Polishing gold-wash on blade - how to keep it while cleaning the blade.

Recently I picked up a beat up Hoffritz after one of you stole the mint one I really wanted on the bay. (You know who you are!) For the record, they are identical and mine has the advantage of personality and extra rust - which both came free, as the warped scales did - for a fraction of the price of the mint one. So there.

Anywhoo, it's a 6/8 blade with white scales and a red logo on the show side. The blade has etching and gold-wash that reads High Class. It looks that it could be brought back to life with a good polishing, but I was wondering if Mother's polish would take the gold-wash away, since I'd very much like to keep it.

I remember reading a thread about this some time ago. No matter how hard I tried it didn't show up in my searches; worse yet... I can't remember whether the poster warned against or recommended polish on gold-wash.


Marcos

Marcos,

I believe it will. You will need to be VERY careful if you use any kind of polish directly on the gold-wash etching on the blade. Perhaps you can polish around it.

Check with some of the expert razor restorers here at SRP to see if there is anything you can do--short of using polish--to restore the blade.

Good luck!

I think the general rule of thumb is leave gold wash alone if you want to keep it, ANY kind of abrasive will remove it. Even over vigirous rubbing may do damage

I had a similar issue with a blade of mine and put tape over the gold wash and sanded around it then, polished it with metal polish very carefully after I had finished sanding and removed the tape.
Good luck.

I have had good luck w/ one cleaner/polish being used directly on goldwash - Honda (motorcycle) spray cleaner and polish. It won't remove heavy gunk, and all the cautions about using gently apply. Heck, normal handling w/ just fingers takes goldwash off. It does clean and shine it well. I use it to wipe blades before sending them out.

I have a TIGER 49 solingen, mothers mag and alum polish (little white jar). By the time I checked it was too late, the beautiful gold wash was GONE... leave the blade as it, or accept the fact that the wash will be gone ( without serious dremel experience, of course )

Thank you all for the insight shared. I think I'll try the tape over method, as I really want to keep the gold wash on this one.

I'll take some pics today and post, so at least you'll see it, and then when I'm done - but only if the gold wash is still on. Otherwise I'll just pretend to forget to post the after pics.

Thanks again.


Marcos

Be careful with the tape. Some tapes will begin to take it off too.

I'm starting to think that is near impossible to save the goldwash.

Nelson,

Would you recommend a particular tape for the job? I had thought either blue or green painter's tape, or electric tape would work, but now I'm not so sure.


Marcos

As promised, some pictures of the Hoffritz:

Attachment 77350

Attachment 77352

Attachment 77353

Attachment 77354

Attachment 77355

Pretty much everything will take off gold wash - Sandpaper, MAAS or even just too much rubbing with a cloth!

The only thing you can really do is clean the blade up and avoid the wash or take the wash off and send it out for replating.

Stubear,

Coincidentally, I've been looking into just that... but rather aiming to do the goldplating myself. I found a cuple of kits out there (trivia: most google goldwash, gold wash and gold-wash searches return threads from this forum) and a very interesting alternative called the PennyPen Goldplater. This interesting device is battery powered and self contained. For a relatively modest $60 one can, according to the vendor, plate some 200 plus wedding bands, which I translate to about 100 razors. This is something I will probably try, as I also want to replate the tail of my DD Goldedge.

Reading other threads here I find that the wash wasn't really the problem. The real issue is keeping the etching itself, so now I haven't solved the original problem - though I may have a lead - and I have picked up a brand new one.

My collection of razors to be fixed grows and I have to use all my willpower not to pick up the phone and call Glen. My self respect and pride are at stake here, after all.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and thoughts.


Marcos

Note to Glen: If I do call, I'd appreciate if it you'd keep it our little secret.

Marcos

Go to an art supply store and buy a small artist's "stomp". It is a piece of thin cardboard rolled very, very tightly with a tapered tip used by charcoal and pastel artists rub their media in a precise manner. When you see the stomp, you will see how you might use it with metal polish to get very close to the gold etch to remove the corrosion.

Stomps are very rigid and easily controlled with your hand. Give it a try.

JERRY

Jerry,

That's brilliant! I didn't know the name in english, but I know exactly what you are talking about. Great thinking, great tip.

Thanks!



Marcos

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snake

Jerry,

That's brilliant! I didn't know the name in english, but I know exactly what you are talking about. Great thinking, great tip.

Thanks!



Marcos

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Marcos

You can also shape a rubber eraser any way you need it to get close to the etch. If you know what an old fashioned "ink eraser" is, that has some abrasive already cooked into the rubber. Jusy add a bit of metal polish and be careful not to touch the etching. Good luck with whatever you use. Post some pics afterwards. We would like to know how you make out.

JERRY

Jerry,

I gather you have a background in fine arts? :) I spent a year or two studiying art, and that's where I became familiar with these instruments. I gave up on account of being barely better than mediocre and ended up an engineer.

I must say, though, that your (cross) thinking is very impressive. Even with the same information I didn't manage to make the jump and find the application.

Thanks, once more, for your insight.


Marcos