W&B wedge...I wanna fix it.

I picked this up a few days ago and for the price I had no choice. If it is to far gone I can always display it for what it is. I know the scales are toast; cracked, broken, warped. There is a taper in the blade from the point to the heal. I am not sure if it was made like that, (from pics I have seen I am doubting it...but I am still pretty new to this) and if it is possible to hone or shave with that taper. I know the direction I wanna take with the restore if it is something I can do myself. I started this in the workshop so I can leave a record of my progress for all to see. If it is in the wrong place I apologize.
Attachment 73421Attachment 73422Attachment 73423Attachment 73424

It's definitely do-able. The blade can be sanded and brought back to a polished shine without losing very much of the etching on the tang. However, there seems to be quite a bit of pitting on the actual blade edge which can make for some interesting and time consuming hone work. Obviously the scales need to be replaced. Now as many will agree, don't take the repinning lightly, as this is as important as the rest, if the pinning ends up crooked, you can end up with a nice razor...that doesn't close centered. But this is definitely a good project piece and well worth the time. Beautiful potential, best of luck!

I am not doing to shabby at my pinning. I have a pakistan straight razor that is amazing!!! for practicing pinning on.

Looks like a good blade to learn your clean up process on. Yes lots of pitting, but it is a good heavy blade. This is a fine way to learn where a light hand is needed. If it was a hollow grind, with a much thinner blade, far easier to damage.

Suggest doing by hand so you do learn the feel. Surprisingly a simple piece of steel as a straight blade has its quirks. Doing by hand, i feel, is the best way to become intimate with the blade geometry, to learn what you can and can't do.

Don't rush it. The real reason you're doing it is for fun, so enjoy the process. You will have a fond attachment when all done

Good luck

thanks, I have restored a few already. I am just unsure if the taper was normal or something better left to a pro. I am looking for scale material now. I am thinking canvas micarta.

*edit* I am really excited because this is my first wedge

I agree that you can make a fine job of this one, and make it very usable. The stamping on the tang is good for that purpose, as it looks deep enough to stand refinishing without being erased. My preference for a tang material would be something that was available to Wade and Butcher when it was made.

thanks guys. I have been reading about wedges for hours. I have 3 sets of scales in the works, and 3 blades to polish. Assemble and hone them and I will start this one. The more I read and look around, the more I think about different materials for the scales.
I am not sure what the original scales are made from...horn or bone. when held up to the light it is a nice translucent amber color. I am thinking they are horn.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bondpunk

thanks, I have restored a few already....

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Dooooh. My mistake, totally misread thread and poster.

That's what I get for reading/replying too late.

Don't work in the shop tired, suppose similar could be said about adding comment, haha

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dirtychrome

Dooooh. My mistake, totally misread thread and poster.

That's what I get for reading/replying too late.

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No, I didn't say anything about restoring a few already in my original post. So you didn't misread anything. I should have put that info out there. It is my bust, and I apologize.
I just normally see pictures of wedges that are nice and even along the spine and edge. and this one is not. You guys say it can be done I will try it.

I have heard not uncommon to be wider at front than rear. I believe even heard said that some shavers liked their blades this way. Unsure if shipped this way, or would 'hone to fit'.

These restores I did are similar to your blade. They were about 7/8 wedge if I remember correct. Not as much hone wear as yours' and maybe not as extreme of how narrow at heal vs toe, but similar none the less on similar blades I think. These were impressive as a fairly large, true wedge.

crummy shots, but more images of this one here if you want here
Wade & Butcher
http://straightrazors.me/shamprior/w...ition=download

and more poor images of this second one here
Wade and Butcher
http://straightrazors.me/shamprior/w...ition=download

dirtychrome you are amazing! thank you. Always with the sage like advice and great information.
I am still deciding on scale shape and material. the more I look the more ideas I get. I also need to order some more pinning material. I want silver pins and washers, and I currently only have brass. I am planning to spend some time on this one though, and with no power tools it will most certainly take some time, and I don't mind that.

I am finishing up my 3 current project razors, this one will hopefully be started by friday!

BP, indeed, some are made with that taper. Some British, several framebacks. I recently got a Swedish Hellberg wedge that's at least that pronounce in taper. I have a costly wedge (wacker), and this Hellberg outshaves it. 'Best shaving wedge I've tried - including a SatinWedge. DirtyChrome seems to be steering you to take your restoration skills further with it. The same can be said to me - I can't say I have a great feel for sanding a blade (or alot of other technicques), but the learning by doing is too effective to ignor.
Best of luck w/ your restore. Maybe post the results as it comes along.

Thank you pinklather, I will post results... and dirtychrome has offered a lot of great advice. I am glad he and all the other members are nice enough to answer the same questions 500 times over and over every time someone new asks what has already been asked.

I finished my other projects. So I started on this one a few days ago. here are the pictures of the razor as it was taken apart, the wood of choice for scales (black palm), and after many hours of 60 grit sanding. There is still a little pitting on the blade, and a small patch on the tang. Trying to decide if I should move ahead into the higher grits, or keep going to get rid of it completely.Attachment 75358Attachment 75360Attachment 75361Attachment 75362Attachment 75359

I have a similar blade..but with a barbers notch.
I will post some pics as soon as I can.

Looking good!
Handsanding is some tedious work isn't it! ;)

so far so good! you made a good choice by starting with a wedge... my first is a full-hollow, and I left some of the pitting for fear of sanding through the edge.

yes, hand sanding is very tedious. and I have a few where i left the pitting. I don't mind a little bit of character