Is it just me or is peening not very fun?

I just finished my first set of scales tonight!

I'm very relieved to have gotten at least one of these done. I've been collecting a bunch or old razors and I've made several sets of scales and this is the first one I've actually connected all the dots on.

Peening is not fun...at least not yet. I bent one brass rod, My peens are not very even and I cracked the scale in one spot and had to go back to repair it.:banghead:

-I used a scale template that I downloaded (I think from here in a .pdf)
-I bought a 1/8" thick piece of Lace wood from Woodcraft
-The spacer is from an acrylic pen blank
-The finish is an oil based sealer with polyurethane followed by Renaissance wax.
-I tried the 2 tone pin approach after I got an old Wade and Butcher this week that had the same color scheme. However it shows off my lack of peening ability :(

Anyway I'd love your feedback and things I can improve for next time.

Thanks guys!

http://antiquemilitaryshooter.com/fo...ipescales1.jpg
http://antiquemilitaryshooter.com/fo...ipescales2.jpg
http://antiquemilitaryshooter.com/fo...ipescales4.jpg

First set of scales.

:bow:bow

Great job on your first attempt. Just remember to keep it slow and tap lightly.

Looks pretty good to me. As Theseus said just slow and light, I've never counted but it may take 300-400 gentle taps. You dont need to leave a lot sticking out of the washer before peening maybee arround 1mm.
Is that 1/16 rod your using? Awesome keyboard there too.
Grant

I think that is a great job!!

I'll be trying my skills at it soon enough. I have about 12 razors collected now that all need attention of some kind. Removing the scales is like step one. I guess I'll be learning the 'peening' as well. All the input sure helps, eh?

Keep up the good work, mate!!!

I've destroyed too many scales trying to peen. I've switched to a hex bolt and nut. Not as nice looking, but lots easier.

I know the razor is on show (very nice scales, like wood on a razor a lot) but gotta say lol the real standout in your pic is you computer keyboard! VERY Steampunk, like a lot :)

Same questions as Baldy/Grant had is that 1/16 in Rod ?????

Also I have posted this hint about 100 times but Popsicle sticks make for great practice instead of newly built scales, if you can pin them together without snapping them you should do fine on real scales...

Watch how tight the pins fit the holes, if they are tight on wood scales you can split the scale, there should be a slight bit of slop for swelling...
Clip the rod within 1mm of the washer, I use a 5/64 drill bit for 1/16 in rod
You should file the excess rod before peening, nice even starts make for nice even peens..
You can also file and peen to bring it in slowly...
If you bent a rod it can only be from two reasons, to much force or to long a pin
Put you finger on the anvil surface, tap it with the hammer right there at the edge of your Cuticle that real sensitive spot, if that hurts when you tap you are hitting to hard, No really, I am not kidding, try that test...


All these hints are avaiable in the workshop sticky too

That is a very nice job.
Peening; The statements above are correct, and I am adding a bit more to them.
Cut the pin to a length.
First, file the end of the pin dead square and flat.
Second, peen lightly all around the outside of the pin end to make a mushroom shape.
Third, slowly tap that mushroom down onto the washer.
Then the edges of the mushroom shape will be against the washer.

Again, Nice job!
Respectfully
~Richard

To answer the question in your thread title, I dunno about anyone else but I rather enjoy peening, its one of my favorite parts.

As for tips to improve, pay close attention to the advice the mentors are giving u here, its really good advice. Also my first peen was using scrap wood and a tablespoon as a peening hammer. I think that first attempt showed me how little force and hammering is required to get the job done. Maybe you don't actually need to experience this yourself but at least keep in mind that it really is about more light taps instead of fewer big hits.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tekbow

I know the razor is on show (very nice scales, like wood on a razor a lot) but gotta say lol the real standout in your pic is you computer keyboard! VERY Steampunk, like a lot :)

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Thanks! I cut up some old typewriter keys and revamped a stock Dell keyboard
http://antiquemilitaryshooter.com/fo...k keyboard.jpg

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll get some more peening practice under my belt. Maybe the task won't be so unpleasant once I know what I'm doing. I'm sure I was hitting too hard when I bent the post.

I am using 1/16 rod and I think the washers were "0" stainless.

Do any of you guys use something as "depth gauge" when setting the amount of pin showing above the washer? I wonder if there is something I could hold up next to it make sure I'm not setting too much or too little.

