Polishing Micarta

I'm not sure if this is an issue with how it was made or how it was finished. Since I both made it and tried to finish it I'll welcome info on both.

This is black paper micarta. Made with polyester resin. This is the third set of scales that has been made. These were from the third batch. Each batch was done the same way. Resin/paper repeat then clamp.

These were sanded to 2000. Then buffed. I tried the normal red rouge and a blue . THe blue seemed to work better. Now granted it gets shiny but you can see the non uniform finish on them. Is this an air bubble thing? Or is this just how it goes with micarta.

Either way I won't be using the polyester resin anymore, ordered some glaze coat and will try that. I'm hoping that gives better results.

Any tips here would be great.

Thanks much
Bruce
Attachment 83217

Nice scale shape. I will be watching this as well, because I'm curious why you didn't get uniformity. I've only made one batch of micarta, and the fabric didn't soak up enough epoxy, so it came out rough. Interested to see what some more experienced members have to say.

I've never done self-made micarta, so can't comment on that...

I REALLY like those scales. The imperfections give them character and make them seem aged.

Like I said, I've made maybe 6 batches by now, white and black. I am not stingy with the resin either. The white seemed very dryish.

The process is so simple that I'm not sure where things went wrong. The only thing I can add to this is that where I made it the ambient temp was well below 70. From what I read that should not matter except when it comes to drying time.

I'll be curious also to see what people have to say. All the research I've done points to it "should" polish to a nice high shine.

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Originally Posted by HNSB

I've never done self-made micarta, so can't comment on that...

I REALLY like those scales. The imperfections give them character and make them seem aged.

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Thank you. I'm not unhappy with how it looks, I'm unhappy with it not meeting my expectation and I don't know why. The why part is killing me. :)

Micarta can be tough to work with in my experience. I have a Martin guitar with micarta fretboard, nut, saddle and bridge. I liked it so much that I picked up a few samples of micarta to carve into nuts and saddles. It was really, really hard to do. I can do it with bone blanks just fine, but for some reason I just couldn't get a nice uniform finish on the parts I made from micarta. I don't know how Martin did it. It's a great material though if you can work it.

I've seen G10 that is mirror finished and I know that micarta is not exactly the same but still. I've seen some scales that claim to be micarta that are mirror so I know its possible.

I'm really hoping that the answer is just use a clear epoxy to make it and all your problems go away.

I wonder if it is? What color was your resin?

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Originally Posted by medicevans

I wonder if it is? What color was your resin?

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Well it was your basic bondo fiberglass kit.The resin itself was an off white. yellowish.

I can't comment on making them but I can surely tell you how I finish them. I hand sand them all the way to 2500 grit sandpaper (taking my sweet time between grits) and sometimes depending the Micarta finish on my buffer with white rouge. I have never used a clear resin or other coating over my Micarta or g10 for that matter. Been doing this for years with great success.

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Originally Posted by Maximilian

I can't comment on making them but I can surely tell you how I finish them. I hand sand them all the way to 2500 grit sandpaper (taking my sweet time between grits) and sometimes depending the Micarta finish on my buffer with white rouge. I have never used a clear resin or other coating over my Micarta or g10 for that matter.

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That's what I thought. Mine almost seems to have air bubbles.. I went to 2000 and still no smooth surface. Hm. thanks for the input.

Why not just buy commercially made micarta? It is readily available from many of the knife making suppliers as well as from places like MSC.

The commercially made micartas are laminated under pressure. Not just clamping pressure but atmospheric pressure which forces the resins into the linen, paper, canvas or whatever is used for a base matrix. Also, commercial micartas are made using phenolic resins which are extremely hard and durable and take a much better polish than any polyester or epoxy resin is going to (mostly because they are much harder when cured out).

To be honest if your just gluing layers of paper together with fiberglass repair resin your not making micarta. Your making "micarta shaped objects" (to coin a concept from this forum).

If you consider the cost of your materials, your time and the quality of the finished product, your going to be money ahead to go ahead and buck up a few dollars for a small sheet of micarta from one of the knife supplies. You will find it is much easier to work with, much easier to finish and you will have a much nicer finished product that will be much stronger and last much longer.

JMHO,

Ray

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Originally Posted by RayCover

Why not just buy commercially made micarta? It is readily available from many of the knife making suppliers as well as from places like MSC.

The commercially made micartas are laminated under pressure. Not just clamping pressure but atmospheric pressure which forces the resins into the linen, paper, canvas or whatever is used for a base matrix. Also, commercial micartas are made using phenolic resins which are extremely hard and durable and take a much better polish than any polyester or epoxy resin is going to (mostly because they are much harder when cured out).

