How do I "Work" the "back"?

This question is mostly for Bill Ellis (urleebird) and any serious restoration artists that have done this level of work but I thought I'd post it publicly in case anyone else is interested.

I'm interested in how to put designs onto the spines of a str8 when I'm restoring it.

I've got some str8's in the restoration box that have some rust/pitting on the spine. Since I'm going to have to try to smooth it out a bit, AND since this lot of razors only cost me 5 bucks (so I'm not out a lot if I screw up). I want to try adding some nice design work on the backsides. I figure it will give the razors some appeal if n when I give them away. I'm working on 2 razors right now I'm giving the brother-in-law and if I can get good enough to put a nice design on the spine that would be some really sweet spice to the deal.

Thanks in advance for any advice, instructions, tools requirements, how-to sheets, faqs, etc.

Glen F

Glen,

My guess would be these worked back designs are done before the steel is hardened in the factory. I'm not 100% sure though.

Gary

Typically they are, but they can be done after the fact. doing it with out heating up the metal is the trick :). This almost invariably rules out using a rotary tool and thus promises to take a LONG time to do :).

This might be a silly idea but dental drills have an integrated water spray to cool down the tooth as it's drilled (cooked tooth pulp is sore) - could something similar be rigged up with a rotary tool?

rat-tail file n lots of elbow grease maybe.... ?

-micah

My understanding is that they're done with a file or a set of files. But the4re are some designs that are clearly not. They have that machine look, like the TI Egyptian razors.

I use small fine diamond files,work out what pattern you are going to use and mark it out, consistancey is the key to a good looking finish . after the pattern has been cut rap fine emery around the tip of each file you used and polish out each cut. GO SLOW take your time ,dont rush, remember accuracy and lots of elbow greese .If you slip it is very hard to cover the blunder and it will stick out big time if the rest is perfect
Thats how I do it any way, for what its worth.
Kind regards Peter

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bg42

I use small fine diamond files,work out what pattern you are going to use and mark it out, consistancey is the key to a good looking finish . after the pattern has been cut rap fine emery around the tip of each file you used and polish out each cut. GO SLOW take your time ,dont rush, remember accuracy and lots of elbow greese .If you slip it is very hard to cover the blunder and it will stick out big time if the rest is perfect
Thats how I do it any way, for what its worth.
Kind regards Peter

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Peter definitely has the right of it. I filework most of the knives I make, but it's done when they're dead soft. A hardened piece of razor steel (which is typically left harder than the same steel used to make a working knife) would be a nightmare to work. Several makers I'm aware of do their filework after heat treating, and they use diamond files, according to the article I read on it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bg42

I use small fine diamond files,work out what pattern you are going to use and mark it out, consistancey is the key to a good looking finish . after the pattern has been cut rap fine emery around the tip of each file you used and polish out each cut. GO SLOW take your time ,dont rush, remember accuracy and lots of elbow greese .If you slip it is very hard to cover the blunder and it will stick out big time if the rest is perfect
Thats how I do it any way, for what its worth.
Kind regards Peter

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what do you mark it with, small tipped sharpie? white out?

I'm looking to start with a simple design of lines criss crossing to form a simple diamond/triangle combo pattern. I can make a generic template that will allow me to mark the pattern on the back of the blade, flip it over, line it up and mark the mirror to complete the pattern. If it works I'll show the results :)

I've actually got a dentist friend that has spare parts. I'll check to see if he has any oldpneumatic drills with water connections to them and some old bits that he no longer uses.

I've got enough junk blades I can afford to experiment with them.

I use a ruler and a very sharp scribe and put as deep a scratch as possible and use this as a guide for the fine files to mark the point.
If you put the edge of the file against the spine you can feel the edge slot into the scribe line,so you know you are in the correct place .
If the cut requires a round file i will start the cut with a triangle shape first to give the round file a larger guide so it dosn`t go where ever it wants I hope this helps
Kind regards peter