Cleaning pivots without unpinning

So i had this razor, the white one from a while back on this thread.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...up-myself.html

Didn't really warrant a full strip down and handsanding, it was a collarless pinning and i wasn't happy with my previous results handsanding round etching, so i decided at the urging of one of the guys to just give it a good rub with autsol (maas equivalent for the uk). i did need to get in around the pivot though as it was a bit gunky. But doing this before with another razor resulted in gunky autosol remnant coming out for a month or so.

So anyways, i got a toothbrush, got down into the pivot with the edge of the brush (it had washers so a little space to work with) then cleaned it up as best i could with a q tip and tissue paper. Result? gunky autsol remnant..

However i realised i had WD40 and the little straw that comes with it. I realised if i gave the razor a good working around the pivot, it would really grind the autsol in and clean the gunk up, then i blasted it thru the straw with the WD40. Next result? No gunky autosol remnant :)

Only down side is it hasn't left much friction in the friction washers so the blade is er.. very smooth in opening and closing lol guess that'll wear off

Thanks for the tip. Will have to keep that in mind for future restores.

Glad it worked out. WD-40, the wonder fluid.

The reason WD-40 is not recommended to clean firearms is that it will promote rust. May want to rethink that idea...

I thought WD was water displacement? and that it was a good way to get rid of rust, door hinges etc? we use it in work a lot for that purpose.. Howver if that's correct then the theory is sound i guess? just use something else that is in a pressurised can and doesn't promote rust? electro wash maybe (use it in work for cleaning electrical connections etc, it's a non conductive hydrophobic fluid). basically just something non detrimental to the metal that will push out the autosol/maas.

I will say i've used it on another old razor that had a rust issue on the pivot and it cleaned it up nicely with no further issues.

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Originally Posted by Hirlau

Glad it worked out. WD-40, the wonder fluid.

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No, that would be rum ;)

WD 40 actually has a water content to it.miniscule but still there.

most chemical solutions have to have a small percentage of water don't they?

Not arguing the point or anything, it worked for me and have used it in other applications where unseizing, derusting etc was a requirement so am happy, but this is quite an interesting topic of discussion.

As i said the theory seems to be sound, what alternatives would be suitable? seems to me the main requirement would be that it's in a pressurised can.

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Originally Posted by tekbow

most chemical solutions have to have a small percentage of water don't they?

Not arguing the point or anything, it worked for me and have used it in other applications where unseizing, derusting etc was a requirement so am happy, but this is quite an interesting topic of discussion.

As i said the theory seems to be sound, what alternatives would be suitable? seems to me the main requirement would be that it's in a pressurised can.

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Many guys use dental floss to clean around the pivot. I would think the best alternative would be canned air or a compressor with a dryer.

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Originally Posted by HarleyFXST

Many guys use dental floss to clean around the pivot. I would think the best alternative would be canned air or a compressor with a dryer.

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yup, works for me :)

i did the dental floss thing, still didn't degunk it fully. lack of practice probably.

Q-tips work decently.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Str8Shooter

The reason WD-40 is not recommended to clean firearms is that it will promote rust. May want to rethink that idea...

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I've used WD-40 in the "Process" of cleaning my firearms, since age 18 or so. I buy it in the gallon can at Home Depot and pour it into a pump spray bottle, much cheaper, lasts longer. I use it as a "flush" to rid residue, grime. Much like the OP did on his razor. I "always" finish with a quality oil/lubricant. I have 12 AR magazines that my little brother gave me, used in various deployments and in rough condition. I will flush and scrub them with WD-40 first.

For me Wd-40 has been a wonder fluid with many uses. You just have to be aware of it's properties/limitations.

Yeah, you want to reoil after using WD 40.

You may need to peen down the pins. If there was rust in that area that was cleaned out they wont be tight again till you do. The rust expands and pushes the scales apart (I think), then there is missing metal when the rust is removed.

Try some "Clippercide" spray. Barbers use it and so do I.....

Jerry

so we're saying WD40 is fine as long as we follow up with something else? Pete, good point on the pins, will do that.

I know there's the dental floss, qtips etc, but what i found with this method was that is quick, effective with no fiddling around which is why i like it.

Don't know about celluloid, but I would be carefull using WD40 or any oil based product on scales made from natural materials (Bone,Horn,Ivory) Know for a fact it will discolor Ivory scales.JMO

noted, fortunately i don't have any bone or ivory, seems to be ok with wood though, blasted the pivot clean a few months back an no adverse effects.

Well, i do have one set of bone scales, unfortunately they didn't survive the unpinning..

Does anyone have any thoughts about using Ballistol instead if WD40?? I know that it's widely used in Europe.

Just wondering!

Hey Guys,
I use a nylon bristle brush that is used for cleaning out pipe stems. They are really small, like a pipe cleaner but you can clean it and there is no cotton to leave behind. You can pick them up at any pipe shop. they work really well for me.

Keith

You could try Kroil. It does come in a compressed can. Breaks nearly and thing frozen or rusty loose.

Water displacers will, over time, absorb enough moisture to dump it all on to the steel. Like too much heet in a car gas tank. I have read that LPS has lithium grease in it which protects the metal longer. Worked well on machine tools where we used water bases spray coolants.