To be honest if your just gluing layers of paper together with fiberglass repair resin your not making micarta. Your making "micarta shaped objects" (to coin a concept from this forum).

If you consider the cost of your materials, your time and the quality of the finished product, your going to be money ahead to go ahead and buck up a few dollars for a small sheet of micarta from one of the knife supplies. You will find it is much easier to work with, much easier to finish and you will have a much nicer finished product that will be much stronger and last much longer.

JMHO,

Ray

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Ray,
Hey if it comes down to that great. But honestly that will be my last step.

It's not the cost that bugs me. Even though I can get enough materials to make a ton of it for what I could buy it premade for. Frankly I just like the thought of making the material I'm going to use.

Not only that but the freedom to experiement with matierials etc.

I think at this point I'm going to try a different resin. After that we'll see. I just thought that there might be someone that has made their own successfully.

Hey who knows, maybe I'll be buying it sooner than later.

Bruce

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Originally Posted by theeditor

Ray,
Hey if it comes down to that great. But honestly that will be my last step.

It's not the cost that bugs me. Even though I can get enough materials to make a ton of it for what I could buy it premade for. Frankly I just like the thought of making the material I'm going to use.

Not only that but the freedom to experiement with matierials etc.

I think at this point I'm going to try a different resin. After that we'll see. I just thought that there might be someone that has made their own successfully.

Hey who knows, maybe I'll be buying it sooner than later.

Bruce

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I certianly understand that. It just seemed to me to be a lot of hassle to go through when you can get a 1/8" x12" x5" sheet from Masecraft for $10 + shipping. Even if you only get 6 pairs out fo a sheet thats still probably less than $3 a pair shipping included...and the penalics will be much better than the polys or epoxies.

SInce it is the porocess that is flipping your switch here have you thought about using a penalic resin? There is a penalic resin out there that a lot of boatbuilders and bowyers use called Urac 185. Its natural color is brown but I am cerain that there is a way to dye the resin various colors. I would recomend doing a google search for a supplier of Urac-185 or phenalic resin and see if you can find a product that you can dye. Penalic will give you a much harder,stronger, easier to polish finished product.

Also If you can come up with a way to put this in a pressur pot while its clamped and setting up that will help push any air bubbles out. A paint pot or even a pressure cooker will work. Put a fitting on it so you can add a little pressur with your compressor. Just don't overshoot the manufacturers recomended pressures.

Sometime back there was a how to video on making Micarta. The guy used epoxy table top finish, which is available at home centers. He used two wood blocks, top and bottom, waxed paper release, and clamps to hold the two wood blocks together. I don't know if his results were better than yours, but he was using a different liquid. Good luck and keep us DIY types informed about results.

When I made micarta I used System 3 Mirror Coat epoxy. Worked well and sanded to high gloss. Never made paper micarta so I can't help much with the air bubble thing. I used denim for one set and silk handkerchiefs for the other. Had no problem with those materials.

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Originally Posted by skipnord

Sometime back there was a how to video on making Micarta. The guy used epoxy table top finish, which is available at home centers. He used two wood blocks, top and bottom, waxed paper release, and clamps to hold the two wood blocks together. I don't know if his results were better than yours, but he was using a different liquid. Good luck and keep us DIY types informed about results.

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I shall. It's already ordered and I should have it by wednesday. I'm using the same method ( I saw that video) so we shall see. I think if my working time with the new liquid is longer I'll soak the paper for a bit beforehand.

It looks like air bubbles to me also. I think for the shop made micarta, if finish is unsatisfactory as is, I would clear coat with the same epoxy you have. Not only will the clear fill the small pockets, but assist the shine if that is the goal.

If don't want the slight cavities to show under the epoxy, add some pigment. It may lend an interesting look under clear though.

I had this problem my first couple of tries using clear epoxy. I am now using a quicky setting clear epoxy (5 minute working time), I dilute the epoxy with a little Acetone. This process prolongs the working time (without adding to curing time), and allows for the paper to absord the epoxy better. -- Thicker snotty epoxy will not soak into the paper, rather it sits on top of the surface.

Be generous with the epoxy!! As you use it, whatever doesnt stay between the paper be sure to clean up before you clamp. This will help prevent the paper from sliding around while to tighten the clamps.

Layer the epoxy first, then paper. Epoxy over the paper that you just laid down, layer paper again, followed by epoxy. Continue until you reach desired thickness. I usually go for 3/16" or 1/4" so that I can sand on both side to be sure they are flat.

I have had no problems with my micarta taking a high glossy polish after 2000 grit sanding.