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My questions are what are people using to shape and polish lead wedges whether they be vintage or new? I know lead is pretty soft and sanding has a tendency to "spread" the lead around. With wood scales it can push the lead into the grain of the wood. Not sure if a solvent would take the lead out or what. Any techniques or info would be appreciated. Hopefully this all makes sense cause it usually makes sense in my head, but on paper looks like a jumble of words.
What I have done with lead is to burnish it instead of sanding,scrape it with a single edge razor blade to size, than smooth it with a hard pce of steel.
Thanks will try that looking for all the info I can get cause just looking at these wedges aren't getting anything done.
I just replace them with aluminium 'cause I don't like lead in my environment and it polishes up really nicely too
I would have to agree with Havachat on this one. Handling lead or working with it can cause alot of issues if exposed over a period of time. Not to mention dragging it into the house and exposing your family. There has to be a better alternative. Lead free solder?
+1 for Aluminium - works well and the weight difference is negligible.
I've been working with lead for years. It's safe as long as you take some simple precautions...
In a solid chunk there's virtually no danger, as long as you don't eat it. I'm comfortable enough to let my kids handle ingots and molded bullets (though I do get their lead levels checked at their yearly checkups... FWIW, they have always been in the normal range).
The danger comes from lead dust and particulates.
Wear gloves and respiratory protection if you do any sanding. Clean your work area with dishwashing liquid for an electric dishwasher (not regular dish soap) when you are finished. Always wash your hands afterwards, and don't eat or drink anything while sanding lead.
If for some reason you are doing any smelting, do it in a very well ventilated area.
Just a bit of trivia - as someone who casts bullets, and reloads cartridges I have done a fair amount of reading on this... To a bullet caster, the largest danger of lead exposure comes not from handling lead ingots, smelting, molding, or sizing bullets - it's actually from lead residue from the primers of unloaded brass, which comtaminates the tumbling media in a vibratory tumbler. If you reload at all (whether cast or not) ALWAYS wash your hands well after handling brass out of the tumbler.
The few lead wedges that I have made (lead, tin, antimony mix) , I just hammered the lead to a wedge shape and then sanded to final shape. I have not had problems with scale contamination, but IIRC I've only done it with horn, and not woods. I like the idea of burnishing to a finish.
I have a chunk of, but have not tried working with, a bismuth-tin alloy solder that's extremely close in weight and appearance to lead, but is non-toxic. It ought to be an excellent replacement for folks really paranoid about lead.
And while it is technically radioactive, the half-life is over a billion times longer than the age of the universe.
Also, if you've ever had pepto-bismol, you've drank bismuth (or chewed tablets of).
As an added bonus, it doesn't tarnish nearly as quickly as lead and will remain shiny for a while.
Bar be qued beef causes cancer.
So does breathing, eating, drinking, sex ........ the list goes on.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Does this stop us?
No-one gets out of life alive anyway - so enjoy everything in moderation.
Agree 100%,I try not to worry about such things,the mercury in my tooth fillings do's lay heavy on my mind at times tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by Havachat45
The fact that there are more cancer causing nitrates in a 6 pack of beer than in a lb of bacon is also a concern.
The hell with it all,I need a cigarette.:))
I have had luck casting them in cutouts on a piece of wood. After only minmal shaping is required, I start with a flat body work type hammer and finish with a little bit of sanding.