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Good job. That looks like alot of sanding. I know how that feels. They were alot thicker than I thought they were. As for finishes I leave that up to you cause so far I have only used one type of finish and to each their own. Those are going to look really nice cause they already do.
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Here is the razor I'm going to use Attachment 97695
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That is going to look nice. Shaving with a razor that you restored and made scales for is a nice thing.
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well gents I just applied my first coat of mini wax semi gloss so now I have to wait
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Broke my wedge now I have to make a new one oh bother
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Atleast it was the wedge and not the scales.
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It didn't take long to make a new one
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What material is that it's gorgeous and what finisher did u use
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What is that material and what finisher did u use
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I like the look of those scales. I'd like to know what they were made from too. Almost looks like a curly maple or curly something lol.
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I got the last coat of tung oil to it I'm excited to pin it up
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And also how long does it usually for the tung oil to completely dry
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Tung oil dries in essentially 48 hrs. Then it prefers another 3 days at least to cure. Sometimes, depending on humidity, even longer.
If I'm working on a restore for someone, and I've got to do exotic wood with a tung finish, I'll make the scales before I start buffing the blade. That way they have lots of time to set up. Personally, I'd leave it for a couple days. Then after the cure, go back and buff it. If you don't have a buffer, get a cotton towel and rub as fast as you can!
Did you apply tung straight, or did you burnish? I can't see the grain from the previous photos....is it a loose grain or a tight grain?
Edit: Rosewood has lots of oils in it....for future reference, you can sand it up to 2k and then buff it out with white rouge to get a really nice and smooth finish.
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I'm burnishing actually and can I use mini wax polyurethane semi gloss to seal it
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As above, your best bet in the future with any High oil content wood is just polish it,is better than any other product.
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Teak Oil is a very good choice for dense woods,,, Danish Oil and Tung Oil have their uses also.. (Most Tung Oil "finishes" are not just Tung Oil)
IMHO if it is used for a razor, it should be treated. regardless of the wood, there are many that don't and that is their opinion...
In general: Tighter grain wood, thinner consistency finish, bigger grained wood, thicker consistency finish, this is just a guide though...
You might want to get in the habit now of an Acetone wipedown before starting the finshing process, it really helps with many woods, and hasn't hurt any yet..
Getting a finish and waterproofing that you feel comfortable with takes time, as each new type of wood is a new challenge...
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Thanks glen I appreciate ur advice I need to figure out what would be a good sealer for the type of wood I have
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I goto the Teak Oil for the dense oily woods, Which most Rosewoods are.. I have not used "Asian Rosewood" myself so as stated above you have too decide the wood is in your hands...
Info
South East Asian Rosewood
Dalbergia Bariensis
Few woods compare with Brazilian Rosewood as nicely as this one and it’s superb density has led many to claim that it is superior. Our sets feature tight grain, even color and all sets exhibit an extremely lively, sonorous tap tone. The color ranges from a warm brick-red (reminiscent of Honduran Rosewood) to an attractive rust-brown color. Less porous than most Rosewoods, it finishes nicely and is not difficult to bend for such a dense wood.
So to me that sounds like the other Rosewoods
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Well crap they broke I broke my scales very upsetting but what can u do I'll have to start over
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I know how that feels, but look at it as a learning experience. That way you might not feel so bad.
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That sucks,as above you will learn alot next time around,At least your working with a renewable resource.