First attempt at scales - advice needed

Hi guys this will be my first attemp at making a set of razor scales so I figured I would ask for some advice to make sure i get a good start.

So I have decided that oak is going to be my material of choice and depending on my mood the spacer is either going to be clear acrylic, lead or another piece of oak.

Now here comes the questions :)

I'm looking to finish them as natural as possible to show off the oaks pattern, so I figured I would use a clear gloss waterproof varnish, I've picked up a small tin of varnish from my local DIY store that is designed for exterior doors, fences, pretty much anything that is wood that will be used outdoors and needs weather protection, on this basis am I on the right track for finishing the scales?. My brother in law suggested I use a wax he has that just rubs into the wood to enhance the grain but I'm worries this might not be waterproof enough for something used in the bathroom, whilst for the items he finishes that get the occasional splash it should be fine? Am I wrong on this?

With regards to the wedge is there a specific size thickness it needs to be on one end etc ? as two of my razors have quite thick wedges but I also have one that has a lead wedge that is extremely thin on one side, I'm talking around 1 - 2mm.

And finally I've attached some drawings that I've done for potential scale ideas, can anyone see any problems with them specifically the wedge pin end on some of them as I get the feeling they might be a little thin and may crack etc?

Any feedback would be appreciated as I don't want to go through the process of making a nice set of scales only to stuff them up when it comes to the finish or the wedge etc.

Attachment 98643

I use teak oil alot as it bring out the grain of the wood and will add some protection and it is pretty easy to use. In fact I am putting the finishing touches on a set of scales that I used teak oil to bring out the grain and Helmsman Spar Urethane. This is the first time using the Helmsman, but so far so good. Waiting for it to dry now. Was will work as well as alot of others. I don't think a razor should get that wet in the bathroom unless your setting the whole thing in a sink full of water and leaving it there. As for the wedges I usually make them tapered and the thickest part is usually as thick as the razor where I want it to sit in the scales. The wedge doesn't have to taper alot just enough to allow the scales to flex when opening and closing the razor. The designs look nice I don't see anything wrong with them. There is alot of useful information in this forum that you could find. Make sure your scales aren't too thick as it makes it harder to flex. Mine I usually make around 2.5-3 mm thick. Some like them thicker, some thinner. Everyone has there preference and once you figure out what you like you will know what to go with. It is all about learning and experimenting till you find what you like.

Oak is a great starting point. It's pretty easy to manipulate, and pretty forgiving.

In terms of your wedge - the general rule of thumb is that the wedge begins at about 1/2 the width of the spine. Then you taper the other side. The scales should be thin enough to bow, but not crack. I would suggest that 1/8" wood scales with very rounded corners and edges would be about right. When the edges are not rounded properly, the scales end up looking like hunks of wood on a razor. Believe me - I did a whole bunch before I clued in!! :D:aargh:

For finishing - you have two types. Those that cure ON the wood, and those that cure IN the wood. IN wood cures are the oils that absorb - ie Tung or Teak or Walnut or Danish oils. It's best to apply wash coats of these first, to help with penetration. A good wash coat is 50/50 oil and thinner. Then you can apply regular coats.

ON wood cures - ie CA (crazy glue) finish. Some guys like 'em, some don't. I'm not a huge fan because they feel like plastic. I like wood to feel like wood - so I use oil finishes mostly.

Your designs are good, and the pin placement in the wedge end looks accurate.

One last thing - you WILL flub a whole bunch of sets of scales - 'cause thats how you learn best what works and what doesn't. :D Just have fun doing it, and then the flub will be a learning experience - it'll never be a complete loss. A loss of material, yes, but a gain in knowledge.

Keep us posted!

Any of your designs will work fine,have fun with the project.
Whilst on the subject,have always wondered why so many scale makers get fixated with using wood other than the obvious.
Is cheap, easy to work,readily available,some are drop dead beautifull for sure,but wood is not a good substrate for wet invironments,same go's for brush handles.
How many high end razor makers in the past used wood? (not many I think)
Why did they use use Bone,Horn, Ivory, celluloid, bakalite, plastic (perhaps because they are water resistant?)
Am questioning the use of wood for scales,the practicality of wood (non stabilized/plastisized),just curious.

I am with Maxi that I like wood to feel like wood. I like to be able to feel the grain if I'm using wood.