouldn't be an issue. It is something to watch out for though. If you check your plastic scaled razors you will see the gap for the toe of the blade is quite narrow.

Cheers

Gary

I think you're trying to reinvent the wheel Gary. Best solution to me would be to use a third spacer pin in the middle of the scales to widen the middle a little. It's an interesting idea though and I'm keen to see how it flies for you.

X

http://straightrazorpalace.com/compo...nload/gid,136/

Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou

Gary

It is time to buy this guy a superman cape !:)

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Originally Posted by superfly

http://straightrazorpalace.com/compo...nload/gid,136/

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Gary...

Your idea will work, however, you are creating a weak spot in the scales at the thickness transition. I would not make the spacer absolutely parallel. The slightest taper would work a tad better.

The easiest solution is the third pin, as Nenad suggested. That is on my blog.

Always pin the butt first, then the pivot...

Nenad... a most excellent design on the jet aircraft blade. Impressive, to say the least.

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Originally Posted by randydance062449

It is time to buy this guy a superman cape !:)

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He would just trade it in for a meatchopper :D