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I'm in the process of grinding a razor from an old hand file for fun. I wish to add a double stabilizer to it.
Is a double stabilizer basically a larger radius, compared to the blades hollow radius?
If I put the stabilizers larger radius further out from the blades hollow radius, would that give the same linear tangent contact points with the blade hollow (be it the edge of spine & razors edge)?
Thanks so much,
Darl
Im not quite sure what you mean by larger radius, but if you want a good idea of what a double shoulder should look like then study pics of respected brands with NOS blades so you can mimic the design.
Basically you would have three levels, the hollow of the blade, the stabilizer, then the spine/tang.
I thought the stabilizer radius would have to be bigger then the actual blade hollow radius, since its covering the same territory so to speak from spine to edge. At least that what it looks like to my untrained eyes.
The hollow grind on the blade is the shortest radius and the stabilizers are done on a wheel with a larger radius. Your original thought was correct. Grind carefully, both to ensure that the stabilizer portion does not interfere with honing later and that portion of the edge will heat up quickly when removing material.
Listen to Mike, he's done it before. I am just going off of what I have seen.
Agreed. I looked at several razors and since the stabilizer grind does not go all the way to the edge and is to add stability, naturally, it must be ground with a larger stone. Seemingly from a bit lower apex as the smaller stone used to grind the blade? In addition, there is probably a long lost formula based on blade width and type of grind to determine stone sizes for grinding/stabilizers, but I suppose you will have to rewrite it! Yeah, thats it.
Seriously, just an observation based on Mike Blue's words and looking at some razors.
Good Luck! :gl:
Remember that the double stabilizer is usually used on a razor with a bi-concave ( German ) grind. Usually a full hollow or half hollow grind.
The single concave, wedge, 1/4 hollow, grind does not need them.
was about to post that, but randy's faster!
Thanks for the tip guys, but I already ground it in.
I had assumed that the OP was building a concave razor in the beginning.......Hows about some pics? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarkus
As you can see its not completed yet.So far so good the hard part is behind me
Attachment 96604Attachment 96605Attachment 96606Attachment 96607Attachment 96608Attachment 96609Attachment 96610
Remember this is my very first time at this guys.
All done but the finishing!!!
I have to thank Baldy from SOTD he gave me the idea to try this.
The grinding looks excellent! You seem to have a very steady hand :)
It appears that you have a single concave grind on the blade. That is referred to as either a wedge grind or a 1/4 hollow grind.
But,,,you extended the double shoulder all the way to the edge. That will interfere with honing. The bottom of the double shoulder needs to end approx 1/8" above the edge. Look at some pics of new razors to see the transition.
Randy said it all, he is the man, your grinding looks amazing.
Charlie
Very nice work! A steady hand indeed! Looks a factory job! I am thinking the stabilizer should remain to the bottom until the tang is finished and final edge shaping, bevel is determined. Lots of strength down there until then. Looking forward to the results! :rock:
What ever happen to this endeavour?
It got finished, here! http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...ile-razor.html
Damn funky stabilizer! :rofl2:
He was making a couple more(no stabilizers :D). Gotta bug him on that!
Looks very nice! meaty blade for sure!Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