+1 to previous posts, I also rather enjoy peening, I definitely dont rush doing it, and if Im building scales dedicate a day to just peening, and polishing. I also dont count how many (light) taps I do, but would say sometimes go easily in the 1,000s ( I like my pins tight :) ) For ur first time, I would say u did just Fine , Keep it up !!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tumtatty

...snip...
Do any of you guys use something as "depth gauge" when setting the amount of
pin showing above the washer? I wonder if there is something I could hold up next
to it make sure I'm not setting too much or too little.

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,,,depth gauge... hmm...

You can stack some extra washers as a depth gauge, then cut as flush
as you can and file it smooth to remove all but the one you need
from the stack and then tap tap. That will get you the same length
modulo one washer thickness every time.

Very helpful info for us new to rescaling! Thanks to everyone for their responses.

Regards
Louis.

Depth gage eh... How far the pin sticks out depends on how large I want the head of the pin to be (within reason, too much and you'll never get em tight). I usually have my pin sticking out no further than the thickness of the jewelers file I'm using to file the head, and usually less than that.

I think the secret lies in the fact that the lighter the hammer, the more localised, close to the impact surface, the swelling of the pin will be. The logical extension is a ferry in the last 1mm. of its movement into dock, which will expand the pin all along its length. But I think a jeweller's or watchmaker's hammer (try eBay) will expand much less of the part which lies inside the wood, than a relatively massive tack hammer moving more slowly and thus delivering equal energy per whack.

Is the "washer" really a tiny washer, either on the surface or inlaid into it? I think you might get better results with a piece of tubing, epoxied into part or all of the length of the hole. You would have to expand the pin much less to lock it irremoveably in brass, say, than in wood or bone. You could easily make up a simple die and punch to create a little flange on the end of your choice.

A large range of brass and aluminium tubes is commonly available in model-making shops, and probably also nickel silver, copper and stainless on eBay. Another very useful source for tools and materials is Jantz Supply for all your Knife Making needs .

Thanks Caledonian!
Yeah its a washer..."0" Stainless from MicroFasteners. Maybe I should've used a bigger one.
I've never thought about epoxying a "washer" into place. Have you ever tried that?

I was wondering if I could use permanent pins like they do on knives. I'd love to use some thick copper wire somehow.

I was thinking that an epoxied-in sleeve of tubing would be better. But a washer ought to be fine if it is a tight fit on the rod. That might be more easily obtainable with 1/16in. rod in washers made for 1.5mm., say. Or if you can get large sewing or leathercraft needles with a tapered point, use them to swage the hold just big enough for the rod to be a driving fit. On the final assembly it ought to go in from the small end of the tapered hole which you make that way.

The class act is a taper pin reamer, which is used to make the holes to hold machinery etc. together with drive-in steel pins. But they are quite expensive.

Little if any taper should be needed to fix the pin at the handle spacer, if epoxy to the spacer and on the pin is used. The same should have if you have a stop pin, possibly surrounded by scale material, part-way down the handle. Only the pivot pin is subject to levering forces which tend to prise the scales apart.

Any time I inherit a straight-razor manufacturer, the hole in the tang will become larger, so that the scales can locate against a non-rotating bushing, or a shoulder in the pin. But a hole in hardened razor steel is hard to enlarge.

First of all, congrats on your first full restore!! Most Excellent.
Second, peening rivits is like everything else we do here. The more practice you get, the better the end result.
Here's something that you might try to get in a bit more practice. Cut some 1/16" rod in 3/4" or 1/2" pieces. File the ends flat. Put the pin in a small vise, like the little ones you get at the hobby/tool store that clamp onto your work table. Take your time and peen one end of the pin. Like the guys said above, light little strikes with a small ball peen or chasing hammer. You don't need a lot of overlap on the peen, just a little bit will hold. Once you have several half done rivits you can slip the washer in place and then use Glen's popsicle sticks method and practice the other side of the rivit. If you don't want to use up your good washers, you can get a thin sheet of metal (brass or whatever) and drill 1/16" hole, then use a small coping saw or jewelrs saw and cut your own practice washers.

hope this helps, and good luck,
you're well on your way!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tumtatty

Thanks Caledonian!
Yeah its a washer..."0" Stainless from MicroFasteners. Maybe I should've used a bigger one.
I've never thought about epoxying a "washer" into place. Have you ever tried that?

I was wondering if I could use permanent pins like they do on knives. I'd love to use some thick copper wire somehow.

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IMO, The washer hole should be as tight to the pin diameter as possible. The closer the pin is
to the size of the washer hole the less rivet effect you need and the closer to the washer
you can cut the pin off.

Another thing to think about is this......I rescaled a couple razors and what I used were some brass brads. I hit them wih my mapp torch to anneal them and then I set them to length, cut where needed and tap tap tap! One side is already domed for convenience!