Strop Making Supplies

If you want to try building your own strop, here are some sources for parts:

Small amount of leather:
Tandy Leather Factory - Natural Cowhide Leather Strips

Backings:
Poly webbing: Special Polypropylene Webbing 3 inch - from www.ahh.biz
3" Cotton: Tambour Roll Door Tape or Webbing - Kennedy Hardware LLC
Heavy 2" cotton: Heavyweight 2" natural twill tape
3" Heavy Poly: http://www.strapworks.com/Heavyweigh...ene_p/hwp3.htm

Hardware:
misc. hardware: USA Lanyards Wholesale Store - ID Name Badge Holder Lanyard Supplies - usalanyards.com
D's and misc: Metal D-Rings
Cheap D's: Tandy Leather Factory - Solid Dee 2" (5.1 cm) Nickel Plated 10/pk
Large D: Tandy Leather Factory - Rigging Dee Flat Cast 3-1/2" Stainless Steel
Cheap Chicago screws (a little long for most strops): Saddles Tack Horse Supplies - ChickSaddlery.com Chicago Screws - Pack Of 10
Chicago screws: Tandy Leather Factory - Chicago Screws

Tools:
In addition to an exacto knife and a straight edge, you may want to look into a 2mm edge beveler and a slicker.

I'm surprised nobody has replied to this thread. This is very useful information. Thanks for posting!

Great stuff,thx for posting,whats a slicker?

I'm planning on making my own strop so this is very useful information. Thank you for posting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

whats a slicker?

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A slicker is a tool for burnishing the edge of the leather - it helps to close the grain and give it a better finished look. It works really nice if you use gum tragacanth and then go over it with a slicker. If you do that be careful to only get the gum tragacanth on the edge of the leather - any on the top surface will cause a light stain, and more problematic - it will prevent any finish from getting to the leather.

A slicker can be used without gum tragacanth, the leather just won't get quite as smooth. All you have to do is wet the edge of the leather and rub it.
You could of course, just leave the edges rough finished, or lightly burnish with something smooth. The nice thing about a slicker is that it has slots to run the leather in, which helps to prevent it from warping while being burnished. Warping is less likely if you use an edge beveler as well.

What is quality of the leather in the link?
(Smooth? pliable? resistant to moisture? etc.)

E, many thx for posting. 'Have heard a few happy campers w/ your strops, so you're doing something right. The chicago screws really are needed or component replacement is a hassle.
Oregon Leather Co. has been helpful for me also. They stock a moderately wide selection of strap hardware, chicago screws (that have worked pretty well), and, of course, leather. Their horsehide has been belly leather, but I've used it at been very pleased w/ the result.

Again, thank you for posting.

A good post thank you.

Does anyone know where to get swiveling clamps? Like the ones Kanayama and the Illinois Strop Company use.

Have seen them on the bay and somewhere else on here but can't remember wrist the thread was

I'm glad to see this one bumped!
~Richard

I don't have the link anymore sadly, but there is a japanese seller who sells kanayama's and also sells the actual swivels he uses as well separately.
Will try to find the link and post.
Good luck.
found it: Clips are still available separately.
http://yhst-27988581933240.stores.ya...for-razor.html

Thanks Mike, unfortunately out of stock ATM

Surf his other wares and bet you buy sumptin. I know I like my strop (Kanayama#3)and razor case I purchased.
Nod to Phrank for leading me to that link in the first place. :chapeau
Cheers

Indeed a mouth-watering site.

Where do I get a punch for the chicago screws?

Here's another one that sells the snap hooks. Snap Hooks | Buckles, Straps & Rings | Strapworks.com

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kees

Does anyone know where to get swiveling clamps? Like the ones Kanayama and the Illinois Strop Company use.

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Check outhttp://www.buckleguy.com/swivel-snap-hooks/

Cheers

Tandy leather is also a good source for materials and tools.

seen Chicago screws on the bay different sizes brass

Went out to see my buddy, Button and had these little "hackers" thrown together for a song.
Attachment 243911
Attachment 243912
Buddy decided to not use the small bit of 6/7 oz leather.

Two 3" x 30" veg tanned leather strops!

Where did you get the 3" D-rings?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kees

Where did you get the 3" D-rings?

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I got mine at a store called Atwoods Ranch and Home.
They're actually Heavy Duty Anchor Ring and Base Cargo Locs.
Attachment 243923
I would have rather found chrome or stainless, but good luck with that.
You can find Atwoods online.

A 2 inch D ring works fine with a keeper, easily made from a piece of leather.

2 inch D rings are available from Ace Hardware and Tandy Leather.

Here is a template for the keeper, you can sew, glue or use Chicago Screws, also from Tandy.

Or just fold over if your leather is thin enough, (Kangaroo).

Attachment 243933Attachment 243934Attachment 243935Attachment 243936Attachment 243937Attachment 243938Attachment 243939

As a custom holster maker for the past 24-ish years, I have a 'bit' of experience working leather.

9-12oz "Harness" leather would, IMO, be the best thickness and type (quality) for strops. Tandy is a very good supplier and have most any type and size needed. Occasionally, they have 'cut-offs', if you do not want to purchase a double shoulder or side. Single shoulder, most likely will not be larger enough, as towards the edges, the leather gets thinner and is irregular cut.

As for hardware:

"D" rings can be found at a local horse tack store (They are used for belly cinches). IMO, most Chicago screws are really not the best for fastening. I get 99% of my "T" posts and screws from Knifekits.

Here are a few links, that may help:


Screws:
KnifeKits.com™ : Knife & Gun Making Supplies and Tools Mounting Hardware

Slotted posts:
Slotted Post - Stainless Steel - Black Zinc - (1/4 in) - 10 Pk

Eyelets:
Eyelets - #8-10 (1/4) - Black Finish - for .125 KYDEX®/HOLSTEX®


Finish Washers:
Finishing Washers - #8 - Countersunk - (Black Oxide)


As far as tools:

Slicker:
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/prod...-double-groove

Drawing gauge:
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/prod...ool-draw-gauge

Edge Bevelers:
https://www.tandyleather.com/en/prod...-edge-bevelers

Hole punches:
Punch Set - Small - (5/64, 3/32, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 11/64) - (8pc)


Now, are ALL of these tools required? Of course not. Are these the best tool? Of course not. The tools I have in my shop are, anywhere, from 5 to 150yrs old. Some I've made, some I've found, some I've been given. I've bought from retailers, wholesalers, flea markets, pawn shops...just about everyplace. It just depends on how much you want to do it.

One 'pointer', if you will, that I can give: When working with leather, be it cutting, beveling, burnishing, etc. Moist leather works much better and gives a better finish. Take a sponge and dampen the area you'll be working. Dampen...not soak. You just want the leather to turn a touch darker in color. Give it about 30 seconds to soak in...then work the area (cut, skive, bevel, whatever). Dampening the leather prevents the ragged, frayed looking edge.


With all of us 'use to' working around sharp things, we are already aware of how quickly you can cut yourself. Leather, is no different. Other than the fact that you will be using more force to cut than most is use to. And with the nature of leather, some areas may cut quicker than you anticipate. Always keep "booger-hookers" out of the way...just in case!


Hope this helps!

.b;,nnnn n nh +

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

<bump>
Thanks for all this info!

Jerry