Scale designs & sizes?

I was just wondering how some of you pro scale makers out there go from a piece of wood (or what have you), to the basic shape of a pair of scales...

So far I've just used some old scales as templates. The results have been alright. Not the most perfect fitting and certainly not the most stylish, but they serve their purpose more than adaquetely.

So I'm just wondering, is there any good methods to producing well fitting and, dare I say, fashionable scales? Do you guys just look at a razor blade and know exactly what to shape in your head? or is there a more scientific route?

So far the best I can think of is drawing a scale template on cardboard, putting the razor on top, and trying to visualize whether or not it would work. Definetly involves some trial and error no doubt.

As usual, any and all input is welcome :)

If I`m replacing old scales I do as you ,use them as a template.If I`m making custom scales I draw them first cut out the paper to make sure the blade fits and sits well ,then transfer the pattern on to a piece of wood or whatever ,then its just a matter of removing what you don't want. .So that is the way I do it also exactly as you described,there is no mystery,its all in what you leave behind
I would ask Vlad or Bill,for their finishing technique's,as they are both perfectionists where I`m somewhat of a lazy bastard ,I like playing around with metal ,the scales I`m so so with and loose patience rather quickly,I hope I will be able to quire that one day
Kind regards Peter

I use 1/8 inch plastic found in any hardware store. Start with a standard scale and trace onto the plastic. Make the cutout slightly bigger. If you use a "sharpie" pen, the extra width of the tip is usually plenty if you follow the outside edge.

Put the blade over the top of the new template and make adjustments with the marker. Use the dremel to sand to the profile you choose. Put the blade underneath the clear plastic to see if it works and pick a spot for the pivot hole. Drill that one. You can mark for a spacer pin, but I don't drill that one in the plastic because that changes from blade to blade.

I have several different patterns that are slightly oversized. Once I match the template with a blade and cut out the material, I grind everything away that doesn't belong there... :D Basically, I have three patterns.

For mine scale making atempts, I am using scans of the razor blades, and vector drawing the scale shapes over them. If I'm not sure, I might do a 3D model of the scale, but usually only 2D image is fine. Then, print, mark, cut...

Nenad

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I am using scans of the razor blades, and vector drawing the scale shapes over them. If I'm not sure, I might do a 3D model of the scale

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Wish I knew how to do that. I'd like to learn that vector stuff. Inbetween everything else I am behind on... :thinking:

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Originally Posted by urleebird

Wish I knew how to do that. I'd like to learn that vector stuff. Inbetween everything else I am behind on... :thinking:

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excuse my ignorance but what is a vector drawing
Regards Peter:thinking:

I use a slightly different approach for shapes.

I use the original scales to trace / mark the outline. I want the same curves either side. I then vary the ends. Traditional rounded style, angular squared off or something else.

I find this method gives the correct sizing but allows some artistic freedom.

A pic of some of my shapes attached. Not to scale (no pun intended).

Gary

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Originally Posted by bg42

excuse my ignorance but what is a vector drawing

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Vector drawing is made with lines that are defined with the positions of their points in coordinate system. Well, that's the best definition I can think of right now. The point is, they are editable, not like the line you draw with paintbrush in your favorite drawing program (bitmap editing), and they don't loose their quality no matter how big you scale them, or how many times you edit them. You can read more about vector vs bitmap here:

http://msauer.mvps.org/vector%20bitmap.htm
http://www.eastbywest.com/pub/vectorbitmap/
http://www.prepressure.com/image/bitmapvector.htm

Bill, I use the industry standard, Adobe's Illustrator program for vector drawing. It is the best out there. Other popular solution is Corel Draw.

Nenad

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm sure it will come in handy.

I think I'll try nenads method first. Seeing as I too am a nerd :D I'll probably just use photoshop though. I have nothing against vector images (in fact, I kinda dig them), but, I find raster based software so much easier to work with.

Now I just need to find and hookup the scanner again :p

I decided to try mocking up some scales on my computer (using photoshop).

I scanned in my scaleless blades and a scale to use as a base for the template. I then pathed out the scanned scale so I had something to work with. Next I took my template and put it over the picture of the blade and started fiddling around until I got everything to a size that looked good.

Anyway, you can checkout the mock up I've created over here. Let me know what you guys think and if everything looks alright.
All I need to do now is print out the template and use it, but I wanted to post it here first to see if you guys catch any glaring errors I managed to make but overlook.

very nice. flatten out the top of the scales to make them closer to parallel to the top edge of the blade.

Yep, that's the method. The good thing is that you can see where the blade lies in the scales. I'd say the heel of the razor is too close to the edge of the scales. You can cut yourself if not careful when washing or wiping the razor...

Nenad

Words of wisdom for sure.

Last night finished off a lovely set of scales, brass lined, made a brass wedge as well and bugger, they don't fit. :thinking:

My fault of course, I used a template for a roundpoint 8/8 and this blade has an inverse squarepoint. The arc the blade makes at the leading edge is great than that of the roundpoint.

So I have a nice set of scales but have to make another set for this battleship sized monster.

No worries though. I have been playing with Corel Draw and will experiment scanning a pic of the blade in and then design the scales over and around it. If I can't get that to work I'll go back to Billy's blog and lay the blade down and work from that.

So it pays to get everything correct before putting hours of work into a set.

yeesh, 8/8, juicy! I think it will be some time before I need to design scales for something like that. So far, for me, it's been almost entirely 5/8 & 6/8 full hollows.

A word to the wise though. When you're designing the scales digitally, use bezier curves! these things make adjustments a total breeze. If anyone wants, I can post the photoshop doc of the one I have.

ToxIK, Just exactly what I'm doing, those bezier thingy's are easy as to use.

Gary

Bezier curves using the pen tool in Photoshop is pretty much how I design and draw all of my art, especially the tattoos I've done. Very powerful tool, especially if you use layered paths.

All may not be lost Gary, My other 8/8 is a round point....

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Originally Posted by garythepenman

Words of wisdom for sure.

Last night finished off a lovely set of scales, brass lined, made a brass wedge as well and bugger, they don't fit. :thinking:

My fault of course, I used a template for a roundpoint 8/8 and this blade has an inverse squarepoint. The arc the blade makes at the leading edge is great than that of the roundpoint.

So I have a nice set of scales but have to make another set for this battleship sized monster.

No worries though. I have been playing with Corel Draw and will experiment scanning a pic of the blade in and then design the scales over and around it. If I can't get that to work I'll go back to Billy's blog and lay the blade down and work from that.

So it pays to get everything correct before putting hours of work into a set.

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Try to leave a distance of at least 1/8" between the edge of the razor and the bottom of the scale's. Safer that way.

Awesome thread guys! Excellent details. :)

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