Like advice on scale material

I have a razor that I would like to make scales for. I found a few options that might work and would like some advice on their suitability. I am attempting my first scales so would like to know how easy the materials are to work with and durability and what would be good to finish them with. How thick of material do I need to start with?

Possibilities:

Project Woods - Lee Valley Tools - Woodworking Tools, Gardening Tools, Hardware Supplies
Exotic woods:
All blanks measure 3/4" square by 6" long
A. Amboyna Burl
B. Birdseye Maple
C. Bocote
D. Chechen
E. Cocobolo
F. African Ebony
G. Honduras Rosewood
H. Olivewood
J. Padauk
K. Pink Ivory
L. Purpleheart
M. Tulipwood
N. Zebrawood
O. Ziricote

Claro Walnut Pepper Mill Blanks

Wood : Bass - PM Hobbycraft
Basswood

I was wandering through a Lee Valley store yesterday, looking at the hardwood blanks, wondering the same thing you are . . . <g>

_Not_ basswood -- too soft, and (probably) no water resistance. 3/4" square is too small for making a set of scales. I just checked a Henckels razor; you'd need a 1"-wide blank to match its scales.

Lee Valley has larger sheets of hardwood, 1/8" - 1/4" thick, several inches wide, more than a foot long. That would be better stock to use.

. Charles

No more than 1/8" unless you're scaling a MONSTER chopper.

In terms of resistance to a wet environment, Lignum Vitae is unparalleled and still used in some large vessels as the propeller shaft bearing. The others are more a matter of aesthetics - what turns you on to look at.

I'd need to defer to the pros on finishes. 'Done super glue and Tung Oil. I like both. Anything less than 10-20yrs is hardly a test of their relative toughness or endurance of the wood for a razor.

Wood is definitely easier to work than antler, so it makes a good material with which to learn, and its pleasing to the eye. I like bone and horn more, but haven't used them yet.

If I were to be told I have to pick one wood and one wood only for making scales it would be Lignum (either one) and a Teak Oil finish...

Personally I like "Bling" which is exactly why I like the flashy acrylics for my scales, they are easy to work and are pretty tough.

G-10 - Micarta - Mikume Gami & Carbon Fiber are near impervious to water and wear so are excellent materials but a bit harder to work

Naturals - Ivory, Bone, Hone, Antler etc: are time proved, in fact I just did Vintage restores on two razors that were both over 200 years old and saved the old horn scales, that is pretty impressive :)

Of your list, I would say the Olivewood, it is pretty, it is easy to work, has good water resistance naturally, and is really easy to finish..

Quote:

3/4" square is too small for making a set of scales. I just checked a Henckels razor; you'd need a 1"-wide blank to match its scales.

The razor I'm using is 5/8 half hollow. The scales I took off are curved and start at 11/16" at the wedge and tapers to about 3/8" at the pivot.

Quote:

Lee Valley has larger sheets of hardwood, 1/8" - 1/4" thick, several inches wide, more than a foot long. That would be better stock to use.

I couldn't find anything else for wood on Lee Valley's site, but I haven't talked to them yet. I am in Canada so there may be a difference. I found the woods under woodworking > project supplies > project woods.

I think I will try the Olive Wood. What would be a good choice for finish. I was looking at Lee Valley and they have a few that I was thinking of. I need help i choosing something that will give good results and not too involved. Appreciate any directions in use.
Finishes - Lee Valley Tools - Woodworking Tools, Gardening Tools, Hardware Supplies
OIl Finishes
Tried & True™ Traditional Finishes:

Original Wood Finish
Dubbed a "true general-purpose finish", the Original Wood Finish formula is a highly refined polymerized linseed oil with pure beeswax as an additive.

Danish Oil
The Danish Oil is pure polymerized linseed oil with no additives

Varnish Oil
The Varnish Oil is a combination of highly refined polymerized linseed oil and natural-resin varnish (modified pine sap).

Danish Oils:
B. The clear Marine Teakwood finish is suitable for above waterline marine applications.

Walnut Oil

I also had a question about wedges. I see some razors with the wedge tapered and some flat. What would be the reason for this; what is the better way to go?

Thanks

When using woods for anything subjected to water I tend to use high oil content woods (lignum,delbergias etc) when taken down to around 1200 grit I find no finish to best other than renwax.you get a nice satin polish that retains a natural look.
One thing you might consider for an out of the box finish is birchwood casey tru-oil,put it on and knock it off over about 15+ coats and you can get a great finish with alot of depth.
Or you can make your own by using artist grade clear linseed oil cut 50/50 with zippo lighter fluid (naptha).
Works very well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by binder

The razor I'm using is 5/8 half hollow. The scales I took off are curved and start at 11/16" at the wedge and tapers to about 3/8" at the pivot.

I couldn't find anything else for wood on Lee Valley's site, but I haven't talked to them yet. I am in Canada so there may be a difference. I found the woods under woodworking > project supplies > project woods.

a) Trace the scales onto a piece of paper, and see if you can fit them inside a 3/4" x 6" box. It'll be tight . . .

b) I was in the Vancouver BC Lee Valley store. They have stuff in the store that isn't in the catalog. A phone call (or visit) to the Calgary store might be productive.

Charles

Quote:

Originally Posted by binder

I think I will try the Olive Wood. What would be a good choice for finish.

I also had a question about wedges. I see some razors with the wedge tapered and some flat. What would be the reason for this; what is the better way to go?

Thanks

Olivewood is a very easy wood to finish it takes just about any of them well, for ease of application look for a "wipe on" type but you can take the finish to any level you want..

Wedges, are a bit of a challenge and the difference between nice and Wow, I hesitate to say between right and wrong because it gets arguments started :)
But honestly I have never taken apart a vintage razor with a non-tapered wedge :p ie: a spacer

At the top of this forum in a red sticky you will find a thread very aptly named, in there you will find tons of info on how to to everything you are asking abaout and even some videos...

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

There are some links about just making wedges and how to do them

I picked up a piece of Olive wood 2" x 2" x 12", so should be good. I have only heard of wood needing to be stabilized on the Net. Is this a concern? Is there something I need to do in order to prevent problems?

For a finish I was thinking of using Danish Oil, True Oil, or Minwax wipe on poly (I think I might be able to get some). How do you apply the finish, I mean do I apply it to one side at a time, because I will have to hold it on something? I was looking at the wiki on holders, but am not sure. Sorry if this is a silly question.

Thanks