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I am in the process of making my first set up scales....for a 7/8" Horn razor.....this is were I am at....I am trying to decide what to use to coat them. I need to find out where to get the stuff and somewhere to get nice pins to hold this beauty together.
The lighter colored scales are Cherry Wood......
The darker is Cocobolo Wood.......
Any Thoughts
I'd suggest either CA glue or Tung Oil. If I was choosing, I'd go CA on the cherry, and Tung Oil on the cocobolo. I particularly like the shape on your coco.
Tung oil for me....
and then buffed right to a shine. (Or not....see further down)
+1 on both of those.Quote:
Originally Posted by skipnord
Also, if you look in the sticky at the top of the workshop, it has a thread title something to the effect "where do I find, how do I, etc.". Just thought I'd post it before Glen does. :) lol
CA or tung. I prefer CA, YMMV. Don't forget to wipe those down with some acetone before your first coat of whatever finish.
NOOOOO!! Dont use anything other than a chemically hardened finish on cocobolo. Urethane, tong oil, varnish, etc... will not cure on cocobolo. It will stay sticky due to the high oil content in the bolo. I have only used two finished that will properly cure on it, catalized urethane and epoxy resin. If you use something like a Danish oil you will end up wiping most all the finish off. Cocobolo can also be just buffed to a nice shine.
This is sooo true!Quote:
Originally Posted by cannonfodder
:roflmao
Medicevans beat me to it on the sticky
so did Dave on the oil and Cocobolo
and UPD on the Acetone
so I guess I'll just add +1 :rofl2:
So, has anyone else had any issues with Cocobolo, not curing when they use the Tung Oil.......I was thinking about going that route. I definately want a nice coating it.....not something that will get damaged....if I go Epoxy Resin....where would I get it?
Epoxy is easy and finishes to a GREAT shine when you let it cure for three or four days to harden fully and then cut it with Mequire's "Scratch-X" product. We use it on gun stocks to good effect. After scratch-x, I use three or four coats of carnuba wax in top to make it shine.
Look for epoxy resin in a hardware or home improvement stores. Ask for "furniture resin."
Here's the kind of gloss capable with epoxy, and even this isn't really that good. CA does the same thing, but is a lot more work.
http://tapatalk.com/mu/a6898d60-b310-e3e9.jpg
Yeh.....well, I just want to make sure I don't go guy something and waste money on something I won't use.....so if The Tung Oil works, then I would like to try it.
I guess it really comes down to what type of finish you want. If you want a satin finish, go with tung oil. If you want a shiny/glossy finish, go with CA or epoxy. It really is that simple. Epoxy and tung oil are both very easy to apply. CA is more labour intensive.
Ok....What does CA stand for......lol
I like Satin Finish alot.....I am only concerned with durablity and quality finish. Thanks for the input guys......oh, yeah.....medicevans I sent another reply.
Cyanoacrylate. Super glue. Here's some light reading! lol
Cyanoacrylate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ints-tips.html<----this tutorial is written by Glen/gssixgun. Kind of a guy you might listen to........
I would advise lightly sanding the inside of the cocobolo scales before putting a lot of work into them. I have a violent reaction to the dust, which brings me out in a most unpleasant rash, partly-closed eyes, etc. In fact that is how I learned that cocobolo is a dalbergia species, like the true rosewoods which I knew did it, unlike the very similar Andaman padauk.
It is a wood which is routinely used without any finish in knife handles, and I think this would work well in a razor. Buffing would be best done with a wax-based compound, preferably jeweller's rouge on a new canvas wheel, which won't show an obtrusive colour in the pores. Melting a hard wax such as carnauba into the pores and rubbing it off flush might also be useful, and there is no doubt this hardening, as it is purely thermal. I would still avoid getting these scales as wet as plastic or bone. But cocobolo will stand it far better than most woods.
HAHA....Thats funny you say that about the alergic reaction. I was sneezing up a storm while I was sanding it.....I did not break out though..and as soon as I stop sanding and left the area I was fine...LOL Thanks for the heads up.
So.....now that I have blobbed on my EPOXY RESIN..........what am I to do to cut it down....lol
It sure is thick and I have a ways to go to make it all smooth......Any help would be good....something that will eat it up quickly would be nice...lol I have a quite a few bubbles in it. What grit sand papers
Tim, I'm not sure what you mean by "blobbed on." There shouldn't be the need to sand epoxy smooth. Cut it with compound and wax to bring out the super gloss, but not sand. As for bubbles, I doubt it will be possible to get them out once the epoxy has set up. You have to get them out right after you pour. You let the epoxy sit for 5-10 minutes then breathe on the scales and the bubbles will come to the top and pop. How about a picture for us so we can help more.
The only scales here that havn't been Epoxied are Cocobolo and I Tung Oiled them The other two where epoxied at different times.
I guess I am experimenting...sheesh that sucked. Well I know one thing, the reference to stirring the Epoxy Resin for 3 minutes and then putting it on was dumb....Thats is was jacked me up...The Second set in Cherry Turned out ok, and I only mixed them about a minute...How about using Spar Urethane on these? would that work?, you know if I started with a new set?
