7/8 Wade & Butcher wedge blade restore by a noob

This forum is awesome. I joined about a month ago. I know have a bit of a collection and I'm ready to move on to restoring. After reading the SRP forum alittle more and just getting over the fear of destroying such a reputable product I just went for it. I watched Undreams 12 part razor restore on youtube and got excited. Then when he started using his power tools and buffers...i have to admit I was alittle discouraged since I don't have and power tools...yet. So here we go.

STEP 1:
I went to Strauss Auto and bought some 1a) 3M WETORDRY 03021 Grit Assorted Paper Sheets. Grits included in the pack are 220, 400, 800, 1000. 1b) 3M EMORY CLOTH 03008 Assorted Sheets 2 course, 2 medium, 2 fine. Total for the purchase of both was $10.32

Since I'm a noob I guess I will be trying to break it down for those who don't know 'cause all of this is new to me.

STEP 2:
So Here is the W&B that I received already broken apart so I didn't need a Dremel or other method of pin/peen removal. 2a) So on the back there is a some what crude etching of the name "Arch". I'm torn between honoring this previous owner or totally sanding the name off. There is some light rust on the spine and tail but overall I think the blade is in good shape. Remember I'm a noob so I know nothing of what I speak...LOL 2b) The front of the blade shows some dark staining toward the spine and some light rust around the pivot hole and the tail.

STEP 3: I sanded the blade using a course sheet of emory cloth. Oh I forgot to mention that I didn't get lower grit wet dry like 80 or 140 because they didn't have it at Strauss so I made due. So this what an hour and a half of hand sanding with course grit looks like. I sanded the rough spots on the spine, tang and tail in a circular motion like I read in a SPR forum (while watching family guy on Hulu). I sanded the rest with back and forth motions across the lenght of the blade. Underneath the dark areas is some light pitting so I have to keep going. I wrapped the emory cloth around a Chap Stick as I sanded and used the rounded edge of the cap almost like you would an eraser. Sorry the photos are not the best.

NEXT STEPS: Keep sanding with the course grain until i get the pits out. I have to decide on the legacy of "Arch" but I think I will just keep sanding the name out.

WHAT I LEARNED SO FAR:
Don't be afraid to try. There is way more than enough info on this forum to get started. Pitted areas are a pain in the butt. I will now try to avoid purchasing razors with rust on them. I know this is impossible but after sanding for 1 1/2 hours I am starting to feel a certain loathing for it...LOL Lastly always respect a man named "Arch" and never give up.

Thanks

C.M.P.Attachment 92100Attachment 92101Attachment 92102

I'm Back. It's been a while since I posted on my progress. I've done about 12 hours of hand sanding so far. I had to remove some rust, devil's spit and the "Arch" etching on the back of the blade.

So I used both coarse grade Emory cloth pieces (1b) which I am going to assume were around 80 grit to remove the Arch etching, rust, oxidation and dark spots. This took up most of my time. I'm going to say about 9 hours. Then I moved on to the medium Emory cloth (1b). I used one whole piece to take out the previous scratches. I think the med is about 100-140 grit

Things are moving alot more quickly now.

One thing to note: 3M EMORY CLOTH IS NOT A WET/DRY SAND PAPER.
As soon as I wet it, it started to deteriorate. So just be aware.

So from the medium Emory cloth I wanted to move onto a more precise numbering system for the sand paper but i knew from feeling the Emory cloth and 220 3M wet/dry sandpaper(1a) that that would be too far of a leap. SO I went and bought some 3M 180 grit sand paper (4a) from Autozone for $5.49 and continued to sand with that next. After 180 grit, I went to the 3M 220 wet/dry. Then 400 from the same assorted pack (1a)

The blade is starting to look good and you can see a bit of a reflection in the satiny finish. I was curious to see what it would look like with a bit of Mother's polish on it. Mother's is referred to alot (from forums that I have read) as a good brand for metal polish. I picked up some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish (5a) for $9.59, some Autozone Diaper Soft Polishing cloths (5b) for $4.49 and an assortment of 1000, 1500, 2000 and 2500 from 3M for $5.49(4b) The higher end grit is for when I finish up the 800 grit from the first pack(1a).

So this round I spent $24.38

NEXT STEPS: Keep sanding with the 400 grit until i get all the scratches out. Move up to 800 then 1000 grit. Then start sketching/designing a new set of scales.

WHAT I LEARNED SO FAR:
No matter how long and hard you sand some pitting is never going to come out. When I felt like i wasn't getting anywhere with this project I kept sanding anyway. Switch directions when you sand really makes a difference

CHECK MY PICS BELOW. The last page shows the progression from
a) how i received it in the mail
b) after some coarse grit Emory cloth sanding
c) coarse Emory, Medium Emory, 180 grit, 220-400 wet/dry + Mothers polish
Thanks

Cheetah Meat

One rule I always remember when sanding anything is 'when you think you are done, sand it some more.' I hate sanding, but I love it too for the satisfaction you get when it's done.