Or is there any way to salvage these Epoxied Cocobolo's? I hate to let them go but there are probably 100 or more bubbles in them....:shrug:Attachment 76618Attachment 76619Attachment 76620Attachment 76621Attachment 76622Attachment 76623
Oh Tim........well, I don't know what to say. What kind of epoxy did you use? Tell us that then we'll give more advice. I'm going to say that the cherry can probably be saved. The Cocobolo would be a lot more work. Let me think for a second and I will get back to you.
It looks like you might have used epoxy intended as an adhesive, and probably the quick-drying sort. you would be better off with a resin made for pouring, casting or imbedding. Here is something close to the full story on epoxies:
Epoxy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Epoxy does cure quite progressively, and there is a stage at which, if anything is going wrong, it can easily be scraped or pared away without damaging the wood.
I have a feeling you are right...more than likely the syringe type available at walmart next to the CA.
Here is an example of what you are looking for:
Ok....here is the dealeoh....I used the heavy duty stuff at Lowe's.....I also mixed it 50/50 and for about 2 or 3 minutes...So where would one get the stuff you guys are referencing? I sure would love to do this right.....and stop wasting beautiful wood...haha
I am learning alot by my mistakes...I am trying some Spar Urethane tonight and see how it does..I am going to finely sand and reapply on a test piece.
Well thanks for hanging in there with me guys...I will get there on this eventually!!!!
yep, that's why it looks like it does. The stuff I showed you pours like thick honey. The stuff you used flows like, well, not like honey. I bought my stuff at a Do-it-Best Hardware store. ACE Hardware, Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, places like that might have it. You need to ask someone that looks like they know what the hell they're talking about to help you find furniture epoxy. It should be in a pint, quart, or half gallon sizes. It works a WHOLE lot better than the crap you used.
Don't feel bad about using the wrong stuff. Every time you make a mistake, you are that much closer to knowing what will ultimately work. I messed up on the razor I showed you earlier in this thread; the sides of the wood didn't cover evenly. It looks ok, but next time I will know what not to do. Just keep experimenting and asking questions. Let us know how the SU goes. I've never tried it. I looked at it, but decided to go with epoxy first. I'm interested.
BEFORE you pour the epoxy again, PM me and I will send you my phone number and I will give you some pointers about how to get the bubbles out.
Dude, that sounds great.....finding someone at Lowes that knows what they are doing is quite a task....and well, it may be a while due to finances....But I will work with the Spar Urethane for a while and see the results....Once I do I will post some photos to show the results.....Thanks Again
Which is why I shop at my smaller Do-it Best. They don't have as large a selection, but I can walk from one end of the store to the other in less than 45 seconds. It's like Radio Shack, "You've got questions, we've got blank stares." lol
I used a pint of Minwax polyurethane to good effect as well. Just coat it with several light coats, sand until it's all dull looking with no glossy high spots, then a couple more light coats, then repeat until you get the depth you like. It works well, just time consuming. The minwax poly is CHEAP too. Really cheap. Might try it too.
The second I say your photo I knew what you did. You have to use bar top finish you used adhesive epoxy.
Try reading this…
Finishing scales using epoxy resin - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Spar urethane will not set on cocobolo, nothing will set on cocobolo other than a chemically hardened finish like epoxy, CA, or catalyzed urethane. I use system three epoxy finish but I also get it by the gallon (have a wood shop). It takes a little work to learn how to lay the finish but when you get it down, it is a nice finish. I use a dremmel with a sanding drum to knock the drips off the bottom of the scales once they have cured. It will take about 3 days for the resin to fully harden.
Attachment 76759
Butane torch passed over the finish with about 4 inches of clearance between the flame and the finish. Or if you have a vacuum chamber it will also work.Quote:
Originally Posted by medicevans
Here is what I use on my tables and scales.Quote:
Originally Posted by TDITim
Mirror Coat - Woodcraft.com
I just breathed hard on it and it worked fine. Wish I had a butane torch though. Lots of uses for those. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by cannonfodder
Quote:
Originally Posted by cannonfodder
Well I did try the cocobolo with Spar Urethane and guess what happened....lol it didn't work..still sticky..The Spar worked great on my Cherry wood....So anyways.....I will just have to get the Epoxy that works....Thanks again
New question.....I have been doing the Super Glue route......inbetween the sanding and application.....should I wipe down with acetone or water? or just dust?
The wash coating is finished just need to know whats next as far as the sanding and cleanup for the next stage.
Tim, I believe, repeat believe, based on my experience with polyurethane, that you apply, let dry, sand, wipe with a tack cloth or microfiber (what I use with poly), repeat.
Check this thread by Glen/gssixgun for a CA tutorial. No acetone except before the very first coat, even then not always necessary.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ints-tips.html
Alright thats what I thought.....but I wanted to be sure....I already printed out the CA Super glue pages.....Didn't know if there was a difference with the others.
Thanks Again
